guys,
i just instaled my 3574 turbo on an aspec manifold that came with the kit and the turbine housing is only 1/16" away from the chasis .
if i push the engine by hand the mani hits the chasis
please i need your help!
what should i do?
if i leave it that way i supose that the housing will hit the side when i start the engine.
i try to move the engine mount aas i could to the left side but nothing hapens.
i am thinking to make engine mount bolts holes oval so to move the engine farther but thiss is too much work to remove and install again the subframe.
i also think to install a torque dumper and preload it as i can.what do you think of thhat?

i need your advise please and i apreciate your help!

thanks!

 

If your passenger side motor mount is in bad shape, it can lean the engine considerably towards the framerail

 

the engine mount is choosen from a few i have and it is in a good shape.
what if i put a shim underneath or make the subframe holes oval?
is this a problem if the engine rotates a bit on its axis or move left?
thanks.
i canot think what else went wrong besides wrong combination of housing and manifold.

 

Seems like you want to rotate ("tilt") the motor a few degrees. Wedge shaped spacers come to mind. but there might be another (simpler) way. Is the motor currently level?

 

torque brace?

 

yes,torque brsce would helped a lot but i still need to make the gap a litle biger.i supose a 1/4" clearence is ok?with torque brace, do i still have some flexibility and engine movement,wright?
how to check if the engine is leveled?

anyone with the same kit?
thanks!

 

Somewhat extreme, but you could also consider machining the face of the manifold engine flange to get another 1/16". How thick is it?

Note the exhaust (and intake) manifold flange should be vertical in a "well aligned" engine.

 

Guys,
the engine is tilted towards the pasengers side.the engine mount is compresed and it is shorter that the drivers about 1/8" .
i think this is the problem. i didn t think that a mount must have a specific length. i saw that it was in a good shape externaly and i installed it without any other thought. my mistake.
you helped a lot and i apreciate it.

now i am thinking to purchase or make my own polyurethane mounts but the common desighn i found for the rx7 makes me think the engine noise.
i noticed that the most rx7 engine mounts out there is a piece of polyurethane and a bolt through it.
my questions:
1)how do i get the bolt tight if when i keep tighten it the length sortens?
2)i assume that the nut is imposible to tighten it as much as a normal mount. if i do not tighten the nut too much to distort the material then, is the mout safe?
3)is the polyutrethane strong enouth in time?
4) some guys add a second smaller piece of polyurethan on top of the steel mount. yes that way i eliminate or minimize the transmited noise sinse the steel mount is completely isolated between the poly rings.what is your opinions about that?

5)also thinking a simplest solution to keep mine OEM mounts and simply add washer beneath to raise the pasenger side. but i do not know how durable is the OEM compared to the poly.

what do you think is the best solution? i still have two more mounts that one is smaller 1/8 than the other but externaly is mint.


thanks very mush again.

 

bfh! problem solved

 

Not sure if you got the same kit as me but I bought a kit from A-spec last year and I couldn't install the turbo because it was hitting my frame like so:





I'm a way's away from being able to get it on here



Turbo is a precision 6262 with a 0.84a/r

Not ideal but I ended up having to put a bigass dimple into my car in order to fit the turbo. You can sort of see it here



The downpipe isn't lined up because there was an issue with one of A-spec's jigs and the downpipe was hitting my transmission, but in the end I sent the downpipe back to A-spec and they re-welded it. Said they would but never reimbursed me for my shipping cost though

Mounts are also brand new Himni poly mounts

 

Stop looking for band-aid solutions. Send it BACK and get the issue resolved.

 

It's a shame you wait months for this especially when you pay for quality.

Jack

 

took me a lot of months to get my kit too, I think I paid for the kit in August 09 but the kit didn't fully arrive (including replacing a faulty FPR) until May of 2010.

That being said, I really love my final product.

 

if i bolt averything the gap is about 1/16".
i dont have the problem like the pic #3. i also have bad engine mount on the passengers side.
if i replace the mount with new i do not think to have problem anymore.
my major concern is that i need to disasemble the subframe again to change the mount.
with all that work i am thinking if it is a good idea to upgrade to poly mounts.

guys, is the durometer 90A too solid?

i ordered the kit april 10 and i get it end of 10.

 

I don't think 90a is too hard, mine is 80a and feels stock.

 

I had similar problems with my short manifold A-Spec kit, as did other kit suppliers a few years ago. It was "known" that you may have to take a hammer to the metal and bend it to your will.

So many variable with old cars with old parts.

 

You can remove the stock engine mounts without dropping the subframe.
Remove the turbo IC hoses, loosen the nuts holding the mounts to the subframe, jack up the engine/trans watching for other hoses or lines being stretch,
loosen and remove the mounts.


I remove and install engines without the mounts attached as it gives about 4" more clearance and makes it easier to align to the trans.