OK...I'm in need of some help
OK...I'm in need of some help
Hey guys. I tried to search to find an answer but come up with nothing like my scenario, that I could find anyway
I installed a T60-1 single turbo setup on my car last year and my stock engine failed before i even got my full tune completed on it. Was hoping to just play for the summer then do a rebuild but found myself taking the engine out way sooner. At any rate, I rebuilt the engine over the winter. All new HD seals and springs, solid corner seals, 3mm Apex seals, new housings and did a medium streetport. Got the engine back in the car, checked all my stuff over and over then started her up. The car started like I never took out the engine. Freaked me out! The part of my tune that still needed adjustment was the idle. It is still rich running at 11.4 or so. I have 850 Primary injectors. Ya i know they are a lot.
So now I have gotten enough miles on the new motor to get it fully tuned to run full boost(14-15psi) and am currently only running 10psi. But as I have been running the engine it is gradually getting harder to start. I make great vacuum and did a compression test last night and was hitting 40-45 on the bounces and 120 peak with a typical compression gauge. According to rotary ressurection that is great compression...thank god! And this is a hot test as well. Tried changing the plugs too with no change at all.
So I'm wondering if any of you guys have had a similar problem and had a simple fix for it? Wishful thinking i know but I'm kinda lost right now. I was thinking that maybe there is an issue with a plate i have blocked off on emission stuff with that is giving me the problem from boosting it over time and giving me a leak? I have a serious hunting idle problem which i have tried to get rid of by setting up the TB manually and not using the ISC but either way it still hunts. Gawd thats annoying! I tried a different ISC that I borrowed from a shop that had an FD there and yielded the same result.
Any direction as for something else to check would be greatly appreciated! Here the skinny on the parts
New engine with 600 miles All new seals and housings with streetport
850/1600's with KG parts secondary fuel rail
Aeromotive FPR with gauge
Stainless OM Lines
T60-1 single turbo
HKS Twin Power IGN
Vmount IC
Koyo Rad
Power FC
B9EGV plugs
I installed a T60-1 single turbo setup on my car last year and my stock engine failed before i even got my full tune completed on it. Was hoping to just play for the summer then do a rebuild but found myself taking the engine out way sooner. At any rate, I rebuilt the engine over the winter. All new HD seals and springs, solid corner seals, 3mm Apex seals, new housings and did a medium streetport. Got the engine back in the car, checked all my stuff over and over then started her up. The car started like I never took out the engine. Freaked me out! The part of my tune that still needed adjustment was the idle. It is still rich running at 11.4 or so. I have 850 Primary injectors. Ya i know they are a lot.
So now I have gotten enough miles on the new motor to get it fully tuned to run full boost(14-15psi) and am currently only running 10psi. But as I have been running the engine it is gradually getting harder to start. I make great vacuum and did a compression test last night and was hitting 40-45 on the bounces and 120 peak with a typical compression gauge. According to rotary ressurection that is great compression...thank god! And this is a hot test as well. Tried changing the plugs too with no change at all.
So I'm wondering if any of you guys have had a similar problem and had a simple fix for it? Wishful thinking i know but I'm kinda lost right now. I was thinking that maybe there is an issue with a plate i have blocked off on emission stuff with that is giving me the problem from boosting it over time and giving me a leak? I have a serious hunting idle problem which i have tried to get rid of by setting up the TB manually and not using the ISC but either way it still hunts. Gawd thats annoying! I tried a different ISC that I borrowed from a shop that had an FD there and yielded the same result.
Any direction as for something else to check would be greatly appreciated! Here the skinny on the parts
New engine with 600 miles All new seals and housings with streetport
850/1600's with KG parts secondary fuel rail
Aeromotive FPR with gauge
Stainless OM Lines
T60-1 single turbo
HKS Twin Power IGN
Vmount IC
Koyo Rad
Power FC
B9EGV plugs
Try premixing 1oz per gal with senthetic 2 cycle and see what happens!
It wont hurt anything and may help the seal on start up. If by chance it helps i would premix only which i do.
Are you sure those compression reading are good i have an 8.5 rotor set up and i get 90/90/90 on cold crank?
It wont hurt anything and may help the seal on start up. If by chance it helps i would premix only which i do.
Are you sure those compression reading are good i have an 8.5 rotor set up and i get 90/90/90 on cold crank?
http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html
i say vacuum leak.....
i say vacuum leak.....
Hey guys. Sorry for the long delay in a response. I have been super busy, but i did get to work on the car. I have actually fixed up the hunting idle problem. It was Idle Air Screw on the bottom of the TB that was out of adjustment. It was actually closed for some reason when I was setting it up before, it worked where it was. That would maybe explain why it would stall and flood itself out after doing a run on boost? Anyway no more stalling and idles great, now just to get the startup better. I am getting the car back on the dyno next friday so if there is anything I need to do up , I should do it now. Car makes great vacuum. Did a leak test and found nothing. Yes Busted7 thats what the gauge was spiking to was 120. Might have been a touch under but thats it. Even still if it was 110 thats still good. That is not knowing exactly what rpm the motor is turning too. I guess we will see what the tune will do for the start up unless I can get another direction to look?
im confused with your bounce vs. peak? with the shrader valve removed and all plugs out (whatever FSM says) my comp tests always show 110-105-110 for example. no peak or whatever your talking about or maybe im wrong?
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html this will explain what i mean
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