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Raised the boost slightly and took the car on a 400 mile trip with no issues. Even fully heat soaked the car performed great and the numbers all looked as expected. I also now have the efan controlled through the ecu (no longer using the basic probe in the radiator). I can now actually keep a tight temperature range which is nice.
Hopefully things keep going smooth...about 8 or 9k miles on the motor now
I have taken the car now to 16.5psi max with my newly installed boost controller! It is ziptied in case the screws from the rear back out don't worry not fully ghetto mounted. I did have to add a plastic spacer to avoid heat travel through the thermostat mount but other than that it's worked great. I have it plugged into an available dpo on the haltech harness and it worked no problem.
What didn't work without a problem was the oil leak I had at the oil cooler. I took out the thermostat as I had a small slow leak from the area there. Come to find out, after changing the crush washer a few times and realizing it was still leaking, the landing was cracked (apparently common with fc oil coolers).
I have decided to remove the thermostat, plug the bypass hole, and have a cap welded over the thermostat bung.
I am now waiting on some 10an hose to redo some old oil lines and then will be back on the road and ready for a hot summer. My oil cooler has its own thermostatic fan that I can use to control the temps. My only concern is startup oil pressure but we will see. At least no concern of a failing bypass valve and cooked oil.
a good remote bypass (Improved Racing brand etc.) is much better, better still with an oil filter mount having much easier access and then get rid of all that junk on the rear iron pedestal.
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Car is running great. I have noticed that since removing the oil cooler bypass my thermostatic fans actually cycle. Before the car would get up to temp and then the fans would just just stay running 24/7. Now without making any changes to the temp controller it cycles indicating to me that the oil wasn't all actually going through the cooler before.... very happy now with the modification.
a good remote bypass (Improved Racing brand etc.) is much better, better still with an oil filter mount having much easier access and then get rid of all that junk on the rear iron pedestal.
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Teamrx8. I can run a thermostat for the oil cooler fairly easily be interrupting the 10 an lines going too and from the cooler. I do not see any reason to do so at this time but I have my eye on the one listed on the Mazdatrix website..
People underestimate the OE type leak-bypassing. A good remote type is much less prone to this issue, provides better temp range selection options, and then also doesn’t send cold oil at full volume through the entire cooler line loop, but instead bypasses the majority of volume back to the engine for quicker warmup at lower engine loading.
Update:
Had a bit of a scare this evening. Drove the car earlier today and I noticed it ran oddly smooth in the decel ranges. Then when I let it sit at home for a while and hot started it it was only running on the front rotor. Crapola...
Pulled plugs and checked comp and it was fine! 90 PSI in the rear and 108 in the front (hurt the rear about 6k miles ago figuring out the new trigger). I am glad to see the rear has not dropped in compression over this period of time. Even with the recent increase in boost. Plugs have about 6k miles aka last time I checked comp. Probably will be changing them every 3-4 oil changes(1000mi intervals) vs every 6-8.
The more annealed ground strap plug (top) is the rear rotor.
After changing out to a fresh set of ngk 5501s the car is back to normal. 15.5 PSI has been feeling great, I now can tell a noticeable difference in the w/m tank level after a spirited drive and I think my clutch is going to need an upgrade soon.
04-15-24, 08:17 PM
