fritts

iTrader: (5)

Has anyone here used braided stainless lines for their wastegate connections. I'm just wondering if I'm going overboard on my lines, just don't want any uncontrolled boost issues from a broken boost line.

KINETIK_FD3S

SS lines are the best way to go, im going to do the same with my tials and use earl's orange heat shield tubing over the lines.

atihun

Here's some pics using earls fittngs with ss braided lines. I also used a heat shield tubing as the lines a few inches from the exhaust manifold:









I think it's good insurance.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I figured I'd just use regular hose with my wg but then I'll put a shielding over it that can withstand a stupid amount of heat. Got it for 25 bucks for 3 feet so this is not some cheap shielding. Should do the trick just fine I think.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Atihun, again nice job!

Here is mine…not the prettiest pic but….

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I used SS lines on my HKS GT 60mm wastegate. Make sure you use swivel fittings so the hose can rotate even when tightened or it can loosen up easily from the weight of the hose/vibration.

I later added a Hallman Pro manual boost controller and fit it up for -AN lines as well. That was a bit of a pain as the lower nipple is also the valve seat for the ball and the side nipple has the bleed hole.- worked out very well in the end.

tk5dan

it is a very good idea to do this for high boost applications. on my car awhile back i had regular rubber hose with a zip tie. one night on 100 octane i was really pushing the car hard (tuned for 27psi) and the line to the wastegate blew off. ended up at 38psi for a few seconds.

stainless lines w/ nice fittings ftw!

CMonakar

What size lines are you guys using?
rotarypower101 -3AN?
blue TII -4AN?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

you guys are killin' me. I may have to go this route but damn it's so expensive!

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

100 bux in fittings is a hell of alot cheaper than a motor. I forget what size I used, I think I used -4

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

Did the Zip ties melt?

T04Eneedy

anyone know the thread pitch on the fittings into the TIAL wastegates?

KINETIK_FD3S

^ for the 38mm's its 10mm x 1.0

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

you have a point there.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

IMO the smaller the better, its not a issue of flow rate, it’s a issue of pressure.
Therefore the smaller the internal volume the quicker the response time and reaction to the desired position.

But for all intensive purposes, almost any reasonable size is probably be fine.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

so what are you saying? -3AN what size hose is that?

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

I have all these pics I have to put them somewhere right

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

IIRC yes it is -3 its been a while.
it was the smallest that i could get while still retaining readily available parts.

KINETIK_FD3S

anyone know where to get aluminum 10mm x 1.0 to -3 fittings? i looked but only found -4.

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

IIRC most of the -3 is steel stuff, let me see if I can find one
heres steel just in case
http://secure.mycart.net/catalogs/ca...showprevnext=1

Jay7 Nyc

iTrader: (3)

-3 Nitrous or oil lines will do the job...

Jay7..

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Mine is big -6an stuff since that is what I had left over from my fuel system.

I haven't had a problem w/ the nylon zip ties melting, but once I repositioned the line wrong after I put in the manual boost controller and the fire hose ended up against the turbo housing.

It smelled bad and discolored a bit- that is how I found out. Hose was still pliable.

Even w/ the manual boost controller (ceramic ball Hallman Pro) it does not spike. Data logs show boost hits a psi or so below max holds there and then settles to max a few tenths of a second later with roll on or downshift boosting.

Wastegates size, boost controller bleed hole size and a bunch of other factors affect this though of course.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Kevlar braided hose, heat shielding and proper routing has always worked fine for me. Never had a failure.

Blue TII,

Hows that w/g setup work for you?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I finally got that WG set-up to work for me without boost creep by porting the manifold and turbo exhaust housing very large up to the WG runners.









Fixed boost creep, but hurt boost response a bit since the stock velocity stacks in the manifold are ported to almost none. I still hits max boost at same rpms (15psi 3,300rpm in 5th), but boost below 3,000rpm boost is lower/slower than it was.

My next stock hybrid will circumvent this problem by putting the WG runners in the manifold right before the velocity stacks and angled so flow wants to exit the WG.

I think that if I put the WG runners in the right spot the turbulence at the far edge of the WG runners will just act as part of the velcocity stack and so not be detrimental to flow.

I am thinking two little Tial WGs to keep it divided instead of one large one with a divider. That WG divider pictured broke again even though it was 1/8" thick SS with a floating design for expansion.

I am thinking of using the BB T04B (T04S) center section and HiFi housing as well.

Anyways, the turbo/WG is working great now. Most of the time Auto-X ing I am having to short shift it keeping it out of the powerband to keep the RA-1s from spinning- but having the power to burn out there on the streets sure is nice. :P

signofinfinity

I like the boost solenoid instead of the EGR.... neat..... will set up mine there

Any heat issues?


Sorry for hijacking this.... but its worth an ask !