Haha, lets hope not. The only whistling I want is the turbo.

 

Nice stuff dude.

 

It wouldn't cause whistling, it would damp out certain frequencies of resonance, which may or may not be beneficial for spool up. (I'm assuming that if the wastegate is shut, it's because the turbo isn't spooled YET)

 

Just got the turbo brace fabbed up.

 

that looks damn nice Where did you get those hard fuellines from?

 

He probably made them. What trade are you in? I know the fitters teach tube bending and welding in their apprenticeship.

 

Yeah, all the stuff is custom made by myself. But if your talking about material alone, I get all my lines and fitting from Summit Racing.

I'm just in college right now. I've just always enjoyed working on cars and welding.

 

Looking good!!!

 

Why did you use bolts on the slip fittings instead of springs? I don't think the last piece of the brace that is parallel with the top of the turbo is necessary.

 

???

 

I really appreciate this comment Brian.

From my understanding of what SPD told me, springs generally work fine for NA applications where only a regular merge collector is used and less heat is there. However, bolts help seal the DOUBLE merge collector used for turbo applications where there is obviously more pressure involved. Also, turbo applications' high heat weakens the springs and they will tend to loosen up/break making the merge collector not seal as well.

Maybe your right, but I wanted to try and balance the turbo's weight left to right and exhaust housing to compressor.

 

Your brace is fine. I would've done the same.

 

just curious were you got the tubing to make the manifold and what kind of tubing this is

 

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/
SS304 16 gauge

Everything else is either from Burns Stainless or SPD Exhaust

 

limbar85, Beautiful welding and fabrication.

A couple of observations/questions.

Should you have installed the pipe's slip-joint in the opposite direction so it would also work as an anti-reversion devise?

And that idler pulley, what is it used for? It appears that you are going to turn your water pump backwards.

Again, nice work,
Barry

 

I'm not sure exactly what you mean? But maybe you don't realize this is a double slip merge collector? Basically, there is a tube on the inside and a slip on the outside of the merge collector.

The FD pump operates by turning backwards. Normally, FD owners delete the air pump so there is little belt contact left on the water pump allowing for slipping at high rpm's. Several solutions, some good, some bad. Many people just over tighten the alternator and put a lot of pressure on the stat bearings because it pulls up on the main hub - bad. Another option is to just buy over drive pulleys so there is more contact area on the water pump pulley - good and bad. Last and probably best option is to put a idler (mine is from Pineapple Racing) on there so there is roughly 50% contact on the pulley instead of say 10% without. There shouldn't be any slip or excessive load on any parts with this setup.

 

I was also confused thinking that you were using your cast iron RE waterpump, when actually it was a REW unit painted black.

I wanted to use the RE pump on mine because it has a better designed impeller, and was about to ask which water pump housing you were running.

I ended up using the Mazmart REW pump.

Again, nice work,
Barry

 

Are you going to vent the dump to atmo or tie it back into the down pipe? Nice work. Can you build me one for an FD :-)

 

I haven't decided what I want to do yet. Most likely, it will be an open vent, but I plan on doing some research to thoroughly cover the pros/cons.

Drive you car up; I have enough mandrel bends to make about 2 more manifolds like this

 

Correct. I've seen this tested on a REW in a superflow test cell. The longer the manifold the slower the response, also the power was down overall. In the end nothing could beat the HKS Vband manifold for response and power, its also the shortest.
Its always nice to see good fab work though.

 

Although I believe the test to be perfectly valid, I think there are too many variables to define that as an overall statement in all cases. There are many pro's and con's to runners being short and long. I do believe this manifold will still give me better response vs a short runner system. Many tuners on here will validate this through dyno experience. However, response isn't my only goal. I'm also shooting for balanced back pressure. Something closer to a 1:1 ratio will help my efficiency, lower egt's, response, etc.

I do understand where everyone is coming from though. One visual picture I heard one time is: say you have a long garden hose and you are pretending you're a fireman. You have the nozzle shooting full blast and you suddenly cut the water source. What happens? The water continues to flow out for a while because there is still flow/pressure. Now imagine if you have a 1 ft hose and do the same thing. Once the water source is cut, water flow out of the nozzle will just as fast stop.

 

Looking great dude, keep us updated

 

But the the longer the hose, the more pressure drop there is, and the less overall flow, and that's what counts when you are pumping gases. Pressure drops is what kills performance and power.
In regard to the testing, it was done for a high profile track car, anything that could have produced any kind of performance edges was tested and tried. It was thought that the manifold was tunable to some degree as you think to achieve some scavenging and or ram effect, but the 13b with a turbine on it just didn't respond to it. Bigger/smaller tubing was tried, different flange collector lengths and on and on and on. Much piping was wasted to find out the best was a store bought out of the boxer, which was initially dismissed as just being the cheapest to produce. There is some tuning to be found in turbine headers, but it has more to do with bringing the pulses into phase on multi piston motors than adjusting length.

 

Who knows? All I know is this setup will do plenty for me and I'm happy with it

 

Weather it's better or not, that thing looks cool as hell. I'm sure with your perfecting the bends, u can con the 4" down pipe down through there with no problem