Turbo selection gt4294r or gt4202r goal 650-700rwhp
I'm not telling you which turbo to pick but here is what I am using.
I have a full bridgeport 13B-REW with Cosmo upper and lower intake manifolds. I'm running an HPI (High Power Improvement) T4 exhaust manifold and a Borg Warner 475 with a 1.10 AR and 83mm exhaust wheel. It was the standard 75mm with no race cover. running a 4 inch exhaust from the turbo all the way back.
This set up made 703 RWHP at 23psi on E85 only (no race gas, no water injection) on Steve Kans dual eddy current mustang dyno. When we took it to a dynojet to see what it would make there since the majority of people on this forum post dynojet numbers it put down 810 RWHP at 23psi. We didn't change anything, just made a few runs.
I personally like the "low" readings better of a mustang dyno since it is in my opinion more accurate.
Here is a dyno graph of the set up. It revs up to 10,500 RPM's. Its all done on stock bearings, 2mm Rotary aviation black supper seals, atkins solid corner seals. No stud kit, no extra dowl pins. 6000 miles on this set up with zero issues getting beat on daily. Oh I run 1 ounce of Benol castor oil premix per 1 gallon of E85.
I have a full bridgeport 13B-REW with Cosmo upper and lower intake manifolds. I'm running an HPI (High Power Improvement) T4 exhaust manifold and a Borg Warner 475 with a 1.10 AR and 83mm exhaust wheel. It was the standard 75mm with no race cover. running a 4 inch exhaust from the turbo all the way back.
This set up made 703 RWHP at 23psi on E85 only (no race gas, no water injection) on Steve Kans dual eddy current mustang dyno. When we took it to a dynojet to see what it would make there since the majority of people on this forum post dynojet numbers it put down 810 RWHP at 23psi. We didn't change anything, just made a few runs.
I personally like the "low" readings better of a mustang dyno since it is in my opinion more accurate.
Here is a dyno graph of the set up. It revs up to 10,500 RPM's. Its all done on stock bearings, 2mm Rotary aviation black supper seals, atkins solid corner seals. No stud kit, no extra dowl pins. 6000 miles on this set up with zero issues getting beat on daily. Oh I run 1 ounce of Benol castor oil premix per 1 gallon of E85.
ran out of waste gate spring (using the Precision 66mm waste gate) and I could already tell we weren't going to hit 1000 RWHP on just the S475.
Sooooo, I picked up a Borg Warner S480 with the billet wheel in the T4 set up with the 92mm exhaust wheel and the 1.10 AR. initial testing on low boost has shown that with the bigger exhaust wheel I actually start spooling about 500 RPM sooner. Ends up I was experiencing turbine stall with the 83mm exhaust wheel as some of the turbo shops had told me.
That being said in the next 2 weeks I should see what the S480 does at the same boost level. I had purchased the Full function 60-2 trigger wheel with hall sensor but it is not working, causing all kinds of issues. Going back to the stock factory trigger wheel and sensor (worked before with zero issues and zero timing issues too). Needless to say based on our low boost stuff 12, 14, 16 PSI I will guess that we should go from 703 RWHP to 800-825 RWHP at the same boost level (23psi) on Steve Kans mustang dyno which should translate to 920-950 dnyojet numbers.
Sooooo, I picked up a Borg Warner S480 with the billet wheel in the T4 set up with the 92mm exhaust wheel and the 1.10 AR. initial testing on low boost has shown that with the bigger exhaust wheel I actually start spooling about 500 RPM sooner. Ends up I was experiencing turbine stall with the 83mm exhaust wheel as some of the turbo shops had told me.
That being said in the next 2 weeks I should see what the S480 does at the same boost level. I had purchased the Full function 60-2 trigger wheel with hall sensor but it is not working, causing all kinds of issues. Going back to the stock factory trigger wheel and sensor (worked before with zero issues and zero timing issues too). Needless to say based on our low boost stuff 12, 14, 16 PSI I will guess that we should go from 703 RWHP to 800-825 RWHP at the same boost level (23psi) on Steve Kans mustang dyno which should translate to 920-950 dnyojet numbers.
Last edited by afawaterpolo; Nov 15, 2013 at 01:37 PM. Reason: spelling/words
Trans is stock, as most people know at this level it completely strips 3rd gear after about 500-1000 miles. Diff is upgraded to a Kazz. Clutch is a single ACT sprung 6 puck. Zero issues with the disc, checked at 6000ish miles worn out and replaced it with another for $120. Trans are cheap, I can find them for $100-$200 a pop.
It actually works out b/c I'd rather strip 3rd gear than break anything else. Tires are 315/35R18 Nitto 555R's and a stock flywheel.
As I said, Steve Kan can verify all of this as the car gets tuned and worked on at his shop.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Fort Worth, TX.
About the transmissions, the stock trans hold up as long as you are not launching them. From a roll they can hold for a very long time. Eventually you will grind third gear off to where there are zero teeth left. When you start launching them from a dead stop they last only a few pulls.
I'm also running a Kazz diff, it is welded but other than that its a stock rear axles with Nitto 555's measuring 305/35R18's.
Last edited by afawaterpolo; Dec 21, 2013 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Spelling/words
You can ask Steve Kan if you think I'm lying. I used his shop and dyno to tune the car. He's been there for every single run. If you want to come to Dallas/Fort Worth I'll even take you for a run in the car and show you the Motec datalogs. About the transmissions, the stock trans hold up as long as you are not launching them. From a roll they can hold for a very long time. Eventually you will grind third gear off to where there are zero teeth left. When you start launching them from a dead stop they last only a few pulls. I'm also running a Kazz diff, it is welded but other than that its a stock rear axles with Nitto 555's measuring 305/35R18's.
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