Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

Precision 6266 question/help?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-19-13, 07:34 PM
  #1  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Precision 6266 question/help?

Hey guys wondering if you can help me out? I have gone through a lot of threads and even googled this but I can't seem to find anything on this. I understand the 6266 is only air cooled and was wondering is that ok on a rotary? I have a fd rx7 and I have not chosen a turbo yet. It was out of the gtx35r, efr, and the precision 6266. I'm leaning more towards the 6266 for my goals but I am finding out its not water cooled? I drive my car everyday and sometimes out of town. Will that turbo be fine or run hot all the time? (I also like to get on the throttle here and there if that helps).
Old 12-19-13, 09:30 PM
  #2  
Senior Member

 
Vicoor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Manassas
Posts: 434
Received 15 Likes on 11 Posts
The ball bearing version of precision turbos are air cooled I am currently doing build using a ball bearing 6266.

You can get a journal bearing version that is water cooled.
Old 12-19-13, 10:40 PM
  #3  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Why is that??

Ill probably end up going with the ball bearing.
Old 12-20-13, 11:55 AM
  #4  
Pistion to rotary
iTrader: (2)
 
Grinch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: sioux falls
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This is false, pte dose not have water cooled lines. I just sold my 6266 job for a turblown tdx67 so can get water lines.
Old 12-20-13, 12:35 PM
  #5  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Why did you trade to turblown on that? Was the turbo running too hot?
Just curious because I haven't gotten a turbo yet, still deciding.
Old 12-20-13, 03:57 PM
  #6  
Pistion to rotary
iTrader: (2)
 
Grinch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: sioux falls
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I never ran it, was brand new. People say this motors run hot and I plan to do some track days and moved up to a 67mm at same time. Idk if you would any problems with the pte.
Old 12-20-13, 05:31 PM
  #7  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh alright, thanks anyway.
Old 12-20-13, 08:13 PM
  #8  
Pistion to rotary
iTrader: (2)
 
Grinch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: sioux falls
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Turblown has a nice tdx61 that be equal to a 6266 if you want water cooled lines.
Old 12-20-13, 09:39 PM
  #9  
Full Member
iTrader: (12)
 
jkep21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I was always told to stay away from precision turbos. I was told by my builder who saw too many problems and what was called quality issues. Why not get a borg warner? They have a good record and are cheap to rebuild if things go wrong?
Old 12-21-13, 01:12 AM
  #10  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jkep21
I was always told to stay away from precision turbos. I was told by my builder who saw too many problems and what was called quality issues. Why not get a borg warner? They have a good record and are cheap to rebuild if things go wrong?
Well I'm not completely sold on a turbo yet, I'm just trying to find out what's a good solid reliable turbo. I drive my car everyday and sometimes out of town, also I like to get on the gas here and there (I have Hondas left and right revving as loud as they can trying to get my attention lol) anyways yeah I'm stuck between the tdx61 by turblown, gtx35r by Garrett, and I keep hearing the efr series are good (not sure which one to get) and then the precision 6266. I hear good and bad things about all turbos which makes me so iffy.
Old 12-21-13, 05:36 PM
  #11  
Junior Member

 
Mad666max's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Montreal
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Anyone using the bb version? Any reviews? Any durability issue?
Old 12-21-13, 06:13 PM
  #12  
Pistion to rotary
iTrader: (2)
 
Grinch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: sioux falls
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Tdx61 is a gt35r size turbo, Jacobmillcart runs a 6262 on his fd and road course it and hasn't had any issues with his.
Old 12-21-13, 06:51 PM
  #13  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Grinch
Tdx61 is a gt35r size turbo, Jacobmillcart runs a 6262 on his fd and road course it and hasn't had any issues with his.
So the precision turbos are good and reliable?
Are they also rebuild able? Just in case anything were to go wrong.
Old 12-22-13, 09:20 AM
  #14  
Junior Member

 
Mad666max's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Montreal
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Subbed
Old 12-23-13, 11:28 PM
  #15  
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
IRPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 11,347
Received 317 Likes on 190 Posts
We ran a 6266 ball bearing for over a year with no issues. Changed only to go with a larger turbo. Technically it is oil cooled. it really depends on the design of the turbo. Some ball bearing turbos like the Garrett GT series MUST be water cooler. I have found however that a water cooled turbo tends to last longer, but nothing wrong with it if the turbo is designed that way.
Old 12-24-13, 06:40 AM
  #16  
Junior Member

 
Mad666max's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Montreal
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Is bb rebuildable? And the journal bearing one?
Old 12-24-13, 10:31 AM
  #17  
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
IRPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 11,347
Received 317 Likes on 190 Posts
All turbos are technically "rebuildable". You might just have to purchase the chra.
Old 12-25-13, 03:04 PM
  #18  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So not to change the topic completely but I kind of want to go with the precision buuuut before I do that and go single turbo do I have to rebuild the internals? Make the engine stronger? And how do you get more power out of the engine, or are all the rotors pretty much the same output just stronger material?
Old 12-25-13, 10:35 PM
  #19  
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
IRPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 11,347
Received 317 Likes on 190 Posts
Really depends on the condition of the motor you have. For a single turbo car we almost always go with a Stage 3 aggressive street port and extra clearancing for all the seals and bearings. I generally don't like stock apex seals. Its not a matter of them not holding boost, but the fact that one knock can break one and trash the motor. We prefer RX Parts seals. For a 500 whp car we recommend a stud kit such as Turblown's. You don't strengthen the rotors. Besides bolt on modifications, more power is achieved through porting (similar to putting a cam in a piston motor), or running more boost/larger turbo.
Old 12-25-13, 10:40 PM
  #20  
Just in time to die

iTrader: (1)
 
Zero R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: look behind you
Posts: 4,143
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Do you have to "upgrade" the engine? No, it would be advisable to do certain things if you intend to shoot for mid 400's but if your intention is 400whp +/- your stock engine will be fine. If you intend to go for more ideally minor things would need to be done (2 piece apex seals and some minor clearancing) for reliability at that power level. The main concern is the three piece apex seal.

~S~

Last edited by Zero R; 12-25-13 at 10:43 PM.
Old 12-26-13, 02:44 PM
  #21  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Zero R
Do you have to "upgrade" the engine? No, it would be advisable to do certain things if you intend to shoot for mid 400's but if your intention is 400whp +/- your stock engine will be fine. If you intend to go for more ideally minor things would need to be done (2 piece apex seals and some minor clearancing) for reliability at that power level. The main concern is the three piece apex seal.

~S~
So is there a way to actually make more power from the engine itself? Of course I would have a single turbo but is there any equivalency for rotaries to make more power just like if you "cam" a v8 engine etc? Or for rotaries is porting all you can do?
Old 12-26-13, 03:35 PM
  #22  
Just in time to die

iTrader: (1)
 
Zero R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: look behind you
Posts: 4,143
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Unfortunately for rotaries it's porting. If you intend to stay with a responsive 400whp+/- setup, run water injection, keep the boost moderate, and with a good tune and fuel the car will last you until you're ready for port work. Once you are at that point you then need to decide how "far" you want to go. Once you start to step over 500whp you start to need to look at a few other things as mentioned. A 400whp FD is ripping fast, very fun car. Too many people have become jaded because 4klb tanks with 600hp from the factory are becoming the norm and honestly aren't much faster and arguably aren't as fun. They just see the 600hp number so it must be a better experience.

~S~
Old 12-26-13, 05:19 PM
  #23  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Zero R
Unfortunately for rotaries it's porting. If you intend to stay with a responsive 400whp+/- setup, run water injection, keep the boost moderate, and with a good tune and fuel the car will last you until you're ready for port work. Once you are at that point you then need to decide how "far" you want to go. Once you start to step over 500whp you start to need to look at a few other things as mentioned. A 400whp FD is ripping fast, very fun car. Too many people have become jaded because 4klb tanks with 600hp from the factory are becoming the norm and honestly aren't much faster and arguably aren't as fun. They just see the 600hp number so it must be a better experience.

~S~
Exactly! My dad and I are having a build off my 93 fd with hoping 400 whp vs his nova that is all decked out for 1/4 racing with like 500hp. And thank you for clearing that up for me, I figured porting is pretty much all you can do but wasn't too sure. I don't really know what each different porting does? Or if there's even light weight, strong rotors to replace the old internals.
Old 12-26-13, 11:01 PM
  #24  
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
IRPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 11,347
Received 317 Likes on 190 Posts
A-spec 3574 would probably be about perfect for you for a 400whp goal.
Old 12-26-13, 11:29 PM
  #25  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
SP_Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Rotary Experiment Seven
A-spec 3574 would probably be about perfect for you for a 400whp goal.
I was looking to run a turbo about 15-20 psi and get around 400 whp. I was directed to the gtx35r, tdx61, or a precision 6266. Something fast spooling with great power, I love low end power too. What turbo is the a spec 3574?


Quick Reply: Precision 6266 question/help?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:49 PM.