DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

have a s4 with s5 t2 block running s4 electronics. Fmic fcd 3 inch exhaust greddy profec 2 boost controller and stock s5 turbocharger for now.
Planning on running a bnr stage 2 or 3 turbo with rtek 1.8 720s all around and onky looking to boost about 13 psi. Is a safc required just to drive the car on the streets and boost safely about 9 lbs?

my main question is if I run a turbocharger that spools up quicker do I have to change the fuel map? Or does the rtek provide fuel based on pressure vs rpm?.

Anybody running rtek 2.0 that used to run 1.8 and recommend the upgrade?

I appologize for all of the questions but all help is greatly appreciated

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Check the RTEK forums...
https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/

I ran a RTEK 1.5 with the stock turbo creeping up to ~13psi (generally would just go part throttle to keep creep down) with a slightly retarded CAS, Not safe, but it didn't blow. This was S4 8.5:1 rotors though.

I can't tell you that 9psi would be safe on a hybrid...

chatchie

iTrader: (22)

I think 1.8 raises the map by 5% and retards 1 degree of timing per pound of boost rise.

My AFRS with the stock S4 turbo were high 12 @ 13psi.

You should stop whatever your doing and buy a wideband if you dont already have one.

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

Already got a aem uego onboard. Was just trying to see what I would need to run that setup

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

ditch the rtec, and ditch nearly all the ending electronics, and get a stand alone ems.

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

X2! My power fc base map ran smoother than the piggybacks I had tried! Stand alones are worth the money!

ColinShark

Rtek isn't a piggyback. But anyway....

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

so what is it then?

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

haha..

It's a way of life!



I'm with SirCygnus... Ditch the Rtek and go with a standalone. You can get a Haltech Sprint RE for cheap brand new with brand new wiring harness. You'll be improving your setup by 100%

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

A piggyback would be an SAFC or anything that intercepts sensor output signals to the ECU. Rtek'd ECUs are flashed versions of the stock computer. The 1.x versions can't be reprogrammed, while the 2.x versions can be flashed in real-time as much as you want. Not at all the same thing.

Everyone's going to have their own opinion, but there's no NEED for a standalone with a stock or hybrid turbo. The injector settings and AFM are good to ~400 whp. If you want to spend the extra $$, go for it. But a 2.x will get you most of the functionality of a standalone, while easily retaining emissions equipment for the CA smog-*****.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

ok so a piggy back is like a human riding a horse and controles where it it will go, but can be reverted to stock with the removal of the rider. rtec is like a brain slug. it latches on, and slowly the host dies with the coming days and the slug stays intact.

2Fierce

iTrader: (7)

LMAO, searching and reviving, what did OP do?

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

go rtek 2.0 or standalone. rtek 1.x is asking for blown engine

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

i had the opportunity to purchase a haltech e6x but the buyer ended up selling it. as of right now I'm still saving up cash. I'm a big fan of the haltech ems' as i've had the e6x before and was working on tuning another one of my turbo rx7's but the engine blew and i went to a stock setup... a pretty stupid decision but back then i was naive.