Why are people not using hose clamps if they are using silcone lines?

Sometimes, I don't understand why people don't take precautions on such critical parts...

 

The water injection was running flawlessly, I was actually testing it. That is why I was even going full throttle. I was doing a little run where I roll into full throttle to test the response of the system. Everything was working great.

According to the Peak button on my Defi boost gauge, it hit 1.5bar of boost. The problem with a quick spooling turbo, is that if it spools through the point where you want it to stop, it gets the the danger point in a blink of an eye (or faster).

Amazing how **** goes down though.

 

The line was still attached to the Tial nipple thing that comes out of the wastegate. The banjo bolt came loose and fell out. My vacuum line was dangling with the nipple still in it. It wasn't like the silicon line came off.

 

I understand.

What boost controller were you using?

 

Greddy Profec B Spec II

 

wow, thats a shame!

Guess this thread is truly a testiment to the necessity of good wastegate lines.

 

Man, it breaks my heart; after all you've been through

 

It doesn't matter what you've been through...just where you end up. Ever since the beginning I wanted this car to be an LS2 car. So now I get my chance...cost me a lot more money going this direction, but i gave the rotary a shot, didn't get to really have fun with it too much, but learned A TON about so many essential systems that will apply to all vehicles.

The FD revises your perspective. No project seems tough after you work on an FD for awhile!

So now the car will get the LS2 and hopefully I have better luck. I am confident I will, and that I will end up with something I am satisfied with. Hopefully I can continue to finance the project until that happens. That remains to be seen.



This is DEFINATELY a testament to quality wastegate lines. I would also say to use some medium strength lock tite on the threads of the wastegate, even with the nice fittings and lines.

 

Cozmo,

If you do as well as you've done with a rotary, you'll do exceptionally with a piston engine. After all, we build these cars to enjoy them, and although building is fun - it can get repetitive. Best of luck with the LS2, it should be a blast!

 

I came from a BMW M3 that I did MUCH track driving in...I mean lots! Every weekend I was out there beating on it. I did one track session where I used nearly a full tank of gas without coming off the track (we had the track open for 2 hours after it rained hard early in the AM and everyone went home but a few of us.)

I never worried about that car and as a result had TOO much fun in it. I built the FD to be a track car...but with the rotary I would never get back to being able to beat on it for hours. I think the LS2 will help with that. I will miss the smoothness in decelleration from the rotary and the sound it makes. Feels sort of liberating to move on...even though I am sure I will miss it.

Sorry to derail the thread. I will make my own. I just thought it was funny (in a sick kind of way) that this failure was related exactly to what you guys were talking about....and that I had ordered the majority of the fittings I needed, when this happened.

 

Now that I re read my post, I think it came out wrong

What I meant was that after all you have been through, to loose an egine over a bolt


Man, I know what you mean with the "liberating comment"; I just can't let go...

Good luck with the FD

 

I know this definitely sucks, but this exact reason is the train of thought that I had to skip the Greddy series and basic boost controllers. Most of the more advanced controllers will have an Overboost protection built in. If the controller ever sees the boost level that you set it at, it will automatically cut boost.

Unfortunately, the Greddy units don't come with such a system, I think it would have saved your motor. Good luck with your endeavor.

 

GOOD to know, since I am sort of on the market for a EBC; and was looking at the turbsmart2.

 

Good Choice. The Turbosmart E-Boost2 is a GREAT unit. With dual wastegates, you'll want to run 1 solenoid per WG for the best performance and proper setup. You can run it with 1 and I'm sure it would be "ok", but I'm tired of taking chances.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294906522

 

any one know of a manual boost controller that has threaded in put/out put lines ? most of the ones ive found just have rib nipples. worse comes to worse i could weld fitting on it. unless theres some thing plastic/rubber in side that i could melt.

before any one ask, why i am going to use a manual and not electronic. me and my buddy where driving around in his wrx(he had a electronic controller) he blew a fuse or some thing, which in turn messed up his controller some how. the boost spiked and blew his motor up. more or less destroyed his car. his hood had a hole the size of my head in it.which to this day we don't know what made the hole in the hood.

its a 1 in a million chance some thing like this could happen but id rather not take it.

 

I used the Hallman Pro RX. It has threaded barb fittings that I swapped for -AN adapters of the same thread.

Only tough part is one of the barb fittings is the seat for the ceramic ball and also has the bleed port, so you have to machine those into the -AN adapter. I used a small drill bit for the bleed and a coutersinking bit for the ball seat.

My boost control is perfect with absolutely no spike or creep and good response.

I also have a relief valve (pop off valve) in case of wastegate failure...

 

The wastegate spring didn't do it's job?

 

Where did you get your pov?

I won't be allowing the possibility of this again, such a waste of so much time and money..

 

This is exactly why I say , " spend the money on a GOOD ecu " ' you will have over boost protection and a lot more ! when you buy a cheaper , but limited ecu , you always have to spend a lot MORE on the other little black boxes to get it done right (and on rebuilds!)! also , if the engine wasnt mapped up to the point where u blew , why wern't the maps richned up and the timing set to 0 degrees or less?

 

It was WAY rich when it blew, it for SURE didn't blow lean. I think it blew because it was too rich. I don't think it really matters how it went, but it for sure wasn't lean. AFR was 10:1 with the water methanol at full song (450cc/min)...

Like in the movie Major League where they keep arguing about the flight of the home run, and the one guy just says, 'who gives a ****? It's GONE.' That is how I feel about the matter.

 

I think I got the Greddy POV at Rotary Performance (rx7.com) about 6 years ago.