shutting up a bridgeport exhaust
#1
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shutting up a bridgeport exhaust
The car is a half bridge with a aspec 500r turbo. I have been running it through my 4" exhaust and well... its way to freaking loud. Here is my idea to shut things up at cruise and for normalish driving. On the main exhaust line there would be an electric cut out blocking the flow completely. There would be a bypass around the valve using 2 or 2.5" piping. That flow would pass through a muffler then dump back in behind the valve. A boost pressure switch would be run to a relay that would have the power such that it make sure the valve would be in the closed position at under X pound of boost and it would open above that. A diagram is bellow.
A few questions.
1. If i keep the power on the relay, have the power set to close the valve when the valve is already closed, will this destroy the motor in the electric cutout. I emailed a company that makes cutouts i have yet to hear back from them.
2. will 2.5" piping be ok for the car at idle to say 6psi of boost?
3. If the electric cutout can not work for this, i would like to use a wastegate actuator to open/close the valve. How much travel do those actuators have? If i go this route, i will probably use a 6psi wastegate actuator, i can use a boost controller to raise the pressure at which it opens.
Any input on this idea would be great. If this is a bad idea please post alternatives
A few questions.
1. If i keep the power on the relay, have the power set to close the valve when the valve is already closed, will this destroy the motor in the electric cutout. I emailed a company that makes cutouts i have yet to hear back from them.
2. will 2.5" piping be ok for the car at idle to say 6psi of boost?
3. If the electric cutout can not work for this, i would like to use a wastegate actuator to open/close the valve. How much travel do those actuators have? If i go this route, i will probably use a 6psi wastegate actuator, i can use a boost controller to raise the pressure at which it opens.
Any input on this idea would be great. If this is a bad idea please post alternatives
#2
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oo, just found something:
They provide these specs:
Controls up to 2 QTECs
Calibrates each motor independently and synchronizes their position
Automatic close at power up
Digital status displays shows butterfly position
Manual pushbutton operation for open, close or partial open
User configurable partial open position
2 Memory preset partial open settings
Short circuit protection on motor drive electronics
Fault detection and reporting
Automatic open or close by grounding or not grounding the trigger wire (for use with Engine Management systems)
LED butterfly position status
0-100 0=Closed and 100=Wide Open
190 for the cutout, 126 for the controller. so 316 for the part+shipping
anything cheaper?
They provide these specs:
Controls up to 2 QTECs
Calibrates each motor independently and synchronizes their position
Automatic close at power up
Digital status displays shows butterfly position
Manual pushbutton operation for open, close or partial open
User configurable partial open position
2 Memory preset partial open settings
Short circuit protection on motor drive electronics
Fault detection and reporting
Automatic open or close by grounding or not grounding the trigger wire (for use with Engine Management systems)
LED butterfly position status
0-100 0=Closed and 100=Wide Open
190 for the cutout, 126 for the controller. so 316 for the part+shipping
anything cheaper?
#3
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oo, just found something:
They provide these specs:
Controls up to 2 QTECs
Calibrates each motor independently and synchronizes their position
Automatic close at power up
Digital status displays shows butterfly position
Manual pushbutton operation for open, close or partial open
User configurable partial open position
2 Memory preset partial open settings
Short circuit protection on motor drive electronics
Fault detection and reporting
Automatic open or close by grounding or not grounding the trigger wire (for use with Engine Management systems)
LED butterfly position status
0-100 0=Closed and 100=Wide Open
190 for the cutout, 126 for the controller. so 316 for the part+shipping
anything cheaper?
They provide these specs:
Controls up to 2 QTECs
Calibrates each motor independently and synchronizes their position
Automatic close at power up
Digital status displays shows butterfly position
Manual pushbutton operation for open, close or partial open
User configurable partial open position
2 Memory preset partial open settings
Short circuit protection on motor drive electronics
Fault detection and reporting
Automatic open or close by grounding or not grounding the trigger wire (for use with Engine Management systems)
LED butterfly position status
0-100 0=Closed and 100=Wide Open
190 for the cutout, 126 for the controller. so 316 for the part+shipping
anything cheaper?
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS
Its a nice piece from a reputable company and you can get it with the actuator if your choice in 2 psi increments if I am not mistaken....not to mention it will be way less complicated.....less chance of failure.
It can be purchased without the "Tee" for about 220.00.
Chris
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apeiron
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Wack,
it is only a 3" opening but this essentially makes your full 4" exhaust system obsolete.
This basically turns your downpipe into a large dump tube under boost and then when your "cruising" it shuts..
So in reality, you could run a normal exhaust with a high flow cat / resonator and then have this in and it will flow better than a 4" inch exhaust
I might have to look into this.... I wonder how difficult it is to tune a car with this mod
it is only a 3" opening but this essentially makes your full 4" exhaust system obsolete.
This basically turns your downpipe into a large dump tube under boost and then when your "cruising" it shuts..
So in reality, you could run a normal exhaust with a high flow cat / resonator and then have this in and it will flow better than a 4" inch exhaust
I might have to look into this.... I wonder how difficult it is to tune a car with this mod
#6
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I thought about the atp turbo dump. I do not want to run an open down pipe. I would like to keep the exhaust i have but keep it a bit quieter when im cruising. Apex'i makes a mechanical valve that goes inline with your exhaust. To quiet thigns down at cruies you just close the valve a bit. They offer an electric controller but it is 500$. I checked out a couple of these cutout companies, the main problem is that the valves take 3 to 4 seconds to open. This is way to slow.
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#11
rotorhead
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if you already have a resonator and the car is too loud for you, you simply made a bad decision to bridgeport your car. And the 4 inch exhaust isn't helping. That's the bottom line. It's a modded car, not some kind of Veyron or other such car that is both quiet and powerful/responsive from the factory.
People expect too much from hopped-up 20 year old cars...
People expect too much from hopped-up 20 year old cars...
#12
Engine, Not Motor
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Sounds like the Magnaflow part might suck then.
I have a 3" Vibrant "ultra quiet" resonator, and two straight through mufflers at the back. At cruising speed it's far more quiet then most of the ricer Hondas with fart cans.
I have a 3" Vibrant "ultra quiet" resonator, and two straight through mufflers at the back. At cruising speed it's far more quiet then most of the ricer Hondas with fart cans.
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