I have a '93 that I am going to completely do a rebuild on. I will not keep the car stock as I rebuild it, so I will be replacing as much of it with performance gadgets as I go.

When it comes time to rebuild the engine, should I change to a single turbo setup or should I just buy new twins? I want it to be a simple engine and I understand that the vacuum hoses overcomplicate the boost situations.

The plan is to strip the car down to the chassis, have it stripped and repainted (I dont know what color yet), rebuild it with new brakes, wheels/tires, engine (and turbo(s?)), seats, etc... I may also get a roll-cage installed since it will be alot easier to do with car completely stripped.

...a long list of "i want" but a short supply of $$$.

 

With a short supply of money you can forget about going with a single turbo FD. It will cost you about $10,000-12,000, if your car is stock. My car is not even stock and it's going to cost me $8000.

 

All that stuff you listed is going 2 cost you around 10-12k or more.. Add another 2-3k if you build a turbo kit yourself and 4k or more if you buy one. Then you will need ic, dp, cb, ecu, larger injectors, bigger fp, RRFPR, upgraded raditor, and this is all i can think of off the top of my mind.

But if your gona replace the twins anyways then you have some kinda cash for a turbo and i would replace them with something.. Depends on what you want. High hp drag car, or fast spool autocross car??

 

mods: Street port and polished stage II,
upgraded coolant seals,
Hurley 3mm racing apex seals,
XS T04E Turbo,
AEM EMS,
1600cc injectors,
RP Racing fuel pump,
Aquamist 2s water injection kit,
GReddy SMIC,
Pettit ss resonated MP,
Pettit ss cat-back,
under pulley kit(no air pump),
3-bar MAP Sensor,
Profec B(12-2?psi),

Ken

 

I don't miss my twins at all. It doesn't have to cost as much as you think. My first fd I bought everything top dollar and new. On my latest fd I've gone the budget route. Not quite as much rwhp, but a lot less money, and more reliable too.

 

Dude, You can build a single turbo setup for WAY less than 8-10k and even under 5k. For starters you DONT need a radiator. Even if you go front mount, You dont need a radiator. If your car overheats, its because of a different reason. Ive had my type V Greddy front mount for 2 years and have never overheated. This is even in the heat of a South Florida summer stuck in traffic for about 45 min.
Next, getting the turbo and manifold and downpipe shouldnt cost you over $1400(depending on application). Go to Back-yard-productions.com
for great prices on turbo's and DP. Go to SFP.net for you manifold.

As far as fuel, you can jump the fuel pump relay to the high setting for now, until you can get larger injectors and dual or better fuel pumps.

The IC and the piping are your biggest $$ concern. GO with spearco and spend $550 for there assembly and find someone who can make bends for it and brackets.

Buy a G-force ECu, put it in and set the Home depot special boost controller to 13-14psi and youre good to go.

 

forgot about the wastegate too. Add that

 

Your gona blow ur engine if you set ur fuel pump to high.. the injectors will be way over the proper duty cycle...When doing something wit a rotary dont do it half ***. For that matter dont do anything half ***.. No you dont need a raditor but the stock unit isnt as strong and it will put ur mind at rest...

 

Like I said, if you can get bigger injectors better for ya. But it is not necessary for 12 psi of boost or less on a decent size turbo. As far as a radiator, many people do have different views on this. But, as far as i have seen,(cameron from pettit, Lance from Toyomoto) everyone agrees that the stock system cools adequately. I did not say you can run Auto-X, but for drag and street, stock will do. The injector duty cycle will be higher now, but at 85-90% its not the end of the world, nor will you need a new engine. Unless ofcourse an injector is clogged.