Someone please tell me that I'm worried for no good reason.

I've got a S5 FC with a streetported motor (just rebuilt w/ 3mm seals) and a rebuilt Greddy TD07-25G turbo.

The engine has been broken in and all of my single upgrade parts have been installed (Haltech E6K, FMIC, Fuel Mods......ect).

My problem while I was breaking in the motor was that as the process went on I was burning more and more oil (keep in mind that during the break in process, I was totally stock except for a FCD and other little things). My mechanic wouldn't even consider the possibility of it being the engine that he had just rebuilt for me so we accused the turbo. I had the new one to install anyways so I had everything done and I got the car back last November so its been in the garage for the winter. As the weather has been getting nicer, I've been taking the car out for little drives around the block and stuff and it was still puffing smoke during warm up, but it kind of goes away after. I just assumed (*** out of ME!) that it wasn't running quite right (smoke) because I was just running a base map in the Haltech.

Today for some strange reason I decided to check my oil level after I took the car out for a spin and found that I was almost out!! Damn thing is actually still burning oil!! Trying to give my mechanic the benefit of the doubt, I looked to other trouble areas. No leaks.....so maybe the MOP???? Well....wasn't I surprised as all F@%K when I looked under the hood and saw a block off plate where my MOP is supposed to be!!!! Are you kidding me!!! I've been driving the car this whole time (breakin process and after) without an MOP and I havn't been running premix!?!?! Why didn't he tell me that he took it out??!?!?!

Is it possible that they rerouted the oil feed some other way?? Is this common when switching to a stand alone?????? WTF?!?!?!?!?!?!

Well, I feel a little better........thanks for listening.

-Kenji

 

Damn, I would hate to see what the housings and apex seals look like.

There's really no other way to re-route it. Are the OMP injectors just capped off? The Haltech (I don't know if all versions) and Power FC can control the OMP.

That still doesn't seem to explain why you were burning so much oil. Is it possilbe that the internals were heating up way too much without lube in the housings?

 

All gauges including temp were always reading normal. Never saw the car over heat. I don't understand, I've been booting the car around my area and the car drives fine, other than the fact that the timing might be off just a little and I don't seem to have boost in first gear. But, wether the car is under boost or not it seems to drive just fine, unfortunatly its been kind of windy around here lately so I can't even tell if I'm spitting smoke while I'm driving, cuz like I said, after the car is warmed up, I can't really see anything comming out of the exhaust.

-Kenji

 

i think the scarier part is that its still burning oil with no OMP.... maybe a bad oil control ring or something? that would make a decent amount of smoke though.... hopefully its just a small external leak, but you need to look around. good luck!

 

Ya, I'm definetly not putting up a James Bond smoke screen, but there is enough smoke during the warm up process to cause concern.

I'm going to assume that I am infact running without a MOP. However, if by some chance they DID manage to reroute it and the oil was still getting in the engine, would it case a major problem if I was using premix at the same time?

I want to drive the car around a little more tomorrow and see if the oil level goes down at all, but I don't want to risk the engine. I have a tunning session with Steve Kahn on June 4th.

-Kenji

 

Should be no problem if you premix and you find that your OMP is re-routed somehow. If it was a bad oil control ring you probably would see more smoke for longer time especially if you are loosing that much oil.

 

Well, all things aside.....what else could it be?

recap:

- smoke on start up but seems to disappear after warm up

- loss of oil, but no visible leaks or pools under my car

- MOP seems to have been removed

- Rebuilt motor w/ 3mm apex seals and brand new rotor housings

- Rebuilt Greddy TD07-25G turbo w/ V-Band flange (no visible oil leaks anywhere on turbo).

Any Ideas???

-Kenji

 

Good news is since it's buring oil, you have some lubrication. The bad news is, since you have that kind of oil comsuption and no leaks, the engine is going to need to be broken back down again. Opening and closing the engine really isn't hard. Go and buy the RA rebuild video and you will see what I mean.

 

S5 MOPs are electronic, not mechanical like th S4s. Unless I am mistaken, the Haltech cannot run the electronic MOP, so it would need to have been blocked off ( or just left unused). You can switch to a mechanical S4 MOP system, just need to use the TB and linkage (possibly front cover, I cant remember offhand). Did your engine builder or whoever installed the Haltech go over this with you?

 

Holy **** Kenji, I cant beleive he didn't tell you about the OMP!! Another reason I do my own work.

Thats really weird, I built a motor for a buddy of mine last year and he drove it 7hrs to Sault St Marie, he said he went through nearly 4 litres of oil on the trip! I thought that the motor would have to be pulled for sure, but then it just cleared up and was totally fine.

I'd be telling Dave to rebuild the motor for free.....

 

yea i had the SAME thing happen to me with my FD. i bought the car used from someone and it had haltec installed. me being a newb and not realizing that there was no OMP, i drove it for a few weeks without adding any premix. WOULDA BEEN NICE IF HE TOLD ME. i wasnt haveing the oil burning problem that your having tho, i'm just crossing my fingers that my motor is still ok when i go to bring it out in the next few weeks from storage. goodluck man

 

If your gonna run pre-mix get Idemitsu racing oil for rotary thats what i use and it runs really nice and the car doesn't stck soo bad aswell. Plus it's encouraging thats it's made just for high performance rotary cars.


http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/

 

Could be a crank case venting problem as well, and don't count out the turbo seal leaking oil.

 

Was that your red car at dave's? with the greddy fmic?

Hope you find out what is going on. It almost sounds as if your oil seals are passing.

Ian

 

Ian, if it had gunnetal 57c on it then it was mine.

Jim, I pulled the inter coller piping off of the turbo as well as the down pipe and there was no indication of any oil. How can I check the crank case issue?

GOTBANNED?, is there a place that you get that stuff locally or do u just order consistantly from the site?

Joe, trust me, if it comes to that I would expect nothing less. I've been going to Dave for awhile now and he treats me really well, thats why I can't believe that they wouldn't tell me about something like this. I have to admit that there was a lot going on at the time and there were doing a lot to my car so it wouldn't surprise me if Wayne forgot to mention it, but this could potentialy be a huge problem.

Also, what is normal oil pressure supposed to be at? Keep in mind that I'm still using the stock gauge because I havn't installed my other one yet but I thin it was sitting around the middle or just above during warm up and then dropped down a bit after the car was warmed up.

-Kenji

 

Jim, I pulled the inter coller piping off of the turbo as well as the down pipe and there was no indication of any oil. How can I check the crank case issue?

I sent you a PM

 

idemitsu is a waste of money.

 

What kingd of oil control O rings did you use , I had a similar experience and thought it was the turbo , I took it off and sent it back to Australia , had it rebuilt and rebalanced by the manufacturer . when it came back ..........same F@#kin thing !! . It turned out to be the shitty substitute o rings that I used , when my mechanic opened up the motor he couldn't find half of them and the rest were really torn up !!

 

How many miles on the motor, since rebuilt? I know of a few engine builders don't start premixing right away to help to motor break in faster.

 

It is most likely a crank case vent issue.
pull off the oil cap befor next start up and see what happens

 

I'm with the guy above. On my old GTUs, I had the emissions removed and capped a nipple that was supposed to be vented(the one on the oil fill neck) and my **** would smoke like james bond. Uncapped it and it disappeared.

 

Well, now there is something new to add to the situation. I'm replacing the motor in my sisters civic so I need the space in the garage so I'm moving my car to my aunt's garage (about 30 min drive), but my headlight switch doesn't work (another thing that they were supposed to replace). So with just enough daylight left I headed out and my sister and her boyfriend followed in my mom's car.

Well about 15 min later I look down at my gauges and the temp gauge is right at the top!!!! So, I pulled over right away and blasted the heat to drop the temp gauge down a bit. Once it had cooled down a little I immediatly went to the closest gas station to see what was wrong and expecting to fine my overflow tank spitting coolant all over the place. Instead, what do I find....my e-fan isn't turnign on (another part that was installed by the same guys). So with a shitty little novilty pocket knife and a mini light, I cut the fan power wire from where ever it was going and connected it directly to my battery (if you can believe it this whole thing killed 20 min). With the fan finally working and the engine cooling back to normal I was on my way once again.

Just another day I guess. I'll be bringing the car back down this week so before I leave I'll be checking the venting issue. Thanks for the help guys and keep adding if you think of anything else.

-Kenji