Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

Turbo Help

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Old 05-08-10, 02:39 PM
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Turbo Help

Ok guys I need a bit of help.

First off I'll tell you my set up.

10th anniversary 2nd gen.

Ported motor S4 block w/ a S5 rear plate. No emissions, BAC, or anything basically. The car has no A/C or P/S.

Haltech E8, Motec LS1 type coils, koyo rad, and so forth.

Car started out w/ a turbonetics 60-1 for my original build. It ran great never had a problem w/ it until the day I was doing some tweaking and raising the rev limiter more as the car was still making power at 7500rpms. Anyways the idiot making the adjustments (me) forgot to set the rev limiter back and I cracked the rear plate when I shifted somewhere around 9K. It was fun let me tell you. When I cracked the rear plate it starved the turbo for oil. Bye Bye 60-1.

My thoughts were that it was ok because I had a Precision 67mm inducer T4 sitting on the self that I had gotten back from a friend who I had loaned it to. Turned out it needed to rebuilt. No big deal I thought. I took it to my local turbo rebuilder and had it rebuilt.

After I got it back I installed it and shut the injectors off via the Haltech and built oil pressure throughout the motor to 30PSI, like I normally do when starting a new motor or when I put on a new turbo. I started tuning the car by starting out retarded a bit on timing and pretty fat 10.2-10.6 AFRs in boost. Safety is better than a new motor.

Anyway a buddy of mine was headed to Steve Kan's place which is about 2 1/2 hours away. My plan was to do some tuning on the way down throw it on the dyno for a base line and then do some more tuning on the way home. Well my wideband crapped out on me 2 days before I left so I didn't get to tune any. Decided to throw it on the dyno anyway, why not. It pulled 330 on steve's dyno and 245 torque right around 15psi. I know the numbers are low. Timing was set at 14* on the Haltech, which is 9* due to the the second gen factory timing marks and AFR's were around 10.4.

On the way home the turbo spit the turbine off the shaft w/o oil starvation. The compressor would spin freely like it should. I have included a photo.

I took it back to the shop who rebuilt it and had them rebuild it again. This time on their dime. Now the rerebuild is junk. I haven't had it running for more than 10 minutes and down the block 2 times. When I put it on the and started the car the compressor wheel would hardly spin. It would almost lock up. I wasn't sure what was going on, but I knew it had oil and it should be ok, so I let it run for 3 or 4 minutes. I revved it to 3k a couple times and it started to free up and spin like normal, so I took it down the block and it produces no boost what so ever. I do get smoke though. The car hasnt even run 10min and there is no shaft play on the turbo, and all couplers and connections are in good shape.

Any advice on how you guys would handle this situation? Picture of turbo below. Thanks in advance.
Attached Thumbnails Turbo Help-turbo.jpg  
Old 05-08-10, 02:43 PM
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Do you have more Photos of engine bay?
Old 05-08-10, 02:54 PM
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What would be the best set-up for my GSL-SE?
Old 05-08-10, 02:55 PM
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Forgot to add that I have a stock 85.
Old 05-08-10, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by comrealpeace
What would be the best set-up for my GSL-SE?
GT55R for sure. maybe two.

Sorry to hear about the turbo experience OP, if it were myself, I'd cut my losses, send the turbo to another reputable turbo shop, have them rebuild it for you. It's possible they were using the wrong bearings, or who knows what else. I've rebuilt a T4 precision with just a standard T4 e-bay kit, so I don't know what could have caused the turbine wheel to break off. Is there an oil restrictor in the inlet?

Edit: I see the restrictor in it, I'd get rid of that first, and only use it if you're getting bad smoking. Better off with too much oil than too little. At this point, maybe you could mark both the compressor and turbine wheel (so you can re-align them if they've been balanced) and take the two out, look at the shaft on the new turbine section, and see if there's any scoring or bad discoloration.
Old 05-08-10, 06:15 PM
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Its getting plenty of oil. I know that for a fact. That is a turbonetics filter you see on the turbo. I have done this a few times. Thank you for your insight. I will post some pictures of the setup later tonight from another computer.

Unfortunately I am not going to cut my losses for $450. Its about principle at this point and time. They will get this right or get me a new one is my feelings. I will buy new if they cant get it right and wont live up the expectations. I just wanted to see what others thought.
Old 05-08-10, 11:37 PM
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start with a clean slate. brand new Garrett or Borg Warner.
Old 05-10-10, 11:17 AM
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I am giving them one more chance. I went by there this morning to show them the turbo and they dissassembled it w/ me there. I watched as they took measurements and put it on the lathe. The turbine wheel head was actually bent a small amount in relation to the shaft. All the parts were brand new except my compressor cover and exhaust housing. They are going to make it right w/ me he told me and was very nice about it. I will update when I get it back.
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