Oiling system mods. (lots of pics!!!!)
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7s before paint!!!
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From: Philly/Texas
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCA...Q5fCarQ5fParts
My paypal is allensmith@cebridge.net if you would like to tip me
My paypal is allensmith@cebridge.net if you would like to tip me
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From: san fransisco
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCA...Q5fCarQ5fParts
My paypal is allensmith@cebridge.net if you would like to tip me
My paypal is allensmith@cebridge.net if you would like to tip me
On the oil pump sealing,
Two questions - Barry, on your method, you're lapping the PUMP housing down, not the iron or the gears yes?
Allen, did you do any other clearancing on the pump, or just install the thread and torque her down?
Two questions - Barry, on your method, you're lapping the PUMP housing down, not the iron or the gears yes?
Allen, did you do any other clearancing on the pump, or just install the thread and torque her down?
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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From: usa
Funny I saw this thread. I was looking around my recently popped motor and trying to figure out all the things that I could do to bump up the oil pressure as it would occasionally flicker the low psi warning light on my dash, meaning pressure dropped <15PSI. Some of the things that Allen mentioned I'll be doing, certainly not all of them. On the oil pump sealing though, I was talking to a machinest friend of mine about machining a groove into the sotck oil pump and using a Viton O-ring to seal the sucker up. I figure that with a little holymar on the outside of the o-ring would make for a very leak free (both vacuum and pressure) pump. Any thoughts on possible negatives of that?
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7s before paint!!!
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That would be the best way to do it but not everyone (me included) has access to the equipment needed to machine an o-ring groove.
Just get some unwaxed dental floss, coat it in aviation permatex, lay it out with the ends crossed, and your done. Trust me, this is a very good seal and it's cheap too
Just get some unwaxed dental floss, coat it in aviation permatex, lay it out with the ends crossed, and your done. Trust me, this is a very good seal and it's cheap too
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
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From: Slidell, LA
I usually stone all mating surfaces feeling for high spots (the stone grabs on any burrs or dents). You should particularly stone the front plate in the pump area.
On the pump housings I mike each corner leg as a reference than lap the required material off using 320 sandpaper on a granite surface plate (my kitchen sink cut-out).
The factory oil pump clearance spec is .0012”-.0049”, with a field maximum of .0059”. Use the factory min. of .0012” as my final clearance.
Barry
Was re-reading this thread and thought I'd add to it. Happened to find these remote mounts with built-in adjustable pressure regulators. Think I'll mirror most of Allen's work in my own motor, whenever that happens.
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/...p4-fil-mnt.htm
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/...p4-fil-mnt.htm
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From: North Bay, Ontario
F%&*, I looked for weeks for one of those, ended up having to settle on an external regulator and separate oil filter mount. Oh well...
Thanks again for the writeup
Thanks again for the writeup
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7s before paint!!!
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A little on the pricey side but exactly what is needed. If i had it to do over again i would have done all the mods besides enlarging the port from the pump to the side of the iron. It gets very thin in areas and there is a good chance of scrapping the plate.
Here is another place that sells remote oil filter housings W/ regulators. They also have other intresting nick-nacks. Remote housings usually run around $100.00. I spot one in there ebay auction for 79.00 FYI!
http://www.racelinepumps.com/products.htm
EBAY STORE: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/drag368/...d=p3286.c0.m14
http://www.racelinepumps.com/products.htm
EBAY STORE: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/drag368/...d=p3286.c0.m14
nothing oil related, more along the lines of 27 psi on three piece seals. I will however need a stout oiling system for this beast https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-drag-racing-167/got-fuel-756944/
plus all these mods were very cheap.
plus all these mods were very cheap.
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From: North Bay, Ontario
Really? They're all considered to be around 160 lb injectors (blue top, white top, etc) And it's ok, you can sleep peacefully now. lol
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7s before paint!!!
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I would check the diameter of the inside of the fitting you plan on running. If it isn't any larger than 3/8 i wouldn't sweat it too much.
Thank you Jobro.
Thank you Jobro.
Super bump for a nice write up
My question is ;
1/2 plug are used to plug the oil passage in the rear and front irons (more than one in the front)
I couldn't help but notice the comment about the leak at the turbo oil feed.
But since I'm using it. I don't need to plug it.
I have done everything in this write with the exception of enlarging the passages for the dash fitting.
I'll be closing my engine soon and I would like to have a little bit more knowledge on the subject.
1. My car is mostly a Week-end warrior , with some here and there.
350~450rwhp with light weight rotors & flywheel .
Is this mod an overkill for my setup.
Or should I just plug the lateral gallery.
I'm totally aware that oil pressure will spike up importantly, but will it be bad enough to do damage on a engine that is aiming for 60k lifetime.
I've seen many many people reaching high Power without doing this mod .
In other words , will this help a high horsepower engine (400~600rwhp).
My plan is not the plug the upper oil passage , and if I don't like how the engine reacts to the high oil pressure , I can always plug the front iron and go back to OEM.
I know it counter the idea of independent oil lubrificarion to the front bearing .
But did read somewhere that some people did this without any difference .
Just want to confirm things in 2016
Thank you for any constructive comments.
My question is ;
1/2 plug are used to plug the oil passage in the rear and front irons (more than one in the front)
I couldn't help but notice the comment about the leak at the turbo oil feed.
But since I'm using it. I don't need to plug it.
I have done everything in this write with the exception of enlarging the passages for the dash fitting.
I'll be closing my engine soon and I would like to have a little bit more knowledge on the subject.
1. My car is mostly a Week-end warrior , with some here and there.
350~450rwhp with light weight rotors & flywheel .
Is this mod an overkill for my setup.
Or should I just plug the lateral gallery.
I'm totally aware that oil pressure will spike up importantly, but will it be bad enough to do damage on a engine that is aiming for 60k lifetime.
I've seen many many people reaching high Power without doing this mod .
In other words , will this help a high horsepower engine (400~600rwhp).
My plan is not the plug the upper oil passage , and if I don't like how the engine reacts to the high oil pressure , I can always plug the front iron and go back to OEM.
I know it counter the idea of independent oil lubrificarion to the front bearing .
But did read somewhere that some people did this without any difference .
Just want to confirm things in 2016
Thank you for any constructive comments.
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Joined: Jan 2022
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From: WI
I am performing all the oil system mods that i know of and thought i would share.
My objectives are.
1-No single passage smaller than 1/2" (including fittings).
2-No dual passage smaller than 3/8" (including fittings).
3-As few angled fittings and 90* internal passages as possible.
4-Block the oil galley in that goes trough the dowels (in case the dowel land brakes).
5-Be able to adjust the oil pressure externally (just do).
6-Minimize restriction on the oil pump pickup (turbulence).
7-Increase the oil system capacity (larger filter)
8-Regulate the oil pressure to the turbo without restricting flow.
I can't take credit for all of the mods. Some of them i pick up from reading over the years and some are my idea.
First are the mods to the oil pump passage. I did the standard porting and polishing but did not spend a tremendous amount of time on it.
I then knocked the plug out of the end of the oil pump galley and enlarged the passage. I feel that this is the biggest restriction in the whole oiling system. I reamed it out to 1/2 all the way into the oil pump cavity and then tapped it (18 X 1.5) so i could eliminate the oil passage that goes trough the front cover. I am also going to plug the bypass valve in the front cover.
Plugging the passage to the front cover and bypass valve.
Then i removed the casting flash from the oil drain back passage in the front iron.
Then i removed the galley plug for the front main bearing. I reamed the passage to 3/8 and tapped it (16 X 1.5).
My objectives are.
1-No single passage smaller than 1/2" (including fittings).
2-No dual passage smaller than 3/8" (including fittings).
3-As few angled fittings and 90* internal passages as possible.
4-Block the oil galley in that goes trough the dowels (in case the dowel land brakes).
5-Be able to adjust the oil pressure externally (just do).
6-Minimize restriction on the oil pump pickup (turbulence).
7-Increase the oil system capacity (larger filter)
8-Regulate the oil pressure to the turbo without restricting flow.
I can't take credit for all of the mods. Some of them i pick up from reading over the years and some are my idea.
First are the mods to the oil pump passage. I did the standard porting and polishing but did not spend a tremendous amount of time on it.
I then knocked the plug out of the end of the oil pump galley and enlarged the passage. I feel that this is the biggest restriction in the whole oiling system. I reamed it out to 1/2 all the way into the oil pump cavity and then tapped it (18 X 1.5) so i could eliminate the oil passage that goes trough the front cover. I am also going to plug the bypass valve in the front cover.
Plugging the passage to the front cover and bypass valve.
Then i removed the casting flash from the oil drain back passage in the front iron.
Then i removed the galley plug for the front main bearing. I reamed the passage to 3/8 and tapped it (16 X 1.5).
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