molehill

Some pics of my engine bay... Not finished yet, but IŽll get there soon!!
Any comments are much appreciated! I need all advice I can get...

dag

Damn, superfly clean. Good luck.

jdhuegel1

Looks DAMN good so far!!

rotoboy661

cleeeeeeeeeeeeeean

ghostrx7

Damn, man that looks sick.....

Carl Byck

Looks good so far. One problem I see is your fan set-up. Ordinarily the air from the road speed of the car far exceeds wht the fans can generate. You have effectively blocked off half your radiator, and in doing so, also created a high pressure front in front of the radiator, and therefore the FMIC. You will overheat most likely with this setup. Shame, looks like some nice welds. You might want to add an AST to your cooling system as well. It appears your turbo is oil cooled only, this is fine, but will require at least two stock oil coolers to keep temperatures in line. Also while on the topic of oiling, if you can get the oil outlet closer to vertical the bearings will last longer. Be sure to get plenty of cool air to the oil coolers. What nose are you using? What hotside are you running? Is the engine ported? Any pics of the FMIC, and the balance of the IC piping? As far as fuel, what will you be using the car for? What hotside are you using? I have a T66 .81Q trim T'netics(journal bearing) turbo on mine. Overalll unbelievably clean, maybe someday mine will be that nice. If you search my "widebody" posts on the race, and second gen forums, you will see my car. I'll check back later on the fuel once we get answers to some of the questions. Later for now, Carl Byck (also "in2twins")

javrosario

iTrader: (5)

So you are saying that the FC needs two stock oil coolers for a setup like that? I tho ught the stock FC was plenty big enough.

Evil Aviator

Yes, about half of the radiator is basically useless. The fan shroud needs some stand-off distance so ALL of the radiator (and intercooler) airflow can exit the fan holes. Even 1" would work. The next best thing is to just cut off the current flat plate shroud and attach the fans directly to the radiator with no shroud.

The stock FC's turbo is water-cooled. Without water-cooling, the oil system takes the full brunt of the turbocharger's heat.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

I like the water pump setup. Same one I'm using. What are you doing for turbo coolant feed and return, or is it oil cooled only?

Carl Byck

Further they will need excellent cool air flow, thus my question about what nose he will be using. once he speaks about application we can help in detail with fuel, ie road race, street, drag, dual use. I would also keep going with that intake piping, and create a CAI outside the engine bay. this helps keep things cool as well. A turbo blanket would be another good addition(as opposed to a heat shield). Later, Carl

BDC

Fantastic work.

B

molehill

IŽm a little bit worried about the fans to, but the manufacturer of the rad
told me itŽll be fin, he has made a simular rad/fan combo for a 8sec Supra.
If itŽs not able to keep up with the heat he will build a new rad twice as thick without cost! And IŽll order the flex-a-lite dual 12" fans set-up!
However I will steer the air through the rad with some ducting.
When I ordered the turbo, I ordered it from a really serious dealer with lots of 10s and 9s cars that he has been involved in, and he told me (when I said that I wanted it to be watercooled) that the only thing that the watercooling does is to heat the water since itŽs only in contact with the heat for a short time and the watercooling is for daily drivers only...
IŽm planing to run a custom oilcooler so the oilcooling should not be an issue.
Btw what is an AST?
IŽm running a 1.15 devided Q-trim big-shaft hotside and the bearings are BB, and
the oil outlet will be turned closer to vertical, this is just a IC/exhaust mani fitting test! The engine has a large streetport, dowell pins, hardened gears, 3mm apex, RB street oilpressure regulator, and so on, basicly everything is done to strengthen the engine... a guru two piece eccentric shaft is under consideration!

Hopefully IŽll be able to take some pics of the IC tomorrow! Same company thatŽs done the rad who has build it... and the same guarantee = not sufficient cooling, they build a new one without any cost!

The fuel will be supported by two denso intank fualpumps -> 8 -AN -> fuelfilter -> 2x -AN6 -> Keiths rails -> Bosch 1680cc injectors (thinking of going with 960 or so on the primaries) -> Aeromotive FPR -> 6 -AN return.

I now what car you have Carl, you helped me to contact Attila to order my cf hood, though he seems to have some problems with the boxes your car looks great with the WB and the hood!!

Hope IŽve answered some of your questions?!

- Oscar

molehill

This summer I will be using the stock nose, but next summer thatŽll be changed and maybe the FC2000 bumber will be taking over the job!
I will make sure that the intake will get cold air and nothing else! IŽm thinking off modify the hood and take cold iar that way.
I think IŽll use some "heatwrap" from my work, since I working with diecasting we have some nice heatshield stuff
The car will be used for both road race and drag/strip, ofcourse with diffrent settings!

- Oscar

molehill

Yes the turbo is oil cooled only! I do hope the pump will do the job...
IŽve attached a pic of the waterpump pipes... they are coming on as they lies.

Evil Aviator

I think you should post some pics in the Race Car Tech forum and see what the road race gurus have to say. While that radiator may cool the engine for 8 seconds, I doubt it would do well on the street, and I can almost guarantee you that your engine is going to fry on a road course. I don't mean to bust your chops, but rather to point out that a drag car and road race car are at opposite ends of the spectrum. You may want to restrict this car to the drag strip*


*Obviously you need to take it to car shows, too.

wankeltrim

Looks nice Oskar, keep working so you can show your car at Elmia !!!.
What Carl said about blocking air flow is right,so if i was you i had cut of the aluminium sheet around the fans so the air flow would have better flow through radiator and intercooler.Only time you going to use your fan is when you drive really slow or when your car is standing still.Or you can cut out (or drill) hole in the aluminium sheet and have some thin rubber cover them,when driving the rubber is moving by the air flow through the hole.AST is shortening for Air Separator Tank.

Keep working Oskar
/Jörgen@wankeltrim

molehill

Thanks Jörgen!
I will talk to Johnny at racecooling at monday, and tell him that IŽll
send him the rad to remove the sheet! I suggested the "rubber covered
hole" idea when he was making the rad, but he said that the holes for the
fans would be enough for the airflow even when the fans arenŽt moving.

Maybe itŽll work if I mount the sheet 1" or so from the rad?
I do have an AST, it just isnŽt mounted in those pics! IŽll place it next to
the main fuses as high as I can.

- Oscar

Carl Byck

Precisely that design will not work on the road course. Don't change it, take it out document the problem get the better radiator, and then fix it(JK, sound like you've got a great shop working with you, I'd kill to have something like that near me). Twice as thick will make little difference without air flow. As for the road race forum, that is where I live. What are the advantages of the electric pump, other than parasitic loss elimination? Carl

molehill

Thanks for your help! Yes they are great to work with, and IŽm calling them first thing monday morning! I meant if I put the sheet alittle bit further away from the rad to let the air flow trough the holes for the fans, or maybe I just remove the sheet!?

The biggest advantage of the electric pump, as I se it, is the possibility to circulate the water independent of the engine speed or even when the engine isnŽt running.
This I hope will help to cool the engine in very slow traffic or in a line a hot summer day!

- Oscar

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

OMG, that is sexy, specially the IC tubes

Infini IV

Wow! Your engine bay is amazing.

Quick question... Your bolts, studs, throttle linkage, brake boost hardline... Are those brand new or how are they so "brassy-clean" looking?

Evil Aviator

Yes, you should either remove the sheet completely, remove the sheet and replace it with an actual shroud with some stand-off distance, trade the radiator for one better suited for street and road race use, or sell your current radiator and replace it. IMO your current radiator configuration is too well-made to just hack up and modify, so you may want to see if you can trade it back to your builder who can install it on another customer's drag car, or you could sell it to some drag racer if your builder will not take it back. I honestly don't see why any drag racer wouldn't love to have that radiator as-is.

It sounds like you have not fully discussed your plans with your builder. You posted that he told you the radiator configuration was good for drag racing, and that your dry bearing turbo was just fine for drag racing while a wet bearing turbo was better for a street car. It appears to me that you neglected to tell him that you plan to drive this car on the street and on road race courses. I do not think the builder is obligated to rework or replace any parts due to your lack of communication, so I hope that you approach your builder with this in mind.

An electric water pump is another drag race item that is not often found on street cars or road race cars. Once again, you may want to make sure that your electric water pump is of the continuous-duty type, and you may also want to know the life expectancy so you can replace it before it dies. Most of the continuous-duty pumps last about 2 years or 2,000-2,500 hours.

Carl Byck

Ouch!, I guess that's why your first name is EVIL

Evil Aviator

You got it!

I think that being Evil is much more productive to the success of this project as opposed to the typical "oohs and ahs" that are very nice but not at all helpful. You are quite welcome to counter any of my points if you disagree.

molehill

When I ordered the rad I went with the stock one to their shop and told him that I wanted a 4" lower but as wide as it could be made and still fit in the car. I said that the car is first hand a streetcar but that I would test drag and track events with it!
If I remove the sheet and direct the airflow with ducting trough the rad, then I should be able to use it in the street, right?

IŽve already bought an extra WP, and I only drive the car about 1500 miles each year! I will be using a controller to adjust the speed of the pump, so it will not run it at full speed al the time...

Will a bigger oilcooler fix the dry bearing issue? I asked my turbo supplier if the oiltemp would be increased with a oilcooled only turbo, but he said that the oil doesnŽt do much off cooling just lubricant the bearings.

Thanks for your (evil) guidance!

- Oscar