Asleep

Lynn,

I went round and round with Sean and ATP about the restrictor. The turbo has restriction at its inlet on the housing. I went without the restrictor I purchased from ATP and have solved the smoking with an unkinked (yes, use 45's and no 90's) drain line with a nice smooth slope down to the block.

Tony

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I think all the little **** adds up. I was told not to use any further restrictor. I have made the drain nice and sloping. I also just finished my crankcase ventilation set up. This is pretty trick and cost all of $35. If it works out, I will let everyone know. In testing however I have found something really interesting.

Here is what I have done to asist crankcase evacuation. Like the stock setup, I am using the suction side of the turbo to create a vacuum on the block. As I do not want to injest oil into the intake track, I purchased a Amflo regular size air filter/separator. It serves 3 purposes. It acts as a catch tank and has a drain at the bottom of a clear polycarbonate bowl. It act as a separator to split the oil from the air. and it acts as a filter to keep the oil vapor from getting to the intake.

I tried the mini version which uses 1/4 npt line but when I blew through it, it had too much resistance. I was afraid it would cause more backpresure than the suction could overcome. I took it back and purchased the regular one. These are in the compressor section of home depot. $25. I felt no resistance to flow with this version.

I tapped a 3/8 hose barb into the lower side of the compressor hosing as my vacuum source and ran clear braided 3/8 hose to the filter out. Then I ran a short piece of 3/8 from the filter in to a tee. From the tee I ran two 1/4 vacuum lines to each of the two nipples on the filler neck. This way I get the maximum amount of volume out of the crankcase. We will see how it work.

The intersting thing here, and thereason I am writing this. When I attached everything, I blew into the line at the turbo end to make sure I had no leaks at any of the connection. To my suprise I could hear air coming from somewhere. I searched around and this is what I found. The air I was hearing was coming out of the downpipe. Just like the oil was. Is it normal for these turbos to be able to pass air past the turbine seal. I would imagine if air gets by then so could oil under presure. As quickly as I blow into the cranckcase, air comes out the downpipe.

This could be normal or maybe in my case the seal on my particular turbo is not 100% right. Sean, what do you think?

Mike

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

Fired her up and she works like a champ. No oil and no smoke. Will see how the separator holds up over the next week. So far nothing in it of course but we are definately on the road to recovery. I appreciate everybody's help. I am going to take some oics over the next few days and post them.

Mike

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Sweet
From disaster back to perfect

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

yeah, funny how the littlest things can create such a huge mess on these cars. Now I have to get my 2 stroke resevoir working with the omp adapter and my electric water pump and the methanol injection

The water pump will be setup to circulate coolant after shut down to keep heat soak away to save my coolant seals.

The methanol, well we all know what that is for.

Mike

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the late reply but here it goes, First off, the turbine seal is a piston ring. Like with most piston rings there is an end gap on this seal. I guess we would only be assuming that the turbo was built correctly with the piston ring installed. If you blow air into the crankcase and you can hear a leak out the downpipe this could be normal if its a small amount of air seeping by the end gap of the piston ring. Since it hasn't been put under a load there has never been any pressure in the turbine housing to keep the oil on the other side of the piston ring. That's how it works is when the exhaust pressure in the housing is present it keeps the oil on the other side of the piston ring. no pressure-- oil leak. Once the car has been driven and heated up a couple of times the oil that seeps past the end gap will burn to form a carbon build up around the piston ring area and therefore it will "seal" up better and you could get by with longer periods of idling. On a new turbo (or freshly rebuilt) idling (low or high RPMs) will definitely allow the oil to leak out, because of no pressures in the housings.

Does the engine have large enough crankcase breathers? If you build too much crankcase pressure the turbo can't drain. It creates a pressure lock in the drain tube and the gravity flow return oil is blocked and can't get through the drain. Is the drain tube kink, blocked or running uphill... this would also cause the problem. Since we know you've already adressed all these we should be good to go. Oil drain should be no smaller than .625" according to Garrett

Asleep

What water pump did you use? The Meizere <sp>? If so, how did you tackle the alternator mounting?

Are you having fun yet?

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

I am using a CSI 925, but in doing that I needed to relocate my alt. and fab up additional plumbing off the block.

modrx7

iTrader: (1)

Mike, What plugs are you running to start it up and break it in? I am gonna try to get my car started this weekend.

Edan

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

asleep, If you were reffering to me about the electric water pump, I am not running the elec water pump as my main pump. I am using a small auxillary Volkswagen pump to circulate coolant after shut down. It will be plumbed into the heater hose just below the turbo. I want to hook it up to come on with one of the fans when the car starts to heatsoak after shut down. I plan on tying the electric in with the miata thermo switch as my trigger. This way when temps go over 207 on comes the pump and fan.

Modrx7. I am using my old bur9eq's for now. I did not want to foul out a new set. The car is not idleing well so I guess I need to get new ones. I eventually want to run br9eix leading and br10eix trailing when everything is set up. These are iridiums. I have read that the trailing plugs are a possible source for detonation. Since I have dropped the leading in heat range, it only makes sense to do the same with the trailing. For now I will probably just get another set of bur9eq for breakin.

Sean, this is what I figured as for the piston ring. It has to have an end gap and this will be the weak spot untill it gets more carboned up. The compressor side should be a carbon seal.

Mike

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

Well it might be a while before I am able to get some dyno results. I just had the compression checked to get some base line numbers for a before and after breakin comparrison. The results are as follows.

engine hot,

rear rotor 7.1/7.5/7.3 @274 rpm
front rotor 7.5/7.5/6.5 @278 rpm

This is with the mazda digital compression tester. The front seems to have a slight problem. I am not too concerned with the overall peak numbers but the variations between rotor faces.

The car only has 150 miles so far so we are going to see how it looks at 1500. If it is still low on the front rotor after breakin, I guess the motor will have to come out.

Any thoughts from the more experienced guys out there? I am also seeing condinsation underneath my oil filler cap. I am running evans npg+ so there is no water in the coolant. Where is the water coming from? I have a catch can setup between the oil filler neck and the suction side of the turbo. This too is collecting mostly water.

mike

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

I would assume because you re used all your housings its going to be slightly lower in compression, it should improve when it breaks in. But dont expect 9's all the way around.

MFilippello

iTrader: (2)

It's not the values that I am worried about. It's the one low 6.5 on the front rotor. The other two faces are 7.5 and one drops to 6.5. This would seem to indicate a side seal. If it was a bad apex seal then it should affect the two faces adjacent the bad apex seal. The front rotor in my case has two cosistent numbers and then one that is a whole point lower. The rear rotor is more consistent.

mike