too much power
 

Hi

I've got a question. I'm building a 4 rotor i am aware of the expense and amount of work. what i am wondering is if the horse power from that engine is to much. with that much power can i get it to the ground is it possible to put the proper suspension so it doesn't just peel the tires?

Need more info about your set-up????????

I doubt that you'll be turbocharging the 4-Rotor so you'll likely be fine with traction. If you're going to turbocharge it then you won't want to consult anyone on this forum cause we'll have no experience with that much power...

lol.. thats kinda funny :P.. epic power

Is this going to be a drag car?

Who's building this 4-rotor for you?

I have my doubts about this even being real. Were all dreamers... haha someone once told me to walk in someones footsteps....not their words. I'll believe it when I see some evidence.

Belive what you want, but i belive that if i want something bad enough that it will get done. im just planning right now saving money so really why think of anything els but my dreamcar

im asking these questions because im deciding on the engine. i dont want to turbo it just because i dont. ive been told different things about power recenty. At first i was told a 4 rotor will push 600 to low 700's non turbo. but just the other day i was told 500 to 600 if im lucky. also that a turboed 3 rotor would give me even more. i didnt think that much power could come from a 3 rotor.

i am not building a drag car, i was planning on a track car. not a drifter. i had plans to put a "Dragvette 6-link independant rear suspension" i know it doesnt bolt up but its possible to fit.

im DREAMING of a 4 rotor but if i can get almost as much power for alot less money why not

this is what Mazda achieved on the peripheral ported 4 rotor R26B engine used in the famous 787B race car:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1287760050

That's measured at the crank (about 690 peak hp for the solid line), and it used the telescoping intake system (not something you could realistically put together).

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...0&d=1287760004

600-700 is possible. High compression will be a MUST! You'll have a very nice reliable setup with that. Run your calculations 3 times before you purchase anything. It's going to be expensive.

I planned to build an N/A 3 rotor last year. I still don't even have an e-shaft! Needless to say, if you're driven it's always possible. Being logical though will help you finance it effectively and "quickly." Needless to say, there's no quick way to build a 4 rotor. He'll, most of the 3 rotor guys are still figuring things out...

i agree on the expence and that theres no quick way to build a 4 rotor. im just researching for the build.
soo whats your honest opinion is it really practical or doable? or can i get a bit less hourse power for alot less money out of a 3 rotor?

i doubt it will ever go anywhere. the build will cost at minimum $25kUSD, that said someone who drops that much money into the engine would have no difficulty finding a shop who can plant the power to the ground, with a wallet that fat.

am i crazy or does the fuel rail have 4 feeds? lmao, i like how its just got a stock FPR and pulsation damper though

we were looking at 3 rotor stuff and the 13G is a center inlet fuel rail with FPR's at each end.

Whats the point in loads of power if you can never use it?

I'd start by contacting those who've done it already...like BMI 4 rotor...or Pulse Performance in NZ. I think they even sell a 4 rotor kit..starting at 12k or something but thats' not too bad actually.

You don't need a 4 rotor, or even a 3 rotor to have "too much" power. Our current setup @ 620 rwhp will spin 345 Hoosier R6's through 70 mph, and we've barely scratching the surface as to the potential of the motor. A 2 piece shaft, a new intake manifold, more fuel, and we will easily be pushing 800+ to the wheels with pump gas and meth injection.
Now, you may not have the most tractable powerband, but if its power you want you don't need anything too fancy...
Figure out what you're going to using the car for, what sort of power and powerband you want, and go from there. Figure out your goals... it makes acheiving them that much easier. If you want the exotic sound or powerband of a 4 rotor, or even just because its different, then by all means don't settle for anything less than exactly what you want... but if its just for the power potential, keep your 13B and throw a ton of air and fuel into it.

your not going to make so much power you cant use it.. if you cant hook... bigger tire or a 4 link if it gets to bad

i did contact Pulse Performance they seemed from what Ive heard the best guys to go too, i just hadn't decided on the engine yet so i didn't go that deep. i figured I'd get a wide selection of input first.

I was going for the 4 rotor cuz of the power and its different. This was before i knew the potential of these engines. the 4 rotor is really too much money for what i want it for. sure its amazing but ill never use it to its full potential. and im not spending that much to be different.

I don't want a car i cant slam through corners. i know most of its suspension, I'm looking for over 600 horse and ill make it get to the ground.

Just remember, in the long run, NA is the MOST RELIABLE setup you can build.

AMEN :worship:

Realistically, Personally I dont see this project happening. I dont know how your finances are but if it was a 25k project, im sure you would have be seeing 4rotor setups very very often.

stay 2 rotor, there are alot of people that have made the 500whp club in a 13b.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1ZStKvjVTk

I think i will go 3 rotor, i've been talking to an engine builder says he can build a 3 rotor with over 600hp. Block is $7,000 and after intake manifold, injectors, coils,flywheel ect. it comes to about 12,000USD.
But like i said this is still the planning and priceing stage, im currenty recovering from surgury looking to start building this spring. untill that time i am open for all ideas.

Also if anyone knows about a better suspention than the watts link in my 85, i had plans for an 82 vette 6-link independant rear. it ends up fitting 2 1/2 inches wider on eather side. it can fit but it needs a frame and alot of work to cut down the 2 1/2 inches.
i dont want to be told this is imposible. i know its not the thread topic, so if you have suggestions please message me.

good luck doing a 3 rotor for $12K. However for that you should be able to get to 600 on a 13B. I am not knocking you it's just the facts. Yes I have experience in this department.