Musclefella

Hi

Well my name is Rocco and i live in The Netherlands. I've always modified/tuned Honda's for the past 12 years, but after my last project i've realised that FWD kinda sucks with alot of turbo power. I just couldn't get the power down as you can see in the vids. .

Prelude setup:Build H22 JDM,T3T4 custom turbo setup,custom downpipe,3 inch exhaust, FMI, etc etc, running 10psi boost and 24psi max on highway runs. running on pump gas.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xl0HEN_jiJg

FD setup:non seq turbo's, exhaust, Trust intercooler, Knightsports ECU, running 14 to 16 psi boost. runining on pump gas.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTNp2...eature=related

After running against my friends FD, i realised that an RWD has alot more potential and just looks awesome as well. So i bought an FB and an FC donor car. But soon found a good deal on a FD with engine damage so i had to buy. It was time to learn a new technology....

My 1st engine build, with help from my friend Neal(Speedworks). Let's see what this puppy can do
To cut the story short here's the setup and some pics so far.

Setup:
T70 masterpower with anti surge option 1.00 a/r(Thnx bobybeach)
Stock OEM 2piece apex seals
Aggressive ITO streetport
550cc primairy
1680cc secundairy
Apexi PFC
Apexi safc(had it laying around, maybe for finetuning)
2 walbro 255HP pumps
aeromotive FPR
RX7store extreme fuelkit
4inch downpipe
3inch exhaust
FMI
Pineapple heavy duty waterseals

Daily drive 350whp and once in a while 500WHP at high boost. Will upgrade to 850cc primairies by then. this is a test engine to get to know rotary technology.

















Compilation video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVvfJ7ZVsBI&feature=user

I would like to say thanks to this forum, it's been my main source of information.

Stay tuned alot more to come.

Greets

Musclefella

A7X

awesome, i think you will find that you love the rotary better than your fourcylinders .

Musclefella

When i opened up the engine you should have seen the smile on my face. Such simple technology making so much power.

Let's see if my 1st experience with building a rotary will be a good one.

Additional info:
1)ACT streetlite pro flywheel
2)ACT 6 puck sprung clutch
3)MSD 6A
4)2 x MSD Blaster SS coils

Grtz

yetterben

you will love 7's i love preludes too nice cruisers slap a h23 in there and run with that beast!!!!!

Musclefella

Dropped the engine in about a week ago.

Because i had 1 bad engine mount, i had to modify that engine mount a bit(Used another left side rubber piece). It was probably 0.5 inch off, that and missing an engine hoist mount caused some trouble.









Parts that arrived today:
1)2X walbro 255HP pumps

I'll install these next week.

I'll post some turbo setup pics when i get into installing it.

Advice is always welcome

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

Nice Rocco. Welcome to the Wankel.

I was just in den haag earlier this week. Can't say that I noticed many Mazda's on the road except for an old rx3.

Musclefella

There are only about 10 fd's in The Netherlands, and some FC's. FB's, SA's are more popular. The rotary technology is just not really option here with gas prices going sky high. Also knowledge about Rotaries is lacking, even Mazda dealers don't know what i'm talking about hahaha.

Stay tuned.

Musclefella

Well i got a question maybe someone can help.

I'm going to use the opening below the OMP for my Turbo return/drain. Can i modify that small pipe and use that? It seems like a big enough return for my T70 turbo?

There's also another hole near the tranny. Looks like the same size, small pipe fits there to? Should i block that or make a line go to a catch can?

Thnx

rofuz

u can use the pipe below the omp, that is the oem turbo oil return/drain. As for the blocking, u should post a pic so we can see what ure talking about, i don't want to give u wrong info.

rollingsband1

where can you buy master power t70's anymore? i heard there was issues with them and lots of places pulled them off shelfs.. or am i misinformed?

Musclefella

I will post a pic up shortly. It's the same type of hole as the drain below the OMP. That stock pipe fits there as well. I;ll post a pic soon.

I bought it a year ago from Bobybeach, i haven;t seen anyone having trouble with them or anything out of the ordinary. It's a quality piece, i;ve always used Garrett turbo's, the MP turbo looks to be the same quality. I'm not going to be running 30psi boost on it, more like 12 to 15daily and at events 20 tot 22 accasionally. It should be able to handle that.

Musclefella

The hole i was talking about. I also put the drain pipe over it to show that it fits on that side as well.





questions:
1)Block it off?
2)Use as carter pressure relieve? Line to catchcan?
3)What kind of wiring is it

Thnx

Morodizal

Block it off.

Marek

iTrader: (2)

Check the group buy or nopistons.com there's a guy that sells an excellent block off kit.

Musclefella

So you guys are leaning towards blocking it off?? What is the theory behind it?

I'll fab something myself, or maybe use a bolt. That should do the trick

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

The factory twins use 2 oil drains, one for each turbo. One towards the front and one towards the rear. Bolting on a single turbo you only need one oil drain. Most use the front drain. If you wanted a place to auto-drain a catch can, the rear location would make a good spot but it's not good for much else.. so block it off is the common procedure.

Musclefella

Now that's information!!! Thanks. I'll block it off then, maybe make a line go to the catchcan in the future.

Musclefella

Car won't start anyone suggestions? (93' American model)

I got oil pressure and fuel pressure, car cranks good just no spark. i;ve had 1 MSD 6al wired on the stock leading coil and have 2 MSD blaster ss coils on the trailing. When it didn't spark i was checking the PFC out in the sensor check display and 1 MSD coil got fried.

Replaced it with stock coils, everything back to stock wiring and coils are getting hot as well as the coil wiring.

Tried and tested:
1)EGI Relay is working
2)Fuel pumps/relais is working
3)Factory alarm disabled otherwise it would even crank
4)Tried checklights codes, but no codes only turns on when i use GND and FEN
5)Measured 12 volts on all + on coils
6)Not measuring anything on -
7)Crankshaft position sensor measured and are in Mazda spec tolerances
8)Ignitor plug measured wires, 1 wire get's 12 volts
9)Checked all fuses everywhere multiple times all good
10)Swapped to stock ECU, same results no spark
11)Checked connection of large white and blue connectors near ECU,good

Connector and cable running to 3 coils getting warm and coils also getting hot 1 MSD coil got fried. Replaced that.

There seems to be a short somewhere, i used stock wiring, turned ignition system back to stock but no spark.

What more can i do??Ignitor module or wiring not good? Do some wiring straight to coils from the ignitor module? Only 4 wires running to coils and alot more go to the ignitor module plug.

marcus219

double check all grounds

Musclefella

Can you tell me specifically what grounds you are talking about. I know of a few.
1)Under the UIM, near coils i've grounded that to tranny.
2)Somewhere in de driver's side sidepanel, have not looked at that yet.
3)Near ECU 2 i've hooked on chassis bolt.

I think those are relevant for starting. Did i miss something?

Musclefella

well finally it runs.......

Stock wiring, 2ground wires where shorting with the coils wires.

Car started right up . It ran fine for a while. Idle was nice at 1500rpm but crazy rich with 11.0 / 11.5 air fuel ratio. After shutting down the car for inspections it started to flood. The 10BGEV's were probably not heating up enough. Swapped them with 9's on the leading and car starts right up again. At idle everything seems fine. It revs smooth to 4000rpm, but has some hickups.

Seems to start flooding again even after adjusting the INJ MAP on the PFC with some lower values. Ran the car for 20 minutes. oil pressure is fine, oil temps seem okay, water circulation seems good.

I did the Fan test TFA / GND but as soon as i hooked the battery up the fans start turning?? They suppose to do that after ING is on ON possition.

Anyway Circulation is good, but water temps started to rise to 99 celcius and fans are NOT turning on!!!??? i have a 75 celcius thermostat and tested that and it works. I turned on the A/C so the fans start turning, car cooled down to 72 celcius.

Any ideas????

Musclefella

I need some advice!!

Clutch does not work, pedal stays down!! "NOT ALL THE WAY DOWN", There is pressure, and pressure stays so it does not leak. I revised the slave cilinder, it works. Pedal has a few inches of play just not enough to make it work. I kept pumping about 30 times for about 1,5 hours and oil squirts out of the slave, in a nice stream. I don;t know if there is more air in the system but i've attempted this a couple of times and pedal stays the same?? Any advice on this????

Also:
I started the car with the Apexi PFC and it ran great, for a while, but had to remove the tranny to inspect clutch cause i could not get it to work?? .

Car starts with stock ECU, runs in limp mode cause of single turbo setup, but it runs. I can;t get the Apexi to work anymore???

Anyway got spark, got fuel pressure. I've used stock settings. I've tried idle control, fuel cut. Removed plug alot of times.
1)I've disabled non sequential turbo
2)Disabled knock warning
3)Disabled injector warning
4)Disabled 02 sensor
5)Enabled Idle control

The car ran before with the Apexi at 1500rpm settings at idle control. Can't remember the Fuel cut setting or fuel recovery settings.

When i check for spark with the Apexi it does spark!!?? It sometimes wants to run but it just doesn;t.

1)I've got a USDM 1993 FD3s and tried cutting the 4 wires(EGR,SWITCH,SOLENOID ETC), and it doesn't work.
2)Stock ECU does work even without the 4 wires cut hahahaha

So if anyone can give me some pointers i can start investigating

dpf22

Just a thought. Ditch the afc. You have a powerfc which is programmable. If you can get it working, ditch the afc because its useless with the pfc in there. As far as the clutch, make sure the fork it properly positioned and that everything is bled WELL.

chohakai

iTrader: (1)

I had the clutch disk installed inside-out once. That prevented clutch from disengaging.. It could be that. Everything else should be pretty apparent...

Musclefella

Yeah i would, but i just had it lying around. It hooked up only to plus en minus to make i work. It's not hooked up to the pressure sensor, so it;s not doing anything but monitoring, revs. Yeah i could ditch it, but the car worked with the PFC installed. , so it can;t be the safc...

Fork does seem to work like it has to. I can see it go back and forth, and the slave piston is positioned nicely inside. I've tried bleeding the system for hours and hours. Gonna give it another try this week, or else just take off the tranny again and inspect the collar?? The bearing clicks in nicely, and the o ring is fitted good on the collar. Can see the fork working, slave is just not pressing far enough on the fork to make it work.

System keeps pressure....

Hahaha your making me think about that !!! I can't believe i would do that but, can't hurt to check hahaha. Thanks good one!!!