pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Ok, for my FD I'm just about ready to buy a SR stage 2 turbo kit used, for fairly cheap. The turbo is a little overkill for what I'm planning, but from reading lots of Ernie T posts, it seems like it spools before 4k, and realy rips up top.

The questions: How badly do you have to adjust the frame rail for the turbo to sit in there, without rubbing/knocking around under acceleration? Any pictures would be great!

Wastgate: My kit does'nt come with a wastegate. What wastagate will work with the kkk/Holset (The seller says it has a t04 flange, so I'm assuming its a Holset.) I'm trying to get an idea of how much I'm looking at a wastegate that will work for my goals. (400rwhp for daily/475rwhp for track use.)

Any input would be greatly helpfull. Thanks, CJ

88fc3sw/HX83

As far as the frame rail goes, I wouldn't know. I had it fitted on an FC

wastegate You will need the HKS Racing wastegate(50mm), anything smaller will result in boost creep. Plus the manifold has the flange for it.

allrotor93

iTrader: (126)

from a 2nd gear roll you will hit 15psi by 4200rpm. not too bad for a big *** turbo.

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

With the cast manifold you will have to beat the sh*t out of the frame rail, I would also advise the use of a motor brace to prevent the turbo from slapping the frame. That's why I designed and fabricated one for my FD.

Cheers!

aren't hte KKK turbos aka holst turbos dry CHRAs?

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Just out of curiousity, what turbo is this comparable to?

Also twokrx7, do you have any pictures of the brace? Or pictures of how much it has to be beat on?

The only thing I don't like doing is beating on the frame rai. Would'nt this kinda take away from the structural support of the frame rail? My FD is pretty nice, and the thought of bashing on it, kinda makes me cringe.

CJ

88fc3sw/HX83

I don't know for sure, but I've heard that its comparable to the Greddy T-88, but what I do know is that Ray and Ernie T is proof of the capabilities of the turbo. I also don't think that you have to bash the frame rail if you're using the cast manifold.

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

Here's a pic of the torque brace (hope this works):

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1189187

Don't have pics of the frame rail but with the Stage II and cast manifold from SR the frame rail required clearancing. Not sure if the current kits sold have the same requirement.

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

Bi-State customs states in their kit it doesnt require any bashing of the freme rail, unlike the one from SR Motorsports, I am not sure what needs to be done with the actual SR Motorsports one. It is not comparable to the T88, I heard it straight from Ernie the HX-35 on his car, stock igntion stock ports was hitting 15PSI by 3800RPM, about the same as running stock twins non-sequential with full exhaust intake etc. The T88 is a bigger turbo than the HX-35

88fc3sw/HX83

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

You will need to beat in the frame rail to get the turbo to clear. It will not affect the structural integrity of the car. I used solid motor mounts and the car was rock solid. Only thing I would change is the oil feed, I'd change to a -6 or -8 all the way to the block. Don't reduce it down the fit the stock tiny oil line.

88fc3sw/HX83

Ernie T,
Did you have to use a restrictor pil for the oil feed line?

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

The kit comes with a reducer which chokes the turbo. Reason why I had to rebuild it after only 9months. Take it off and run a -6 from the turbo to the block and do away with the tiny stock junk.