http://youtu.be/BQEUy_1THF0

I know how the Wastegate is supposed to rock back and Forth but not Side to Side.. Literally it seems like I can Close it all the way and yet still pull and push the wastegate side to side.. Anyone else have this problem or know a fix?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVmwd...ature=youtu.be


Another Video for a better Look and some more information

 

Drill the internal gate out.

Weld plate over the internal wastegate
Weld over the hole where the internal gate rod goes outside the turbo.

Use a tial external wastegate

 

Sounds like a plan. Any other ideas?

 

ive had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM on my s5 wastegate. it seems the problem is common. im now at a bnr stage 4 so no worries for another 20 some odd years.

also had the stupid rattle as well.

 

So I ended up Grinding off the Weld that held the Wastegate to the Actuator arm..
Then I am going to Mill out the hole and Weld in a new Sleve.. after the fact I am going to be Ceramic Coating the Exhaust manifold..
lol at this point i am over $1100 into this stock turbo.
High performance Upgraded with the largest compressor wheel that I could fit inside lol
will post pics of finished product

 

Turns out from all the Moving around it actually Pitted the Wastegate.. So I resurfaced it and the Wastegate arm was damn near worn into 2 pieces.. Replaced entire arm , Pics posted shortly

 

 

I'm having the same trouble, where did you get the new arm and sleeve?

 

pm'd

 

all that work for a s5 turbo..

 

Responded to pm..

 

Same problem with my, after porting wastegate.
How you have fixed?

 

My buddy made me a new sleeve. I made it the same OD as the original sleeve, but made the ID back to spec, slightly tighter, but keeping in mind heat expansion. we made the length the complete length of the rod. factory it is maybe .5-1mm shorter. Mines is barely shorter so when it is in there is barely any play. We just machined the straight sleeve since it needs to be tack welded in place anyways. I just have ot make sure I center the valves over the holes before welding.

I am also going to weld the pivot so it doesn't get stopped by the housing. The factory plate will hopefully be replaced with a bell mouthed shape to allow the valve to open fully. My only issue is if it will warp and eventually leak. Also machining it flat after welding everything so it seals, even though the turbo side might be a little off since its so old.