boostedfc3s

iTrader: (2)

This question may have been asked before, but I couldn't find anything about this subject. Finishing up 60-1 upgrade, and have to but a new air filter ( 4" inlet ). So I come to the section where there always seems to be plenty of knowledge. I always ran an oiled filter before, but I noticed a little bit of residue inside my MAF and TID upon disassembly. What's your preference and why ?

Evil Aviator

Unless you totally drenched the filter with oil before installing it, the oil is not from the filter.
http://www.knfilters.com/faq.htm#27

The "oil" is probably there because you don't have a catch can.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/oil-catch-can-setup-my-race-car-792344/

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

If you had your crankcase vent hooked up to your TID this is normal.

boostedfc3s

iTrader: (2)

Thanks to both of you. See I knew I would get the correct answer in here. After reading this and thinking about it more, my vent goes back into my TID. Now that said, I'm going Power FC ( so no MAF or TID anymore ). Does that mean I nead a catch can ? My vent is in the center iron at the bottom of the oil fill neck. Can I plumb it back into the oil fill neck ? Or will ot just blow that hose off because both sides are crankcase pressure ?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

You need a vented catch can...

boostedfc3s

iTrader: (2)

cool thanks Revvin.

TURSTY

Dunno if this is relevant, but I have a fairly large turbo (hks T51R SPL) and when I used a pre oiled filter on it set at 10psi, it wouldnt make any boost (like .5 of a psi) and just sucked the oil off the filter. Changed to a Dry Greddy filter and all is good now.

If your going to use a oiled filter, be carful in your selection.

catch-22

iTrader: (2)

what filter were you using that stopped the turbo from boosting :0.

TURSTY

due to the space restrictions, I had to use what I could get on the turbo and I think it could have been a bike filter. It was a K&N pre oiled but was a little small so that could have been the problem.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I've used the shorty K&N for a long time, never had that issue. I did find it would get dirty VERY fast though due to the small surface area, and if you didn't clean it, it would affect response - but not to the degree you've experienced.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Get a catch can. Ditch the PCV valve and cap off the middle nipple on the front of the UIM. Run one line from the middle iron crankcase vent (FD does not have this) and the other line from the oil filler vent to the can. The can should be vented at the top with a breather filter, unless you want to vent it back to a custom TID in the stock manner.



the charcoal canister is a different deal. It is not computer controlled like the FD charcoal canister vent is. You could leave it in there and vent the outlet to the atmosphere. there are a couple ways of handling that.

boostedfc3s

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=arghx;9096938]Get a catch can. Ditch the PCV valve and cap off the middle nipple on the front of the UIM. Run one line from the middle iron crankcase vent (FD does not have this) and the other line from the oil filler vent to the can.


Thanks arghx. That's exactly what my plan is. I've already ordered a nice Morosso aluminum catch can with breather in the top and dual inlet. Is it safe to remove the charcoal canister, and how should I vent the metal line that goes back to the fuel tank ?