Like the title says. And is it worth the money just upgrading the exhaust housing and keeping the same wheel trim? ( say 200-250$ with a v-band flange ) Current turbo produces 1.3 bar by 4700-4800 rpm during a 4th gear pull starting from 3000rpms.

thanks
chuck

 

Not to be off topic, but I use to live on Yokota. As for the A/R change, you'll get MORE top end with the change.

 

You should come back to SA is what you should do. I miss you Chuck.

 

With your bridge it would help with the topend alot...

.96 is pretty small for a bridge ported motor, I was going to go with a 1.35 on th hotside with my 1/2 bridge FD, but I sold it...

 

Reason I ask about the a/r change is, I raced a 600+hp supra from a dead stop and did good from 1st through 3rd gear. He did catch me in the start/middle of 4th gear, then we had to stop. We both had traction problems at the start but I think he had more. I launched at 4000rpms and by the sound of his motor he launched around 7000rpms. pm me your e-mail if you want to see the incar video. 7mb.
If I go with a 1.15 a/r would my chances be better against the supra through 4th gear with out loosing to much in the lower gears?
Thanks
chuck

 

Dude thats badass that u beat a 600+ single turbo supra. I have a couple waiting for me when my car gets tuned. I cant wait to lay the smack down...................


Matt

 

put the video on putfile.com

It's Free and easy.

 

<a href='http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=sleeper7-vs-supra'>Click here to watch 'sleeper7-vs-supra'</a>

I've been running really rich with 10's plugs. So I leaned it out and went with stock trailing plugs. I leaned it out to much in the higher rpm range. you can hear the motor lean out and see the afrs go lean in third gear. I think if the afr was better in 3rd gear it would have been a better race. Once I noticed it lean out in third gear he was at my side and only ran 4th gear a very short time. Thought the motor was gone. Drove two hours home with out any problems. KNOCK ON WOOD!!!!!!
Love them Atkins seals.
chuck

 

that supra belongs to Rob, one of the guys who hangs out at the auto hobby shop here on Yokosuka. nice video shot of a Supra where it belongs in back!

kenn

 

any more video?

 

yeah a 1.15 on your hotside will help with topend.

I got a question, why aren't you revving to 9k rpm?

my 1/2 bridge pulled even harder the higher up it went, 7-9k was crazy fast and i was at 10 psi with stock turbos.... i had planned to go to 9,500 but i was out of fuel and i ended up selling the car.

 

<a href='http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=MOV00020' target='_blank'>Click here to watch 'MOV00020'</a>

same race differant view.

No longer bridge. Just a street port. Notice the idle at the begining fo the video. Motor idles at 1000rpms.
chuck

 

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... that'd do it....

well you know what you have to do right?

bridge port that bad boy...

 

if you just have a street port I would not go to a 1.15

 

Keep in mind the 1.15 A/R housings are divided. Your running a .96 which is not divided. The only non divided size bigger that I know of in un-divided is a WAY HUGE 1.71 A/R. So you'll need to get/build another manifold thats divided if you want a 1.15 or 1.32 housings because they only come in divided. OR you can up the turbine wheel trim to a Q, R or S trim and stick with the .96 open valute turbine and current mani. you will however need to get your turbine bored or buy one with the proper bore for the larger turbine. Another thing to keep in mind is going up A/R in turbine shifts your powerband higher, so expect lower/mid loses and a slower spool.

~Mike..............

 

Have you considered changing wheel trims like an S-trim and keeping the .96? You'll have good flow at the top end with good spool up. Just a thought.

 

^Guess you didn't read my post^


~Mike..............

 

Yeah but if you look at the time we posted you at 8:05 and me at 8:06 we were probably typing at the same time.

Sorry to get off topic Chuck.

 

mine says 11:05 and 11:06

oops, I guess I didn't spot that

 

Yeah I went back and read your post and I'd go the route of changing wheel trims probably most cost efficient vice getting a new exhaust manifold and all. I run a .96 S-trim from Precision Turbo it's a PT74GTS-H don't ask me what the -H is that's the turbo my friend who is helping me with my car told me to get. It's the same turbo he runs and he says he is getting full boost before 5g's on the tach hits. The thing is I don't understand why everyone is saying go with a bridge port motor. I know there are plenty of cars producing over 500rwhp on streetports and I would imagine tuneabiltity would be easier with a streetport. I don't know that's just what I would imagine.

 

I agree with the street port. Although you can make a great deal more power with a half bridge in both mid and top end using less boost, tuning is a bitch and what you don't see too often people talking about is the low load or cruising with a half bridge, they tend to be finiky and like to buck and miss although I do know a few tricks to eliminate this, later injection times being one.

If he does up the trim on the turbine, he will still need to go through the expense of another turbine housing or have it bored for the bigger wheel.

~Mike...........

 

So in your opinion which would be the lesser of two evils, which one would in your opinion be better? Changing the trim and machining the turbine housing or getting a new exhaust manifold and going to a 1.15ar turbine housing.

 

personally, I would build me a fully divided tubular manifold and go with a 1.00 A/R turbine with a Q trim wheel for the large power goals he has and the hunger of air that a bridge wants to inhale and expell. I think this would have better spool and better top end then what he's running now.

As far as the lesser evils and saving a buck. Go with a larger trim turbine and get or bore the appropriet turbine and keep the mani at expense of spool and power, but to save a few $$

But as of now, all I have going on is a large street port, custom building my tubular manifold for my 1.00 A/R extrude honed and ceramic coated 3.5" cast in v-band turbine with a Mar-M GT P-trim wheel, full ball bearing, 60-1 comp with a ported .7 A/R T04S comp cover. I'm hoping for full boost by 3500 RPM and to make 430 whp @ 15~17 psi. I have a lot of work yet to do.

~Mike...........

 

Outstanding !!!!

 

Thank you guys for the information. Looks like I am going with a bigger exhaust wheel. PT72GTS .96 /ar turbo. (Someone close by has one for sale for, 1250$) It is bigger then I wanted but I will give it a try. If the street port does not spool this thing I will break out the bridge port end plates.
Again thanks
chuck