squealy

iTrader: (12)

Porting allows you to move greater amounts of air, fuel, and spent exhaust. It's similar to moving to a high performance cam on a piston engine. It changes the duration & timing of intake and exhaust port opening/closing.

It should allow you to spool a larger turbo at a significantly lower RPM depending on your porting, but it could also mean that you can't ever meet emissions requirements, and normal street drivability may suffer. 400-ish on stock ports is achievable with a moderately sized turbo, appropriate fuelling, cooling, etc. I'd consider meth injection.

I don't think there's anything wrong with running a journal bearing turbo. They seem to spool just a bit later, but they cost a lot less, are cheap to rebuild, and any local turbo shop can do it. If you take care of them properly (let them spool down after being on them hard, maybe use a turbo timer to help minimize oil coking) they'll last a long time. Rebuilding ball bearing turbos generally involves buying a new CHRA, which is often most of the way to the cost of a new turbo by the time you're done.

As far as internals go... there's not much to change.

squealy

iTrader: (12)

If you're looking for 400 hp you could get away with a precision 6262 and have better response. I'm shooting for just under that power level. Mine is a precision 5862. Slightly smaller cold side, so it should spool quicker than the 6262. They don't list it on their website though, you'd have to call them and order it specifically or go through a-spec tuning. The nice thing is with the 5862, you can send it back if you don't like it and change out the cold side so you have a 6262.

SP_Rocket

Yeah I understand. What port should I do If I want to drive my car everyday and still want good mpg? Just a regular street port or would a mild street port be ok?

SP_Rocket

What's the difference between the 6262 and 6266? Reason I ask is I don't want to push my car or turbo to its limits to reach 400hp that doesn't seem like it would be reliable, I figured if I pushed it to half of it's limit it'll last a bit longer.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Stick to a street port. You are over thinking this. All of the turbos listed will do just fine. The only one you probably don't want to run is the 5862.

Here is an awesome deal on a GTX3582R we took in on trade. We will sell the turbo outright for $1400.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post11648149

This turbo makes 400rwhp @ 14/15psi in my experience with minimal lag.

The 6265,6266, GT3574, or TDX61 are all basically the same, and are better suited for 18+psi( 450+rwhp) over the 5862,6262, GT35R,GTX35R, TDX57R( they are all better below 15psi)

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

The GT3574 is a turbo I started to produce back in 04-05 that utilizes a 35R compressor wheel mated to a larger P-trim turbine wheel, stated in Precision terms it would be a 6165. They are excellent performing turbo's. That said for me it's a hard sell because for the same price I can sell a 6266 which is basically the same size but with a more efficient compressor and a more efficient turbine. Are they good turbo's still? Sure. I just try and get you the most value for the money spent and the 6266 will outperform my older 3574R.

A 6262 is a good choice, but limited. I had asked precision to start making me 5866's awhile back and they did for me, they are not listed correct. I believe the 5862's however are. My reasoning was simple. Precision only has the .8 A/r turbine for the 62mm wheel. This means a smallish turbine on a smallish A/r. I've been pushing precision to start making 1.0 divided housings for the 62mm wheel specifically for the rotary guys. I may be lucky and have some of those housings made soon.

The difference between the two 6262 and 6266 is the turbine wheel. One is a 68 inducer 62 exducer turbine, the other is a 75 inducer and 66 exducer turbine.

~S~

SP_Rocket

I think I may just go with precision then. That and i like the fact that I don't need water cooling lines on it. So to start off I think I'm sticking with the stock port and the precision 6266 turbo. Until it's time to actually tear down the motor then ill go with a street port and that turbo. And with that ill shoot for 18-20 psi.
Now that I've decided on that I have to figure out what ecu, size injectors, fuel pump etc.
Thanks everyone!

squealy

iTrader: (12)

For fuel I went with turblown's recommendation for lots of headroom and good driveability. Stock primary injectors, ID2000's for secondaries and an aeromotive 340lph pump. The id2000's are plug and play, no resistors required. Adaptronic's ecu would be the cat's pajamas from what I hear but I'll be sticking with my PowerFC since I already have one. They're considerably less expensive.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

FWIW, I have the BB 6266 turbo .84ar on my FC with a stock engine. I've been running it happily with pre turbo meth injection for several months now. I have noticed that the compressor has a slight scratching sound if I spin it with the engine off that it never made when it was first installed but I haven't noticed a difference in performance. Perhaps pre turbo injection may be a little harsh for this turbo.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Hows the car feeling overall are you happy with the response and whatnot?

~S~

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

Overall I'm very satisfied. The car is a little on the laggy side at the moment but I'm thinking it's because of my tune, at the moment I see full boost (around 1 bar) right after 4k rpms. But the power on a low compression motor at such a low boost level is impressive. Pretty much just have to feather 1st and 2nd gear once the boost comes in on a cool night.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

That definitely seems a bit off for that A/r. Usually we are getting the 1bar mark around 3700rpm+/- on well sorted cars.

~S~

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Just got a car running with a 6766 and it definitely wont be producing 1 bar at 3700rpm more like 4500rpm.