im planning on going with the to4 60-1 with the a/r of .96 , hks manifold, wastegate, 3" exhaust/dp, walbro pump, fmic, and 2 additional 850cc's, bov and pov. probably forgetting some stuff.

im only going to be running 10-12psi max cause this is a street car. how much will the to4 60-1 make at this psi? and will my fuel setup be okay?

thanks
brandon

 

Dont buy a single turbo if you plan on only running 12 psi of boost.

Mike

 

gee thanks. its only for a little while until i can get some more safety measures.

can anyone else help me out?

 

I'm tuning one presently that is running a 60-1/.96 with a stock motor and it made 310 RWHP at 8.5 to 9 psi. They normally make around 350 to 400 RWHP at 15psi.

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph
651RWHP/520RWTQ

 

I did 337 @ 9.5 psi last year on my 60-1 Hi-Fi. It ran great ... 0 lag and lots of fun. Forget what Mike says, he needs to lay off the crack pipe.

 

thats more hp than i expected...but im not complaining. yea please lay off the pipe

so what 2 additional injectors should i go with if im going to stay around 10psi? i think im going to get a 10psi wastegate to help me stay around there.

thanks for the info so far

brandon

 

anyone else? so around 310-340hp what size of additonal injectors should i use?

also besides the additionals. how can i increase the stock injectors duty cycles? will a s-afc do it?

 

The reason for getting a "single" turbo, or bigger, etc. is to have the right sized turbo for you application. The efficiency is better and the engine actually runs better in some cases. Hitman himself states that a proper sized t04, like the one mentioned, will produce 30% power over what you are running on the stock turbo, for second gens that is, but true with almost every car, at the same boost level. No need to run around squeezing every last bit of power from stock turbos if you know you are going single in the end. Get it first and keep the boost low till your ready.

 

Sorry but 3-330rwhp sounds good to me, almost a 100 hp increase without raising the boost im after high hp, not high psi

 

ive decided on using a supra tt pump, and 2 addtional 1200cc's that will support up to the turbos max hp. how does this sound?

 

Sounds like you could probably just take out the 550's in the secondaries and put in the 1200's instead of adding 1200's. This is assuming you have a way of controling the 1200's...

 

yea thats the whole thing, im just going to use an aic. haltech later

 

ive decided on 1200cc's and a supra tt pump recommended by chris

 

are you on the crack pipe too? 20psi daily? maybe thats why you blew your **** up. im not talking about crispeed, talking about initiald fc/chris.

at 10-12psi i will be around 350hp and will be good enough for daily, i dont want to freaking peel *** everytime i step on the gas pedal.

 

My car is running pretty rich and I have too big of a spring in my wastegate, I had to back off at like 6700 rpm. anyways, at 6700rpm @ 15psi and about 11:1 AFR through most of the power band, i laid down 355 rwhp and 280 rwtq. It has more to give, but I didn't have the dyno time to mess with it...

60-1 , .96 undivided housing, hks cast undivided manifold, stock primaries and 1680cc secondaries, haltech, racing beat exhaust (way too restrictive)... just so you know.

BDC put down 355 @ 10 psi (I'm 99% positive on this one), so it also really depends on your port work and obviously exhaust... as well as other things, but you know what I mean He put down over 427 rwhp at 17psi...

This turbo has PLENTY of potential for a daily driver in my opinion.

 

that was a damn good post kurgan. please talk some more to me is there any way to run 1200 secondaries in the stock location without a haltech?

 

So with the 60-1, what intercooler are you using, or what intercooler is recommended..
At 11:1 AFR, thats almost drowning the motor with gas, a little leaner would probably make alot more power, timing control is critical, but also with that kinda of afr, I would be concerned about washing the lubricant off of the wear surfaces, I wonder if thats why alot of people that boost their motors over stock start crapping apex seals, its not detonation, but added fuel is washing the lube out of the engine, and making the seals jam or seize in the grooves, fuel is a lousy lubricant..
I am not trying to argue at all, its just a theory I have had about it , the rotary almost has a perfect combustion chamber for controlling detonation, and with double ignition it should make it even more of a rare event, its not like a typical wedge cylinder head with quench areas and such..
It almost seems like drowning the motor in fuel is used as a bandaid solution for lack of intercooling, as the added fuel allows a cooler burn, and the latent heat of evaporation is used to cool the charge temp, but its a double edged sword, cooler charge, washing of the oil, and to rich to make efficient power.. just some thoughts...Max

 

Please check out my setup. I also have a .96 a/r running a HKS kit. This is what I want from this RX-7 - - - reliability.

I am running a very conservative 14 psi with absolutely no problems. I am also running rich and 393 rwhp with 288 lbs of torque. Here are the mods:

- HKS T04E single
- street port (Redline Engineering)
- 2 mm seals (special from Redline Engineering)
- lightened and clipped rotors (Racing Beat)
- intake ports cleaned
- pinned housings (Redline Engineering)
- Random Tech cat
- 660 cc pri, 1200 cc sec injectors
- Greddy SP exhaust
- HKS front mount type "S" intercooler
- ceramic coated exhaust manifold, exhaust housing of turbo, and down-pipe
- SX fuel pressure regulator and Denso fuel pump
- PowerFC computer
- Magnecor plug wires
- NGK plugs
- B&M Ignition Amp
- KAAZ 2-way LSD
- MazdaSpeed Power-Plant-Frame
- Fluidyne radiator
- Earls oil cooler
- ACT clutch and pressure plate
- Unorthodox pulley set
All dyno runs were with the full exhaust intact!

check out the WWW button for pics.

Rick
1993 RX-7

 

thanks

 

Rotary turbo's and pump gas....

10.5 to 10.9 : 1 = rich (results in about 10% extra wear due to over fuel)

11.0 to 11.5 : 1 = ideal (for engine life)

11.6 to 12.5 :1 = ideal for max power (HIGH risk of engine failure "detonation" at power levels over 380rwhp)

12.5 & higher :1 = send me an email regarding full engine rebuild !

On race gas it is a different story but not as lean as some people would have you believe. The above is all with acceptable amount of saftey factor.

 

cool, thats some good info. i need to write those af's down

 

Yah thats good info, to know, I am suprised by how rich is considered good, if that were a piston motor , you would have washed the rings out of the engine in the first 1000 miles, I would tend to think that running premix woud also play into the equation though of amount of wear, or how much oil is injected throught the OMP, Racing beat touched on this breifly in some of there tech articles, as the HP increased the amount of lube should increased, as more fuel is allowed into the motor. Max

 

I think my car is running too rich at 11:1, I'm aiming for 11.5 -11.8:1. That should bring my mid range numbers up where the need to be.

Right now, I'm running the Greddy FMIC kit for the FC. I don't really like it. The core is pretty small and the piping goes all zigzaggy through the engine bay, then does a 180 degree bend into the the throttle body. I dont like it. This winter, I'm going to be replacing the 2nd gen intake with a 3rd gen intake and changing intercoolers. I'm not sure what IC setup I'm going to run... but here are my options.

• Air to water IC from spearco with custom pipes
• Get a bigger spearco FMIC core with custom pipes

Right now, I'm leaning towards the air to water...

 

The T04E setup seems to be very versatile.... If you want max hp, configure system accordingly or if you want dependable daily driven....
What are the essential electronics for running the T04e setup???

I hear alot of good thing about the air to water IC....
Where can I find the info on the web????