NEED HELP!!: Single Turbo Manifold Wont Fit
03-04-06, 08:38 PM
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NEED HELP!!: Single Turbo Manifold Wont Fit
Having issues with this single turbo install...but this is the one in the most need of immediate attention...
I am installing a T04R kit from A-Spec, I am having clearance issues...I do not have enough room from the sidewall of the car to the engine block to get the new manifold on. It seems as if the existing studs are too long or maybe I unscrewed the studs alittle while removing the bolts. The pipe that the wastegate connects to hits the sidewall so I can't get the holes over the studs...anyone ever run into this problem and know how to fix it??
Suggestions please, I really need it, I have put over 40 hours the past 4 days into this car...FMIC, radiator, brakes blah blah blah, and this is the final stretch!
I am installing a T04R kit from A-Spec, I am having clearance issues...I do not have enough room from the sidewall of the car to the engine block to get the new manifold on. It seems as if the existing studs are too long or maybe I unscrewed the studs alittle while removing the bolts. The pipe that the wastegate connects to hits the sidewall so I can't get the holes over the studs...anyone ever run into this problem and know how to fix it??
Suggestions please, I really need it, I have put over 40 hours the past 4 days into this car...FMIC, radiator, brakes blah blah blah, and this is the final stretch!
Last edited by mpfcc; 03-04-06 at 08:48 PM.
03-04-06, 09:08 PM
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i had the same problems. what i did was unbolted the motor from the motor mounts and jacked up the motor alittle bit. that gave me the room to slip the manifold over the bolts.
brandon
brandon
03-04-06, 11:06 PM
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Yeah I'll get right on that...
As for taking out the studs, that was the first thing I was going to try in the morning, but I guess last resort would be pulling the motor up a few inches, we'll see...thanks for all the suggestions and anything else that follows!!
Originally Posted by Trav
I think you're screwed. Just give it to me and be done with it...
As for taking out the studs, that was the first thing I was going to try in the morning, but I guess last resort would be pulling the motor up a few inches, we'll see...thanks for all the suggestions and anything else that follows!!
03-05-06, 01:18 AM
#6
Originally Posted by mpfcc
Yeah I'll get right on that...
As for taking out the studs, that was the first thing I was going to try in the morning, but I guess last resort would be pulling the motor up a few inches, we'll see...thanks for all the suggestions and anything else that follows!!
As for taking out the studs, that was the first thing I was going to try in the morning, but I guess last resort would be pulling the motor up a few inches, we'll see...thanks for all the suggestions and anything else that follows!!
They can be pretty difficult to remove due to heat cycling and the factory lock nuts seizing on the studs leading to breaking during removal. The most difficult part is if the stud breaks inside the housing removing the stud with the limited space is a bitch. Just be careful.
Last edited by crispeed; 03-05-06 at 01:22 AM.
03-05-06, 01:30 AM
#7
ahh that happened to me 
. It was a huge bitch. needed an angle drill and a really good bit. Be careful and replace the studs if need be.
. It was a huge bitch. needed an angle drill and a really good bit. Be careful and replace the studs if need be.
Originally Posted by crispeed
A lot of the aftermarket manifolds for the FD ecounter that problem. It's mainly due to the extra long studs the FD got.
They can be pretty difficult to remove due to heat cycling and the factory lock nuts seizing on the studs leading to breaking during removal. The most difficult part is if the stud breaks inside the housing removing the stud with the limited space is a bitch. Just be careful.
They can be pretty difficult to remove due to heat cycling and the factory lock nuts seizing on the studs leading to breaking during removal. The most difficult part is if the stud breaks inside the housing removing the stud with the limited space is a bitch. Just be careful.
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03-05-06, 01:32 AM
#8
Get two towels and the stock jack, and jack the engine to the side. The towels are to protect the paint/motor. I usually do it between the inner fender / shock tower ("ground" side of the jack here) and the air pump attachment (water pump hounsing?). Don't go too crazy -- it doesn't take much to push the engine over, and going too far might damage something. Works great.
-Max
Masser Teknishun, Cletus Auto Garage
-Max
Masser Teknishun, Cletus Auto Garage
03-05-06, 07:47 PM
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Well I unbolted the motor from the motor mounts and pulled it up a few inches, then took the stock jack and put it against the side wall and air pump bracket and pushed the motor over to the side, I had to force it but I was able to get the manifold on without removing the studs, but it's an uneasy fit!! lol Oh well, now my problem is a main fuse that keeps blowing, anyone have suggestions where to check to see why it's blowing???
Originally Posted by Zero R
Sorry, just found this studs need to be removed out of the block, it is due to both the wastegate position and long stock studs.
-S-
-S-
03-06-06, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by maxcooper
Get two towels and the stock jack, and jack the engine to the side. The towels are to protect the paint/motor. I usually do it between the inner fender / shock tower ("ground" side of the jack here) and the air pump attachment (water pump hounsing?). Don't go too crazy -- it doesn't take much to push the engine over, and going too far might damage something. Works great.
-Max
Masser Teknishun, Cletus Auto Garage
-Max
Masser Teknishun, Cletus Auto Garage
03-07-06, 10:50 AM
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i'm in favor of lifting the engine. i don't like pulling the exhaust studs out of the rotor housings unless there aren't any other alternatives. the aluminum gets fubar'd a lot of the time, then you're stuck trying to retap the thing with the engine already mounted...SUCK
if you want shorter studs, you can zip a nut onto each one, and cut the ends off with a cutoff wheel on a dremel. then just take the nuts off to clean the end threads to prevent cross-threading when you reinstall them. that's the way i went with mine because i like everything to be in-car servicable.
if you want shorter studs, you can zip a nut onto each one, and cut the ends off with a cutoff wheel on a dremel. then just take the nuts off to clean the end threads to prevent cross-threading when you reinstall them. that's the way i went with mine because i like everything to be in-car servicable.
03-08-06, 12:14 PM
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I agree with the guys that say not to remove the studs unless you have no other choice. They will break, believe me! If removing them is you last hope, see if there is a way for you to heat them up without setting your car on fire. A stud removel socket is a nice tool to have. Raise the engine brother!!!
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