I was offered a trade. This turbo (PT 5862 Gen 2 V-band) for a set of Advans I'm selling.

I was planning on a small single in the future, so I'm strongly considering the trade.

The 92 FD's "setup" right now (it's pretty much stock, RHD if that makes a difference)

STOCK engine, stock ports.

Bunch of 90s gauges that came with the car from Japan. Greddy water temp, coolant temp, oil pressure, Blitz boost gauge, exhaust temp (works 25% of the time) and a Greddy turbo timer.

Compression: Front: 130 - 123 – 122, Rear: 130 - 130 – 125

ARC intake box

Apexi axle-back exhaust

Setup goals

This is not my first rodeo — but it is my first time riding this particular bull.
(Translation: I've done aftermarket turbo setups on a few different cars, but never on an FD.)
Anyway, goals are:

1. SAFE — I'm not looking to rebuild in 3,000 miles. Of course, more power the better, but I'd take a reliable 300whp over an "at the limit" 375.
2. SIMPLE — I'm not a fabricator. I'm comfortable taking the peripherals apart, but I've never pulled a motor, nor do I have the space to. Things have to be bolt-on for this setup. I will be building this literally in my driveway, or at a friend's garage (if I'm lucky) if I do it.
3. CHEAP (ish) — I don't have a bunch of money to spend. Most, if not all parts will be sourced used.

I am a very patient dude, and will gather necessary supplies and info before diving in. I'd rather be enjoying the car while I gather parts cheaply for a year instead of having it ripped apart in the driveway all summer, having to buy new parts at full price as I go.

If I could do the whole setup for under $2k (remember, the turbo itself is "free") I would be a VERY happy camper.

Other parts needed?

Engine Management: Is Power FC okay? Standalone seems extreme, Power FC seems obsolete. Is there a middle ground?

Wastegate: Obviously EWG needed. What size? I'm fine with open dump. I do have a friend who could fab a tube or full exhaust, if needed.

Fuel system: Injectors, of course — upgraded secondaries? Or need to upgrade all? Also, pump, filter. Need to upgrade lines?

Intake: Can I continue using my ARC intake box?

Downpipe, exhaust: Is there an assumed "universal" type fit for aftermarket downpipes on the FD? Definitely need guidance here. Again, I do have a fabricator buddy... but the less I can rely on friends' help, the better.

Spark Plugs: I always run NGK. The "classic" thing to do on most cars is the "one step colder" NGK when going with an upgraded setup. Same for FDs?

Cooling: I have a Koyo N-Flow ready to go in. Will I need a second oil cooler? My car only came stock with one.


Other Questions
1. The turbo is V-band. Will this be an issue? Or are most aftermarket FD manifolds V-band anyway?

2. Ballpark safe expected whp for this turbo?

3. What did I miss?

Thanks all SO much for any and all help.

- Gabe

 

To start, that's a fairly small turbo for a rotary. It'll spool super quick, but may run out of steam quickly too.

The PFC will be perfectly fine to run a low power setup.

If you cut a bunch of corners and buy the cheapest **** available than you *might* get away with starting close to $2k, but then you'll just be gambling on a rebuild.

The vast majority of manifolds are running a T4 footprint, not vband.

Honestly, it sounds like your best bet is to sell the wheels for cash, and just apply that money towards general reliability upgrades. I don't think you're in a great position to be converting to single turbo on this platform right now, based on what you said and what you implied you don't know.

 

Exactly what I needed to hear!

Thanks my friend. Appreciate the guidance.

 

Of note, it's best to purchase a bundle of the DP, manifold, and turbo together, that way you know the fitment and packaging will work together. Most turbo setup kits are made for the DP to terminate at the same location as the factory downpipe, that way they're able to mate up with all the standard cat/mid-pipe piping available.

Keep in mind, when you do go single turbo, you'll want to plan for a new intake setup, replacing the stock IC, upgrade the fuel (larger secondaries at a minimum and preferably a more robust fuel pump/rewire), look into an ignition upgrade, your radiator should get replaced (if only to remove those stock plastic end tanks), you'll probably want to consider a new clutch as well.

Be warned, you WILL end up paying a premium on modifying this car, it's your choice if you want to do that on the front end or after a potentially catastrophic failure. Rotaries (turbocharged ones at least) differ from pistons in that they are very unforgiving when mistakes are made.. I'm not saying you need to drop $20k to go single, but trying to do it on a $2k budget is just asking for problems.

 

"I am a very patient dude"

the more patient you are the better the outcome.

can a single turbo setup be assembled for 2K? yes, but you will have a system that will fail. you did not list an intercooler for example. the turbo is a 70 pound per minute turbo which will make 500 rwhp. if your wastegating isn't really good i could see the turbo blowing the stock intercooler into pieces. prior to that happening IAT would have gone thru the roof and you will be breaking the tips of your OE apex seals. i could go on and on and on.

the plan does not have to end in disaster. i suggest you readjust your time frame as well as budget. do a lot more R&D on the FD. while it is lots more work than pretty much any other car it will ultimately provide more payback.

this is not to say that everything has to be top shelf to get a 100% result... for example the Power FC when combined w a Datalogit is dirt cheap and can work very well for you. there are lots of used components in the classifieds being sold by those who want the latest stuff. IF you know what you need you can buy pretty much anything at very friendly pricing. you do need to know exactly what is needed... not necessarily what you want.

it is a long challenging process. FDs are not a destination, rather a journey. do your homework. i suggest among other things you take a read of my site.

Coleman Precision Rotaries - Rotary Engine Rebuild, Turbochargers

 

you need to confirm which A/R V-band turbine housing the turbo has. Anything less than 1.05 likely isn’t going to work out too well on a budget pump gas build. The largest div T4 housing offered by Prevision is only 0.84 A/R. Not sure if a Garrett 30xx housing can be used. They would need to confirm.
.

 

@Howard Coleman Good stuff! Thanks man.

Definitely doing the research — that's why I'm here, picking the brains of folks who have been there, done that. Appreciate the link, I'll be sure to give your site a once-over. Cheers!

 

As above dont try and save money it will only Bite you in the ****. The 5862 works size wise but your not going to have a Big enough AR on the hotsides with the smaller precisions. That size turbo in a Borg warner gives you the S257sxe I make kits for this turbo as its a specific T4 fitment it has a ton of Hotside options too making it well suited to a Rotary. This is a street ported Engine on pump fuel 1.1BAR wich is almost maxing the Turbo out but this car ran out of fuel first Theres over 400 flywheel in them but that will be your lot. This is on a 1.09AR Stock coils greddy V mount Supporting mods Etc. For the money they come on Really well and pull all the way up without tapering off. Bang for Buck hard to beat them for low power cars.

Steve