I own an 87 TII, and I am putting in a streetported engine. I want to upgrade my turbo at the same time, but quite frankly, I don't understand all these different figures...
Can someone explain things like 62-1, P-trim, etc? I pretty much get the A/R ratios, but these other things baffle me.
If you guys can make some recommendations for me, I'd appreciate it... I am looking for something that will give me a good amount of power without any SERIOUS lag. I don't care if the boost is on instantaneously, or if it can put out a million hp, I just want something middle of the road, but better than stock. I was considering a T-76, a T-78, or one of BNR's stage 3 or 4 turbos... I will be buying my engine from BNR, and I saw he has all sorts of choices as far as "trim" goes.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Most of the info you want can be searched for.

But I'll explain a few things. 60-1, 62-1 are compressor wheels, as in T04B 60-1. That's a T04 housing with a 60-1 compressor.

T-76 and T-78 are pretty damm big turbos. I doubt very much that you could spool that thing for street driving with just a 13B, unless it was majorly ported.

Well either a T04B 60-1 or a hybrid would do the job for that.

 

So what does the 60-1 thing actually mean? What is the significance of the numbers? Is it different than the A/R ratio? What's the difference between a T04B and T04E? Is there a big difference between 60-1 and 62-1?


Thanks for the help evilrotor.

 

I'm not exactly sure what the number 60-1 means, but its basically the compressor trim.

A/R means Area Ratio. Its the relationship between compressor housing inlet and the radius of the compressor wheel. It tells you how much air the turbo will push and what it will take to spool it.

The T04E is a slightly bigger housing, but I think the T04B has a bigger compressor inlet. The E flows more overall.

There is not much difference between the 60-1 and the 62-1. The 62-1 is slightly more efficient at higher boost.

 

60-1 and 62-1 are beautiful compressor trims for a mild to large street port, running less than 21-22 on a 60-1 and less than 25 psi on a 62-1 trim. Both to be used in a T04E. Pick either trim and you can do a fairly good job shaping your powerband around your porting. In other words if you have a mild engine and want very fast boost response, you can go with a .84-.96 divided exhaust housing, p-trim wheel, with a .6 a/r compressor. If you want good response and good topend I would do a .96/p-trim exhaust and a .7 compressor. If you want great topend and good midrange go with .7 comp, 1.15 p-trim.

Even for a rather "wild" street port you can do a 1.15 q-trim, or 1.32 p-trim exhaust and have crazy top-end. The compressor will start loosing it's efficiency with this type of port anything above the boost levels mentioned above, when approaching peak power levels.

This turbo combination has the ability to make around 500rwhp within it's efficiency range.

 

So what exactly is "p-trim"? Is it the shape of the blades, or ???

So if I got a medium sized street port, a 62-1 compressor and ran around 17 or 18 pounds, what kind of power do you think I could put down? I am hoping to get at least 350 hp.

 

Yeah, 18 psi on a 62-1 should get you between 350-450 bhp...although its max efficiency is only to aboot 15psi...

 

Will I need to run a Haltech or Power FC for this, or can I get away with an S-AFC?

 

S-AFC isn't going to account for retarding timing since the factory ECU isn't going to see the higher levels of boost.

Sure, somehow you could probably manage, but a EMS is the way to go.

 

I've seen a lot of guys that go with a larger turbo that get rid of the stock airbox and mount a cone air filter directly to the turbo. If I go with that kind of set up, what do I do with the air sensor? I am planning on taking Josepi's advice and going with a Haltech, so would that eliminate the need for the sensor?

 

I run the filter directly on the compressor housing.

Now, I'm not a Haltech guy, I run the Wolf, but I don't have the air sensor. The Wolf reads manifold pressure/air temp with sensors mounted in the TB after the IC...

...I'm sure the Haltech does the same or similar

 

What the hell is "the Wolf"? Never heard of it. How much is it? Any benefits of that instead of the Haltech or Power FC?

 

Actually depending on your trim and housing selection, along with your porting, you can see as much as 450-500bhp @ 18psi. This based on a lightly chilled IC (85% eff), and peak power made at 7100 rpm. For your medium port, I would do a VERY large intake port, with a "cleaned up" exhaust port. Slightly squared off but not extended up. I would use a .96 or 1.15 divided housing with p-trim, and a .7 comp on this port.

I would also use a standalone of some sort, be it Haltech, Microtech, etc. You can run this setup on the stock ECU, but you will see restriction from the AFM, and will not have the benefit of completely stable AF ratio and precision timing.

 

Wolf3d. I have the 3.1. There is a version 4 out now.
Like any standalone, it has its ups and downs.

Wolf EMS Website

 

evilrotor, how much do those go for?

relvinnian, I talked to Bryan at BNR today, and he recommended a T04E housing with "a .96 p-trim clipped at 7 or 8 degrees." He said boost will really come on at 4000 rpm. He said he will do my rebuild, street port, the turbo and manifold, and the oil lines to and from the turbo, and some other stuff (I think the injectors too) for right around $4k. What do you all think? I told him I wanted to get a lightened flywheel, and he said that he would put on a 3rd gen flywheel.

As far as the intercooler goes, I am planning on going with a set up like this:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=145822

Thanks for all the help guys, I feel a lot more informed about this.

 

Unless the new E11 has a plug & tune function that I don't know about, you would throw the air sensor in the trash along with your AFM.

The Power FC is a more simplistic plug-in EMS for the 3Gen RX-7, while the Wolf and Haltech products can run any engine. The Wolf3D 4.0 is similar to the Haltech E11, and is also about the same price. The advantages of the Wolf are its hand controller and unlimited maps via the memory cartridge. The E11 has more load bands, dedicated electric OMP control (for 89+ rotaries), datalogging, and comes standard with 8-channel capability (for engines with more than 2 rotors or 4 cylinders). The Wolf3D 4.0 Plus just hit the market, but I'm not sure what it has besides 8-channel capability. Checkpoint Engineering is the US Wolf distributor.
http://www.checkpointmotors.net/

Exactly. It all depends on what you like.

 

What do you guys think about the deal BNR is giving me? Is the price ok for all that stuff?

 

^bump... Still need to know if the price is cool... Anybody? Bueller? Bueller?

 

Also, is the FD flywheel a good enough "lightened" flywheel?