Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I've ran into a problem, where to mount my two coolant sensors.

I was thinking, either mount them in the blue t fitting or at the top of the radiator.

If you have any suggestions, please let me know. I thought about mounting them in the radiator, but I wasn't sure how well that would work out.

See the Blue T-Fitting. I would tap on the top and bottom of that and mount the sensors.

Or, have bungs welded to the top of the rad and mount them there.

astrochild7

iTrader: (3)

drooling, soon to be in your shoes..

zinx

iTrader: (3)

Can you tap those silver angle AN pieces coming out of the motor? It would be nice to see the temp of the water directly out of the motor and then how much it is cooled when heading back in.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I don't think I can mount those sensors in the AN Fittings, plus I'm sure I'd end up ruining them. Stupid high dollar fittings

I've been emailing back and forth with Carlos Iglesias, he mounted his sensors at the hot point in his radiator and has reported good results.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Which sensors are you using?

I'm presuming its the GM ones with the haltech. Either way, if its a smaller sending unit, mount it in the rear iron where the stock temp gauge was. If its the big haltech babies, use an adapter and mount it back there.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

What size are the fittings coming directly out of the motor? -12AN?

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...auge!_Adapters

The gauge adapters on the above page are only up to -8AN, but maybe somewhere makes something like these, only bigger...

Just a thought.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

It looks like the ol' GM Sensor. Right now, the rear iron is used for my aftermarket Coolant Temp Gauge.

Then, on the old coolant housing. There was the GM Sensor, and another little sensor which I would imagine is the Fan Switch ?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

-16 fittings and hose. I've looked everywhere and special -16 adapters and fittings are impossible to find.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I even thought about running a inline hose filler right out of the motor, then taping into it. My problem is that it would come too close to the turbo.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

I plan on welding some scrap bar with decent thickness inbetween 2 weld-on fittings and putting it inline of the coolant outlet from the engine.

Pretty much what is in that pic above, just without the filler neck, and with a nice flat area to tap the sensors into.

Busted7

Eric just get a small amount of alum. pipe the size of the out let on the block before the an fitting thread it and put the senser in the pipe. Its npt thread any plumber has pipe tap!

Do you follow what im trying to say?

Busted7

put pipe nipples out of block before the an fittings. Aluminum pipe threaded with fittings welded on.

You have pm!

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I've decided to weld bungs at the inlet of the radiator and mount the sensors there. Carlos Iglesias has assured me that location will work just fine.

RX72NR

iTrader: (1)

Lookin great, what's the flow rate of your waterpump and would you recommend going electric w.p. for street use/daily driving? I'm toying with the idea of getting the Meziere 55gph pump and their radiator with the mounting holes already included. What alternator bracket are you using? Xtreme Rotaries?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I'm using the Meziere Adapter. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't. This has been in a pain in the ***. $1,000+ down the drain for a stupid waterpump that wasn't needed.

Marcel Burkett

Lol , thats why I kept the pump / thermostat housing , it gets a lot more complicated when you opt to loose the assembly and run that little plate adapter thing.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Filled everything up with coolant, but I got a problem. I can’t burp this sucker for nothing.

The radiator sits under the front bumper at a slant, so I can’t fill it from the normal location. I’m using a fill tank that’s plummed into the top of the radiator. The vent also runs into the nipple on that fill tank.

How can I burp this sucker ?

Also, both coolant nipples on the block are capped.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I use a vacume bleeding system from snap on I'm sure you can find a cheap one at the auto parts store it suckes out all the air and uses a vacume to pull the coolant all the way in iv used it so many time and never had air left in the system it has definatly paid it self off takes less then five minutes to bleed the whole system and you dont have a mess or the car even hot

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

My buddy had one, expensive as heck I remember. Also, I don't have a compressor

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

where are you filling it from?

Find the highest point in the system and open it, even it means cracking a fitting loose. Then let the pump do the work while you keep topping up?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Pretty sure my fill tank is the highest point, I left the cap off and let the waterpump run for about an hour yesterday. But, the sound from the pump makes me think that there are bubs in the system. It's just not a steady sound coming from the pump. The nipple from the back plate on top of the motor, maybe I need to take the cap off that and let it run for a bit.

Hmmm

NOPR

theres no reason why that shouldnt work unless its somehow on the otherside (cold side?) of the thermostat, but i dont even see a thermostat?

as long is its in one place that is consistent, you can just tune to compensate.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

This is how I've got it setup. You're right, no thermostat. Atleast not yet.

NOPR

just make sure the sensor is on the engine (hot?) side of the thermostat and it will be fine. i just made up this whole hot/cold side business, but its the only way i can think to describe it.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

It's at the top of the radiator, the top of the radiator is where coolant flows from the motor to the radiator. So, the sensor is located roughly .5 inch from the -16 bung.