RotorMotor2

Just showin off, I just tig welded it all together and it is now in the shop getting cerramic coated. What do you all think?

RotorMotor2

"Is your oil drain connected to your manifold? Why?"
well cause it had a tab with a hole already on it and all i had to do was twist it so i thought why the heck not? it holds things together like a tiny bit better anyways.....

"What turbo are you running and how much did it cost for all the parts etc...??"
well i am running a 60-1 turbonetics center section with ball bering compressor and a bushing on the turbine and a air reasearch .98 A/R exhaust housing that is on center and non divided and the largest trim on my turbine (i forget) and a .7 A/R on the compressor housing. it cost me $1750 for the origional turbo setup from rotary resurection on this form and diddnt like a lot of it so i dicided to redo all of it so all i kept was the hot and cold housings on the turbo. the 4 bolt 304 stainless flange for the turbo outlet was $18 from e-bay, the 13B exhaust manifold flange and the 2 bolt exhaust flange to the midpipe i got from mazdatrix.com (you can check their prices, i forgot) and jcwhitney.com has the 304 stainless mandrel bent pipe tube for like $30-40 i think per bend and the 46mm hks (style) wastegate came with the extra flanges needed for the manifold and dump tube and it was $150-$180 on e-bay (stone mountain racing or ssautochrome [same company]) and the t4 flange for the turbo inlet came from turbonetics along with my heat shields (forgot costs) and the mandrel bends for my downpipe from an exhaust shop that had similar bend angles and was 3" on an exhaust system for some chevy truck and it was $70 and $30 more for him to cut it up and tack weld so i can test fit it and keep bringing it back to re cut and re tack then i tig welded it after it was perfect and about 8-10 hours labor fabricating, the new center section for my turbo was $1050 from turbonetics shipped.

RotorMotor2

here:

RotorMotor2

this is a pic of my setup before all of any of the work i did to it:

RotorMotor2

here is the link to the thread where i bought my origional setup, but i dont think any of the pics work anymore, and it wasnt the full price i paid for it, i gave him my blown 13BREW engine and a good FC turbo engine and turbo and long block parts like manifolds and stuff plus $900:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...0+turbo+center

RotorMotor2

chinaman
"I also have a 13B RE upper and lower manifold that I plan on using on my FD. Was there anything you had to change (vacuum lines, ect) or, did everything bolt up? "

first off i have the whole RE engine in my car not just the manifolds, second you will have a HE!! of a time doing this swap if you still have the factory twins and also in seq mode, it is too much to get into full detail but plan on spending plenty of time reasearching what vacume line nipples in the manifold go to where and do what and you will have to have some vacume lines go around the whole manifold to get from your rats nest to your turbo auctuators and the throttle body is different as far as the port sizes are smaller and the bolts for the elbow might be different and the throttle & cruise cables wont fit right cause 1 the runners are shorter than the FD's and 2# the connections are facing the wrong way and also because the manifold is shorter then it likes to sit right in the way of the rats nest so you have to move silinoids around and also dont forget the oil fill neck will have to change (maybey not on fd block but on RE block) cause it gets in the way of the throttle body elbow and if you use the FD throttle body (which i did cause it has larger ports) then you will have to seal holes at the bottom of it to keep from having a boost leak and also check the vacume line nipples on that as well, i dont think the heat shields will fit on the turbos when using these manifolds either, dont forget you will have to make your own gaskets for these manifolds if they are in unsatisfactory condition, getting the fuel injectors to fit correctly with my 1600cc injectors was another task in itself and if you dont have an aftermarket ecu then you have to get some top feed 850cc injectors to fit (good luck) and you also have to use i think a turbo 2's primary injector rail to mate with the secondary rail correctly and then do some bending to mate with the fuel lines correctly. do you just want me to do this for you? ha ha! i highly reccomend going single when you do this. i did this swap to a RE block with seq twins first (oh yeah and the front cover is a FD that i had to fab on as well as the motor mounts) and then went single casue of the problems with the vacume lines (dont get me wrong, i had it working properly but just tired of worrying about problem after problem) and then there is some wiring you will have to do also to get your plugs in the right place like your TPS and some silinoids. LIST GOES ON......

BuckyFD3
"Is there any advantage over the FD manifold???"
Yes, the ports are mutch larget than the FD's and the runners are shorter which makes more low end torque (and from my experience rotarys like shorter runners better)


And maxcooper, hi !, your pics are not working on your site when i clicked to view your convertable FD. and i think you are right about the heat but i also think it is not enough to matter, in either case i can just sawsall the tab off very easily.

RotorMotor2

i was going to but it is hard to find flex tube in 1.5" diameter short enough to fit while still being able to use the bolts on the wastegate, so i did it this way and if it cracks then i will do something different, but you are right and i did try., also are you affilieated with a-spec tuning? if so, i was the one who just ordered the tranny brace and the diff brace in Antioch,CA! good quality and welds!

RotorMotor2

"nice to see someone else using the 13B RE manifolds. I'm using a 20B TB with my manifolds."

Again, i am using the FULL 13BRE engine and not just the manifolds and i fabbed the FD front cover on and the FD motor mounts.
So i am not too framiliar with the 20BRE TB, is that bigger porting than the FD's?
Also where did you get that secondary fuel rail for the RE manifold?

VERY NICE & SHINY setup you have there, major respect!

RotorMotor2

"If I decided to stick with the Cosmo intakes, how much money do you think I will have to spend to make it work on my FD??"

well lets see, to start, since you are going to be using a T78 turbo then this makes things much easier, you can scrap your whole rats nest and keep like a few silinoids, plan on buying some silicone vacume lines ($60?), and for that size of a turbo it would be pointless to run low boost levels and at like 18psi you will have over 650hp so you will need to buy some fuel injectors to feed the hp, like 850cc primarys (free from FD) and 1600cc secondarys (around $200 to $300) and maybey more injectors for more boost, a turbo 2 primary fuel rail ($15? from junk yard) you will need o-rings and spacers for your injectors (cheep[make sure they are fuel safe] ) you will need something to seal the hole in the TB if you use the FD TB like me (RTV or JB Weld $10?) you will need to make or buy block of plate(s) ($15?), and like R-Magic said he ported his intake ports, if you dont do this then it is almost pointless using these manifolds unless you are looking just for short runners. ($yourself - $expensive) and you can either re-route your throttle cable or get a custom one made ($0 - $50?) and you cannot use your cruise control cable unless you get a custom cable made ($0-$40?) if you use the 20B TB then i dont know about the TPS sensor plug fitting & working with your harness but also something to think about, and also the gaskets you will need to make or have made for the manifolds ($15 or so) and then the oil fill neck issue, what i did was cut it in half and then re-welded it at the right degree rotation. ($?) ohh and you will need to lengthen your fuel temp sensor wires, (?) man its just really hard to put a price on things when i dont know your skill levels and what tools and supplys you have but i hope this is a good start.