Need advice on Seals...
#1
MIA
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Need advice on Seals...
ok, I know I dont post in this section often and if all goes well next year I will be here more often then anything . First things first... I need some suggestions or advice on which type of seals I should put on my motor this time around. I am split between the 3mm OEM ones, 2mm ceramic eneti seals, and the 3mm hurly seals, which I believe are ceramic as well, not sure, however. I was advised by a formal Idol, but now peer, I guess ( Adam Saruwatari, did I spell that right?) to go with the hurly 3mm seals, but Tripoint who will be doing the work my motor advised me to stick 2mm ceramic eniti seals, if I am going to be using high boost. Then there is TTT car, who is running 3mm OEM seals, and his cars reliability just astounds me everytime we use to go out, cause we all know he cant drive for **** (TTT if you are reading this, gimmie a call back before posting, we need to talk.) . So I have until tomarrow to make up my mind which route I want to go. Just to let you know, I would take reliability over all else, however, I will see where that will go, since I will be running Nitrous and a single turbo soon. So, I would like some suggestions and comments, if any of you are running any of the seals I mentioned.
Thanks,
Marvin
P.S. Ok I edited his name, I was just to lazy to go look at my big *** poster he signed for me across my room
Thanks,
Marvin
P.S. Ok I edited his name, I was just to lazy to go look at my big *** poster he signed for me across my room
Last edited by Crashunit; 12-19-02 at 07:56 PM.
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i'm running 2mm stock OEM mazda seals. an engine is only as strong as it's builder and tuning. i have beat the living crap out of my engine and not one hiccup. that includes 25drag runs already on a engine with a few hundred miles on it and 150 psi compression on both rotors food for thought
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Originally posted by vosko
i'm running 2mm stock OEM mazda seals. an engine is only as strong as it's builder and tuning. i have beat the living crap out of my engine and not one hiccup. that includes 25drag runs already on a engine with a few hundred miles on it and 150 psi compression on both rotors food for thought
i'm running 2mm stock OEM mazda seals. an engine is only as strong as it's builder and tuning. i have beat the living crap out of my engine and not one hiccup. that includes 25drag runs already on a engine with a few hundred miles on it and 150 psi compression on both rotors food for thought
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Originally posted by fdracer
lol, vosko you're braggin about compression after a few hundred miles. you're engine's brand new!
lol, vosko you're braggin about compression after a few hundred miles. you're engine's brand new!
i'm allowed to brag. i love my engine!!!!!!!!!
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#12
I would suggest the 2mm ceramics, but since reliability is above all other factors for importance, then you might as well get the 3mm OEM seals. The 2mm ones will give you a little more HP with the same engine set up, and will do a better job of sealing also, but if you use them, you have to DAMN WELL MAKE SURE YOU TUNE IT EXCELLENT! because 1 little blip and it's toast. That's the good thing about the oem 3mm is that they can handle a couple tuning mistakes or pings here and there so youre engine isn't toast before you can tune it better. So yeah, since reliability is your #1 concern, 3mm. Otherwise, i would suggest 2mm ceramics.
#13
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
You will loose compression with a big port especially if it has a lot of overlap, I'm running 2mm atikins seals in my engine. $240 for the whole set and I'm running 19 psi with a to4R with 89 oct. gas from the military base.. Japanese gas is too expensive..
#14
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Originally posted by vosko
i'm running 2mm stock OEM mazda seals. an engine is only as strong as it's builder and tuning. i have beat the living crap out of my engine and not one hiccup. that includes 25drag runs already on a engine with a few hundred miles on it and 150 psi compression on both rotors food for thought
i'm running 2mm stock OEM mazda seals. an engine is only as strong as it's builder and tuning. i have beat the living crap out of my engine and not one hiccup. that includes 25drag runs already on a engine with a few hundred miles on it and 150 psi compression on both rotors food for thought
You have small ports
the larger your intake ports the less 'static' compression you'll have on a guage
i have tested a 12A turbo which had done approx 90000miles and it was getting 150-160 on all phases of both rotors, why? because they run small port duration.
#16
Originally posted by Bridgeported
I would suggest the 2mm ceramics, but since reliability is above all other factors for importance, then you might as well get the 3mm OEM seals. The 2mm ones will give you a little more HP with the same engine set up, and will do a better job of sealing also, but if you use them, you have to DAMN WELL MAKE SURE YOU TUNE IT EXCELLENT! because 1 little blip and it's toast. That's the good thing about the oem 3mm is that they can handle a couple tuning mistakes or pings here and there so youre engine isn't toast before you can tune it better. So yeah, since reliability is your #1 concern, 3mm. Otherwise, i would suggest 2mm ceramics.
I would suggest the 2mm ceramics, but since reliability is above all other factors for importance, then you might as well get the 3mm OEM seals. The 2mm ones will give you a little more HP with the same engine set up, and will do a better job of sealing also, but if you use them, you have to DAMN WELL MAKE SURE YOU TUNE IT EXCELLENT! because 1 little blip and it's toast. That's the good thing about the oem 3mm is that they can handle a couple tuning mistakes or pings here and there so youre engine isn't toast before you can tune it better. So yeah, since reliability is your #1 concern, 3mm. Otherwise, i would suggest 2mm ceramics.
Crashunit, Hurleys are NOT ceramic! They are THE SOFTEST apex seal you can buy! There are some very lengthy discussions about this in the rotary section...
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Originally posted by HWO
You have small ports
the larger your intake ports the less 'static' compression you'll have on a guage
i have tested a 12A turbo which had done approx 90000miles and it was getting 150-160 on all phases of both rotors, why? because they run small port duration.
You have small ports
the larger your intake ports the less 'static' compression you'll have on a guage
i have tested a 12A turbo which had done approx 90000miles and it was getting 150-160 on all phases of both rotors, why? because they run small port duration.
HWO i do ? wow i love when people tell me about stuff on my own car ? did you port my engine ? were you ther when it was assembled ? yet another aussie who is WRONG! my ports are not small........ they are pretty LARGE. you can think whatever you want but you are still wrong
#21
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Originally posted by Resource
Vosko has small ports...............hahahahaha
Sucks to be you!
Vosko has small ports...............hahahahaha
Sucks to be you!
#22
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Originally posted by GotBoostd7
You've seen his ports????
You guys need to keep that **** behind closed doors man....I don't want to know about it...
You've seen his ports????
You guys need to keep that **** behind closed doors man....I don't want to know about it...
#23
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Originally posted by vosko
eric we all can't be as cool as you and throw our cars into a tree a few hours after we get it back from the shop. i'm sorry
eric we all can't be as cool as you and throw our cars into a tree a few hours after we get it back from the shop. i'm sorry
#24
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Originally posted by Resource
Sorry we all can't be as fat as you.
Sorry we all can't be as fat as you.
Vosko is FAT!!!??? LOL, no wonder he runs such slow times @ the track...dude, go on a diet...muhahahah...
or hire Jonski to drive your car...he looks like he weights about 88 lbs...lol
k
#25
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Originally posted by Resource
Sorry we all can't be as fat as you.
Sorry we all can't be as fat as you.