Good fella, was that an SAE #? The reason I ask is because it was pretty cold there when you guys dyno'd. I have mapped a 1hp/*Faranhiet increase in rwhp in my car. Not trying to take away, just want a frame of reference. Did he get his car back together? What caused the motor to let go? I believe nocab has stated similar #s as well.
Anyway, There is no doubt that these guys have made excellent #s, and built awsome cars, but why no posted SAE dynos? We've all heard the "the car was not built so I could post dyno for you", but I would think these guys would be proud to post their graphs. Anyway, great turbo, great cars, great guys, have a good weekend. Carl

 

I also noticed the blue silicone hose for the oil feed line. DO NOT use that. The oil line is pressurized and the oil will be hot. That thing is going to either pop or melt very quickly. My 35/40 kit came with a braided ss oil feed line. Pick up some an-6 ss line and some Earl's fittings. I also did my coolant lines in ss and Earl's. The only thing is you can't replace the fitting that actually screws into the turbo. On my kit I notoced that fitting sealed like it had the last few threads shaved off. I originally tried screwing in an Earl's fitting directly into the turbo but it wouldn't work. I left that piece alone (don't know what its called) and mated an Earl's fitting to it. The oil drain line I left rubber for the time being.

 

I did 470 rwhp at 20 psi that day. It was backed up by a 468 rwhp run. I had a few gallons of 93 in there and dumped in like 5 or 6 gallons of c16. Honestly, I wasn't too impressed by the results. I was happy at first, but think it should have made more. The car ran great for a while. I never ran more than 16 psi on pump gas. One weekend I was running 18 psi on Sunoco GT 100. Car didn't feel as strong as it should have, but not too bad. A few days later I was cruising to go to the gym. I had the boost controller set at 10 psi and I still had the 100 octane in there. I went to pass another car so I downshifted to 3rd and got on it. I heard a slight hesitation, but no knocking. I thought the plugs fouled out. I tried again and it hesitated and the lost power. When the motor was torn down I found the front housing, front rotor housing, intermediate housing, and both rotors were destroyed. The front detonated badly and sent a 3mm seal scraping along the rotor. Also broke another seal in the front rotor, probably from the first seal colliding with it. There were large chunks of apex seal imbeded in the rotor and a dent like someone wacked it with a hammer. The rear rotor looked ok at first, but closer inspection showed a small dent near the apex, and that seal was sticking slightly. I think that happened at some other point in time, and thats why it was down on power. Maybe when the car overboosted to 20 psi while I was on break in due to somoeone's sloppy boost controller install. The wire to the profec stepping motor was dangling behing the motor and got frayed. The turbo exhaust wheel was badly chewed up. I checked the entire fuel system and anything else I could think of. I finally uploaded my pfc maps and found a -2 degree timing split in the cell that corresponds to 10 psi and 7000 rpm. Turns out it was not my fault at all, but tuner error. Unfortuneatly I coudln't prove anything, so I walked away. I built my new motor and ported it myself, with a little help and supervision. I ported it much bigger and cleaner than the previous port job I recieved. I did it myself, becauseI am tired of paying countless dollars to so called "experts" only to keep losing motors. If I mess up, then I only have myself to blame. Motor is installed, I just need to put the tranny back in. I am aiming for 500 rwhp at 20 psi. If I have to I'll try more boost. I'll post results as soon as I dyno.

 

Sorry about the tuner thing, Mine is just the opposite, I screwed up, but careful tuning (not by me)saved me. I installed an AVCR without letting it vent to atmosphere, my first WOT run I hit 2 Bar, luckily my E6k maps were good to 30psi. Anyway, I talk alot of **** considering I only made 296@15 psi. The car now runs 20 psi all the time on 103 octane unleaded. I always tune, and trouble shoot with straight race gas in the tank. It has saved my *** more than once . did you do a streetport, or a BP? I think I am going top try a BP next time around. Keep me posted, glad to here things are moving forward. Carl

 

I wanted to do a ahlf bridge, but I want to keep it streetable and get some life out of the motor. I don't want to spend 20 min trying to start it like some race cars.

 

what turbo are you running Carl?

 

I'm running a TO4S, .60 cover, .85 p trim hot. It is like having a V8, instant boost at any rpm. Problem is it is small, and cannot make decent power up top. It is good for mid 12s at 114mph with a road race suspension, and RA1 tires. I am going to change to either a T66, TO4R, or a PT67H. These should all be good for 500rwhp in a 1.00-1.15 ar Q trim. I like the 3540, but the T3 flange really limits me down the road. Lots of cheap T4 flange turbos out there. Also the repair costs concern me on the 3540. I will eventually go to a BP with a T51(I think). See ya, Carl

 

Guys he has a braided SS oil feed line, look at the pic.

 

Now that I look more closely, I can see the silicone hose goes to something else. Sorry.

 

My rebuild cartridge cost me $900 and some change including shipping from Australia. The good thing is it is like getting a new turbo.

 

Allen was on the dyno the other night and was making 14.5 psi of boost. Sounds like he could turn it up to 17 or whatever he feels comfortable with and make a buttload more HP. Allen, what injector setup are you running and are you going to turn up the boost? If so, drop me a line, I'd like to watch.

Tim

 

Does anyone have a compressor map for the GT35/40 turbo? If so, could they post or maybe email it to me? PM me if you have it.

Thanks
OJ

 

I believe this is the compressor map for it.

 

Lets try this again