mazgtr

Well after checking everything on my car. It seems the BW turbo with a 1.32 housing and T6 frame is "too big" Can't spool it for NOTHING!. My intercooler core is BIG, My IC piping is BIG...
I already have a custom T6 tubular manifold made, so i need to stick to a T6 frame
My options are a 74mm GT42 non BB with a 1.01 turbine Don't know if it is any benefit to go to a 76mm GT42 to reach mid 600 rwhp @ 30-33 PSI.

or a BorgWarner S400SX with a 1.10 which comes with a smaller turbine wheel then the standard version, which is pretty much the same as the Garrett GT turbine size.
I can get it with a 10" race cover..
other option is to get a T4 to T6 flange adapter for my manifold so I can run a
T4 turbine. Something Like a PT-74 GTS T4 .
built a Huge Ported motor with seconday bridge port and a MASSIVE 5" exhaust
thinking I could spool the mother f'er
I know ErnieT has GT42R but the "R" is too much for me to spend and the rebuild cost would be to high

need to build the best combo to reach 640-50 @ 33PSI with out going ball bearing

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

I have a 4294R and manifold going for rather cheap right now. T6 1.01 ceramic coated and polished. You can have turbo only for $1450 shipped. Brand new never run.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

try a smaller turbine housing?

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Wont work without a lot of machining. That is why most guys just buy the 1.32, the bigger turbine wheels only come with the 1.32, to get the smaller A/r you need to machine it. So now your buying a housing and paying for the machining, also depending re-contouring the wheel as well.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

And now i know, thanks.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

No problem sir, just doin my job

mazgtr

It is just soooooo crazy that I can't even get 1 PSI out of this turbo WOW
I got every single mod you can think of. The only thing that keeps my setup from not being a full blown race car motor is lack of Meth and mechanical fuel/oil pump

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Uhh... Have you checked for boost leaks? with an actual pressure tester?

What EBC are you using? What are your gain settings (or duty cycle map if it's an AVC-R) How do you have it plumbed?

mazgtr

No pressure tester.. I sprayed carb cleaner and water around the piping and intake manifold for any vacuume leaks...I have had intercooler hoses come off and still got a few PSI out of 20+ that I was normally getting....It is not pig rich since the secondarys 160LBS never comes on since it never trips my EMS settings
which I have the staging set at 1 PSI.
I had a NPR skinny tube and fine FMIC in front of the radiator and short Intercooler piping 3" .

Now since then I got the 850HP precision FMIC 3" turbo 3.5" TB side
with the FMIC mounted all the way to bumper. and I brideported the secondary plates

zbrown

there has to be a problem.......

that turbo should spool well, i would think better than a 42, considering the nice ratio of comp/turbine

whats his name ...... 13bRex or whatever with the rx3 said the BWs475 spooled better than the gt4202 he had before, and the non BB 42 is not terrible by any means on my car

I would actually like to switch to a s475

if your not making any boost something is fishy

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

I find it impossible that you're not making any boost. There's got to be something wrong in your setup.

ZAN_TUNING

iTrader: (1)

it seems something is up... i just switched to a TV8101 which is a T6 frame 85mm and 101mm turbine wheel exducer... i have no worries this sucker will spool

ALSO: you have seen proof yourself a turbo that big can be spooled on a 13B. The Rotormaster car

mazgtr

Me too I could of sworned I could spool it even some....
Maybe its a bad turbo? Saturday I'm going to borrow a Garrett GT45 T6
and see what it does..I'm also going rip apart the intake manifold and all the intercooler piping and go over it. going to make sure my base timing is set right too...

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

check clearance between the compressor wheel and the comp housing.

hc

DelSlow

iTrader: (2)

You might want to check the compressor nut as well, it may be loose and the compressor wheel might be freewheeling. I would think it would seize up rather quickly if that were the case, but it's just another possiblity.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you have no leaks pre-turbine. Also make sure the turbine clearance to housing is within reason, make sure of the same for the compressor wheel to comp housing as well. If it is a custom unit, which I don't think it is, you will need to check the diffuser on the comp housing. Since I'm pretty sure yours is not, I wouldn't worry about it. Most of the leaks either pre-turbine or bad compressor seal will whistle similar to a anti-surge unit. If you have a leak pre-turbine it will take forever to spool. If your turbine wheel contour is not matched correctly to your turbine housing it will take forever to spool as well.

mazgtr

it has a anti-surge cover , it does whistle
I had no BOV for a couple of days and I was not getting any flutter from the turbo
sound clip with no Blow off vavle installed.. There is a not loud and not to obvious
exhaust note kinda a leak under the turbo near the bottom of the downpipe.
I did add wideband sensor bung myself and used a stick welder..

View My Video

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

Dude, a bridge should spool that thing no problem. The turbo is not too big.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

is the wastegate broke? maybe its stuck open...???

arghx

iTrader: (3)

This will not fully do the job... you will miss a lot of little leaks, or bigger leaks that spring up only when you get into boost. You need a pressure tester such as this: www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html or make your own out of Home Depot parts.

I suspect there is nothing wrong with your turbo and you have a bunch of little things making the car not boost properly.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

I have a GT42 with a 1.35A/R T6 and can spool 14psi @ 4.5K, but I am running a HBP

you should be able to build some boost, maybe not in 1st or 2nd but 3rd should spool decent. Normally 1st and 2nd go by so fast that you don't build much boost.

thector1

Yep.. Not the turbo. Leaks? Wastegate? Boost controller?

mazgtr

I suspect something deeper going on. The car does not rev fast.
Can be idling and then floor it and it just doesn't explode like my old street port motor did. This one is kinda sluggish revving and there is a flat spot going up to the upper rpms range..I checked the timing, changed the map to a diffrent map I had when it was a street port. There is a bit of black smoke when revving but nothing crazy....maybe my timing marks on the trigger wheel are off. I'm using a REW block but with a FC CAS and a FC front cover. I matched the FD trigger wheel to a FC pulley and made a 5 degree notch on the FD trigger wheel. When I go to zero my timing on the MicroTech. I take out the CAS, rotate the pulley till the 5 mark is with the pointer and insert the CAS the factory way and turn on the car.
Then I activite timing lock, get the timing light and move cas till the mark lines up with the pointer. The CAS has to be moved all most all the way counter clockwise to get the marks to line up. Then unlock timing lock and the car idles good and starts good with no pinging or knocking when driving, just has no performance power whats so ever, feels very flat and slow building steam when getting on the gas.. Been messing with rotarys for quite sometime this one has me stomped..

Guess there is a HUGE list of things I have to go over to track this promblem down
and it really irks me with the money I'm dumped into this project. I feel like parking the bitch for a while till I get the motivation to work on her again...

-faulty Injectors

-faulty throttlebody

-faulty timing marks-need to find TDC and go thru a daunting task of remarking the pulley/wheel using calibers, small dental mirrors flash light and lots of patience

-faulty ignition (less chance theres no misfire etc)

-compression? can't be bitch starts right up and has average vac readings for a bridge motor.

We'll I start from the simple to the hardest in trying to pin point the problem
Since I'm getting frustrated with this money pit.

ZAN_TUNING

iTrader: (1)

you running a full exhaust or just the downpipe at the moment? how high in the rpms are you going at full throttle in say... 2nd or 3rd gear? are you punching it all the way past 6,000 or so?

it never ever builds boost? just trying to dig deeper in to the problem.

mazgtr

5" exhaust with stainless 2x magnaflow race mufflers
yes I try to take it past 6-7L RPM and it just whines and whines but no power per se
just flat all the way to 6-7K with no buckling back and forth or any misfire or pegged rich, casue the secondarys never kick in, cause there map staged at 1PSI
nope the best it gets is 00" never hits positive manifold pressure.