BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Well, both gxl90rx7 and I have old E6Ks on our FCs as well.

I never had the kind of issues you have attributed to Haltechs in past posts. My data logs of rpm always looked clean/correct.

I can't imagine an engine running 30psi boost or even revving clean to 8,000rpm with the kind of ignition issues you say exist. Ignition is kind of critical.

There was a degree or two of wandering off the timing mark while revving the engine, but this is well documented and from the gear lash to the CAS.

His FD would most likely not be running FC style CAS either.

Regarding AFRs. You give the engine what it wants.

My TII engine liked being pegged rich on the wideband under full load (always richer than 10:1AFRs) or it would drop power. It would run fine 13:1AFRs at 30psi, but best power was just leaner than straight black smoke for exhaust (IDK AFRs, wideband stops at 10:1).

TitaniumTTRE

Couldn't tell you how/why you guys have been so lucky. It's not just rotaries either. Although, we did have an E6x at the shop that I showed a log to emploring the guy to stop and fix the issue before I broke the motor, he didn't want to hear it and cracked a plate. So he took it home and rebuilt it, I gave him some hints and tips on how to re run the trigger signals which he did.
He came back and it was better, but still issues on the logs. This time I refused to continue dynoing it. I got my I told you so in once with him.
What he decided to do was leave the car and have us put a meecrowreck it. All we did was cut the haltech ecu connector off and wire it in for the used micrwreck we had. Never again an ignition problem. Only thing that changed was the ECU

Buddy is running a 570ish hp stroked and punched LS3. He was using an E11. Right around peak torque he would consistantly get knock and had to drop the timing to like 8* or something ridiculous. When he finally got his new infinity he did the same thing. Cut the helltech connector off and pinned it for the AEM. All of a sudden the knock goes away and he starts running 28* or timing and starts making more power. Changed nothing but the ECU.

I agree, which is why I',m such a proponent of taking everything haltech Ewhatever and filling it with tannerite

Gear lash with the CAS is an issue, but there's more to it than that

Pulled an REW that was running an E11. I didn't like how the charge cable was run wo I changed the routing of the CAS and the charge. When trying to start the new engine it wouldn't fire at all. Looking at the counter in the logs it was having a hard time finding home because less noise changed the pickups. All from moving the charge wire. Not even de-pinning or crimping everything, just routing the differently.

My engines, for whatever reason, like to run on the "lean" side things. Most consider it dangerously lean or dangerously advanced timing but like you said, you give it what it wants and as long as the data supports what you're doing, rock on.
Now in fairness I've never run an engine down below .67L as I tend to start loosing power below .72L

I'm thinking 13:1 @ 30psi was a typo?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I'm thinking 13:1 @ 30psi was a typo?

No. Not really a planned event either though...

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

i was having pickup problems on my FD, but it helped a lot by changing the trigger settings, i documented what i did here:

https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-foru...tages-1089653/

i also have problems at cranking RPMs on my e6k FC, with kickback. the e6k and any pre-platinum trigger settings are really terrible, all you get is gain and filter, which are basically just amplification and straight threshold voltage. I think the newer elite haltechs have a completely different way of detecting engine angle and RPM, and actually have a moving average filter setting. if i remember correctly they use an FPGA

my high egt's and rich AFR probably have to do with my manifold, it is custom 1.4" ID with super short runners and low volume. i tried to make it like the OEM S5 manifold, rear rotor a straight shot, front rotor has two 45 degree bends. maybe i need to remake it with 1.5" ID runners. i probably have a little TOO much low end torque lol

https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...ts-efrmani.jpg

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

those are two 90s, not 45s

and can the 4 of us decide what town and alll move to the same location? im thinking florida or texas.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

true, they are 90s i suppose. what if i remake that runner out of the 1.5" ID pipe and keep the 1.4" straight runner to even out the backpressure. i suppose i need to measure individual runner egts to find out for sure. i figured giving one runner a straight shot helps with spool up, may be what mazda was thinking

TitaniumTTRE

Gotta love those!

Totally agree on anything pre-platinum being a dormant issue... I've not had the same problems with the platinums. We did have one FC though, PS1000, stock CAS, Ludwing harness, car dyno'ed PERFECTLY. A few days later broke the tires loose in 2nd gear and cracked a plate. He rebuild it, changed a few things, went back to S1 to redyno and a few other upgrades. DOZENS of dyno pulls and not one problem.... leaves the shop, breaks the tires loose in 1st gear this time, decides to mat it and cracked another plate. I don't know what happened after that, I wasn't with the shop anymore but I implored them to pull a datalog and see if anything was amiss, Don't know what happened but that is the ONLY issue I've personally seen with the PS1000

Meh, you tune for what they want. Not really sure there is such a thing as too much torque lol!

Ideally..... individual EGT's

Negative, NE... we need the 5 months of winter storage to keep the fleet in tiptop shape Or at least I do

wankelbug

i vote texas, great toll roads for racing, racing weather 11 months out of the year. 93 at all gas pumps, plus i live here and it is the best country in the world.