has any 1 tried a undivided turbo on a divided manfold? im looking towards a s363 undivided 88ar on a divided manifold for my new build on my fc .im trying to keep it between 400-450 pump gas and something close to 500 meth and race gas . i want the s366 but its sort of pointless cause it makes over 500 no problem but has lag idk i dont want too much lag . i want the s363 cause i dont want to make over 500 whp im getting a deal on both of these turbos new for $600 each . just dont know which one togo with my motor is a s4t2 /s5 rear plate /ra super seals 2mm and its gonna have a large street port meth supporting fuel etc...motor isnt dowled or pinned just thicker rear iron thats why im sort of scared of hitting 500whp so i wanna keep it right under that .

 

You can get the s363 with a divided turbine housing. To answer your question, yes you can run a non-divided housing on a divided turbo manifold. Just try to not do it the other way around.

 

thats another $180 for divded on the 63. im on a budget for the turbo atleast .

 

A divided turbine housing will give better response, and faster " spool " on a collected/undivided turbo manifold vs an open volute turbine housing. It will however hurt top end power. You should always radius the center divider on the turbine housing if running this combination.

 

hmm..i dont wanna loose power in between shifts that . i see that the s366 loose alot in between gears . i wouldnt mind putting the divided 66 on but how low on boost am i gonna be to keep it under 500?

 

Running the undivided housing your divided manifold will be fine, you will just notice difference in response, it will feel a bit lazy on boost and between shifts. As far as what Turblown is referring to on running a divided housing on a undivided manifold and cutting a radius on the divider, he means cut it back like a C or D shape length wise on the divider and do not knife edge it. Another simple solution for you would be to make a stainless insert that can be welded on the divider of the manifold that will basically come up and extend the divider into the housing and partially divide the housing. It will pick up some lost response in doing so.

~S~

 

any 1 else think this is ok ..or should i just goto the s366 and get it over with

 

S366 and get over it. You can get the S362 with the 90 compressor and a .91 AR turbine housing. PM me if you want a price I won't hunt for you.

 

turblown sells it for 750 the 62 but i wasnt trying to spend more than 600ish thats why

 

I run a garrett gt4094r with the .95 a/r rear, divided housing on a gato performance manifold that is undivided....i actually feel a better response than i did with my previous t78 turbo undivided. I also knife edged the center, been running it like that for about a year now and havent had any issues, no cracks, and i dont fall off boost between shifts at all. I only shaped the center portion of the middle dividing bar on the housing, leaving the top and bottom curves as thick as possible but giving them a smooth shape.

 

Knife edging the centre will eventually lead to cracking, it also wont allow for a even flow between the two ports, just being clear on that. Is it working sure is it working as best as possible not likely.

 

So air flow hitting a flat surface makes for better flow than a rounded and smooth surface?
Silly me!!

Anyways, its not a "sharp as a knife" edge, its just rounded out around the corners. I seriously doubt it's robbing me of any power.

 

Take it how you will if you wanna be a smart as that's fine, no where did I mention not to radius the edges I just said don't knife edge it, it will crack eventually. Over the years I've learned you have to be very clear and almost dumb things down so people reading it wont interpret it wrong, hence the "just being clear on that". Cutting it back in a C shape will help balance flow in the housing this is proven and tested, actually proven and tested to well over anything anyone on this board will be doing, but you go ahead and take it personal.

~S~