mareson

lol no problem, facts are good. this is what said
-engine built , ported ,pinned, and oil modification 7k
-block included
-turbo 500.
-manifold around 600$
-injectors around 500$
-pump 2 044 400$ or a1000
microtech 1400
-coils 6 55$ each
-clutch kit around 450$
-flywheel around 250$
-engine bracket 210$

plus radiator
fan etc

the engine has labor included 7k everytng included and all the other prices are an estimate can be lil less or a lil more

But you know your stuff. What would you ballpark this at? the 3 rotor/the 13B?

R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

Good luck. Thats all i can say and yes i trully mean it

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

You haven't stated what chassis you are putting this in.

IF its an FD you will need a new subframe. Look up some of the vendors as I haven't priced them lately but I would expect $1500 +

Second gen you can use motor mounts for about the 200 you stated

1st gen not sure never put one in a 1st gen.

I don't know where you are gettting your pricing but I don't see it possible to get the proper parts (quality) required for those prices.

I was at $7,000 for a block and rebuild parts alone for the last one I priced. This is not a build you wanna skimp on w/ parts.

I am watching football and not giving full attention, but here is a short list of problems I see.

You are missing:

Wastegate
Fuel pressure Regulator
Fuel lines
Fuel rails
Intercooler + piping
BOV (has been debated but I am not taking any chances)
There is not a clutch around that will last at all for $450 (think multi disc)
Ignition (even if you have the stock coils, which I highly doubt you willl need an amplifier)
Turbo for $500? Closest I can see is a S475 and by the time you get it how you want it the price will be closer to $900
Oil lines for turbo (these are the little parts most people forget about that really add up. Those fittings are expensive.)
Rad as you stated
Tuning

Again I am missing some things but I really can't see it done under $15000 and doing it right the first time so that you don't have to go back and do again will run you much more. I don't price used parts on a 20B. It can and probably will run for a short time on cheap knockoff parts but when it fails get out the check book as it will be $$$$$$$$$.

Good luck.

mareson

Ok it says right above my avatar 85 GSL-SE, fabrication will make things fit.
ive never priced these engines before, the two prices i was given came within 2 grand of eachother. so if im being given a cheap motor i wouldnt know it. thats why im on here to get professinal opinions. if you could give me a more accurate price and a builder i would appreciate it.

i know theres more to the engine than that list but as far as feul lines, rails, intercooler, and feul pressure regulator i dont need an engine builder to do this stuff for me. and its a little obvious im not using stock coils.

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the luck cause I did it for $12k. Yep singleturbo 20B in my 90 T2 for $12k and I drove it around town also planning to drag racing next weekend. Can you believe that I did the whole swap in 3 month?

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

The motor cost me $4500 which has a stud kit. If I listen to your scare tactic I would never think about doing a 20b swap but good thing I didn't. Good luck paying someone $20k+ in labor and wait 2-4 years to get it running. I got my 20B FC done in 3 month, it must sucked to be you?

fd3s.fc3s

iTrader: (1)

i think a three rotor in the first gen is a little much for the track anyway.. especially a 600hp+ first gen.. i dont have much experience in that area but im running a third gen w/ GT35R at 485whp and it seems to be plenty on the track.. sometimes i have to turn the boot down for better stability.. if your really trying to build a track car.. i think you should just do a t11 motor or a 13bre and focus more on suspension and chasis... making a car handle on the track is way more important than power.. (no bashing.. just my opinion)

mareson

yah ive driven my first gen hard and it doesn't need the horse and it doesn't have much stability.
i have debated on ether framing the back half for the 6 like i want to put in, or building a whole frame to make the suspension install less of a squeeze. Then just section the floor pan to fit the chassis up inside a bit. me and my brothers have built frames before. i have thought about suspension and handling to go with the power.

lol and there's nothing better than an opinion from someone who knows from experience. i have no problem with Facts and opinions, its when people say ignorant useless comments that bug me.

R0T0R

Like my Dad always said . . .there is no such thing as too much horsepower!

fd3s.fc3s

iTrader: (1)

This is ture, but if it doesnt get to the ground theres no point. Now all you have is a burnout queen. I noticed that the fact that power has to be matched with drivetrain, suspention, wheels and tires, and DRIVER is often overlooked. Theres so many people around jacksonville with 7 or 800hp cars with lowering springs. And they wonder why the <500hp rotary is faster lol!!!!!!!

mareson

THANK YOU!!!

i had to have said that at least 4 times on this thread. That is why i started this.
My town is full of over powered rice rockets.
This is why I'm looking into building a frame with a 6 link rear.

tasty danish

iTrader: (5)

what's the fastest thing you've driven, seriously

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

No it doesn't suck to be me. I am quite happy.

I am being realistic for most users. How many times did you have to open the block again? I know you had someone from P.R. come in and help out w/ a few things. Plus, I will never use a Ebay wastegate for any of my motors. How many hours did you spend on it?

He didn't state he was building it himself. Not trying to be a dick, but not everyone has that time to spend or welder to make a manifold, exhaust, etc.

It seems you want a pat on the back from everyone for not spending $20K to do it and your going to post it in every thread. I don't feel most people can duplicate it for that cost.

bhop

iTrader: (1)

3 ROTOR:

If you are building this by yourself, then it can be done for under $20k easily. If you are using the best parts money can buy, then the price will easily go over $20k. If you are on a tight budget, then I know someone who has done it for under $15k. There is a guy on the RX-8 club who claims he did it for around "$7k" ( Which I doubt, considering you need to buy two rebuild kits and the motor, which already brings you closer to 8k unless you are RESOURCEFUL!

If you are paying for someone else to build this and buying the best parts, then $40k+ is easy. If you are paying someone else to do it and on a "budget", then $30k-$40k. If you are building a properly built track/race car the $50k+ is easy.

All builds will vary greatly, depending on how you go about it.

fd3s.fc3s

iTrader: (1)

Well i wish you the best of luck with your build, and deff post pictures. I can only imagine how much fun its going to be!!!

mareson

Thanks for the support, when i get a camera ill get some photos.

Loose10AE

Quads are pointless. You wont be able to run a 26b to the max, ever. You can run 8's with a 3 rotor, for a fraction of the price. And when **** breaks, parts are hard to find, but they are still out there. Soooo much of a 4 rotor is custom. Id love to have one. But were talking hundreds of thousands of dollars to get the car 100% finished, and then its still gonna break every couple miles. Not worth it IMO. But if you're hell bent, a street ported N/A 4 rotor would be good for 400hp if its tuned right. It will last longer then some big port motor, and make a lot more torque then a 2 or even 3 rotor. Just be ready to spend some bread. Only reason I think its worth it is to be unique.
BTW, Im drunk, so I just typed a bunch of jibberish, dont take it seriously.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

What shop quoted you on those prices for parts and labor? Are they rotary specific????

Can he tune microtech or is he just going to install it?

Have you seen any of his work before?

Is this shop legit with fair turn around time?

I ask because i have been seeing shops saying they can do this and that, claiming to be top notch in their work and turn around time just to turn out to be full of crap.

Do you have proof this shop has handled serious work before? Like recently too, not work that was done years ago. With so much money to be handled its a shame for everything to be garbage in the end and a waste of money.

This is why you must do tons of research before you decide to rely on others for a job well done. Truthfully its hard for me to trust any shop. When **** hits the fan you try to blame them then they turn it around trying to blame you. Meh, its usually a big mess.

A few of my friends just recently had there cars brought to different shops asking for basically what your asking for (a complete overhaul + power)
The turn around time is all lies! Lucky for one of my friends it didnt take much longer and the work was as great as can be. Now the other friend is screwed out a entire fresh but now trashed motor and major delays all the time.

Its hard to gain trust but soooooo easy to lose it.

mareson

i dont know the name of the shop, the guy msg'ed me after looking at this. ive been asking who ever i can because really, i live in Toronto there arnt to many ppl who know their rotory engines.
so about your mirotech i dont know. i would hope he knows, i dont really want someone building my engine if they dont know their stuff.
if you want i can ask him if i can give u his name