Just got my apex'i single turbo kit....
#1
Ghost Ride the Whip
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Just got my apex'i single turbo kit....
Just got my turbo kit from Tony today and opened it up. I must say everything is very nice and complete. One thing concerns me though... When looking at the turbine, the intake side is pretty big, but the exhaust side of the turbo is puny. Does anyone know what's up with this? Max? Cheuk??? I'm even wondering if they sent me the wrong turbo by accident, it says RHX6 on it, but the exhaust side looks like it was made for a friggin' honda...
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I've heard of "newer" apex kits that allow airpump retention. I've asked Jason about it, and he's heard of it, and is actually looking into it for me.
Thank you though, if he gets back to me I'll let you know.
Thank you though, if he gets back to me I'll let you know.
#6
Ghost Ride the Whip
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I've heard of "newer" apex kits that allow airpump retention. I've asked Jason about it, and he's heard of it, and is actually looking into it for me.
#7
I think you have the right turbo. I, too, am very surprised how much larger the compressor is than the turbine. Especially since Sport Compact Car keeps having articles about how the sizes should be with 15% of each other. If you open it up, you'll see that a lot of the difference is that the compressor housing is bigger, but the compressor itself is still quite a bit larger than the turbine. I think the turbine is 62mm at it largest diameter, but I don't know exactly how big the compressor is.
-Max
-Max
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it looks like they made it small to speed up the exhaust velocity, maybe to spool the bb turbine at more rpm than a regular turbo?
mike
running 20b fc 2+2
mike
running 20b fc 2+2
#16
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1fookntitefd are u running that turbo on a stock motor.
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With good tuning, I see no reason why you couldn't run 15 psi daily on the APEXi.
The wastegate spring is rated at 1.0 bar = 14.7 psi... so you won't be able to run less without chopping the spring.
The wastegate spring is rated at 1.0 bar = 14.7 psi... so you won't be able to run less without chopping the spring.
#19
Ghost Ride the Whip
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The wastegate spring is rated at 1.0 bar = 14.7 psi... so you won't be able to run less without chopping the spring.
#20
"Chopping the spring" is reducing the spring tension.
So, if the spring is rated for 14psi, it'll take at least that much pressure to compress the spring. Thus, releasing the "wasted" energy to the exhaust, bypassing the turbo.
If you reduce the spring tension, it'll require less pressure to compress the spring (or open the wastegate). Thus, bypassing the turbo with less boost.
The theory is that the more coils in the spring, the more tension (resilience) it will have (assuming same width and material and coil spacing). Taking away some of the coils (or chopping) should reduce the spring tension.
Thus, the wastegate will open up with less boost.
J
J
So, if the spring is rated for 14psi, it'll take at least that much pressure to compress the spring. Thus, releasing the "wasted" energy to the exhaust, bypassing the turbo.
If you reduce the spring tension, it'll require less pressure to compress the spring (or open the wastegate). Thus, bypassing the turbo with less boost.
The theory is that the more coils in the spring, the more tension (resilience) it will have (assuming same width and material and coil spacing). Taking away some of the coils (or chopping) should reduce the spring tension.
Thus, the wastegate will open up with less boost.
J
J
#21
In very general terms, cutting coils off a spring will increase the spring rate, and pre-loading it won't change the rate at all. For suspension springs, for instance, you are supposed to pre-load by about an inch or two and then measure the spring rate. The rate should remain relatively constant until the coils start touching each other and then the rate goes up (because you are reducing the number of coils at work).
However, I imagine that out near the free length of the spring, pre-load will change the rate (hence the pre-load required for proper suspension spring testing). And removing coils changes the free length and thus pre-load. The A'PEXi wastegate does have a thing you can turn to change the pre-load with a jamb nut to maintain the setting. I haven't played with it to see how this adjustment changes boost.
Given my unfortnate luck with the A'PEXi wastegate for road racing (it sticks, sometimes open, sometimes closed), I suggest switching to the HKS Stainless Steel Racing wastegate. HKS has a reputation for making reliable wastegates and it seems to be the easiest one to bolt to the RX6 kit besides the A'PEXi wastegate that it comes with. Get a wastegate with a spring rate that yields the lowest reasonable boost you intend to run and use a boost controller to run a little bit more than the spring tension.
-Max
However, I imagine that out near the free length of the spring, pre-load will change the rate (hence the pre-load required for proper suspension spring testing). And removing coils changes the free length and thus pre-load. The A'PEXi wastegate does have a thing you can turn to change the pre-load with a jamb nut to maintain the setting. I haven't played with it to see how this adjustment changes boost.
Given my unfortnate luck with the A'PEXi wastegate for road racing (it sticks, sometimes open, sometimes closed), I suggest switching to the HKS Stainless Steel Racing wastegate. HKS has a reputation for making reliable wastegates and it seems to be the easiest one to bolt to the RX6 kit besides the A'PEXi wastegate that it comes with. Get a wastegate with a spring rate that yields the lowest reasonable boost you intend to run and use a boost controller to run a little bit more than the spring tension.
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; 06-14-02 at 05:59 AM.
#23
Ghost Ride the Whip
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Is max the only one who has ever had problems with the Apex'i wastegate? I have never heard of any other rx6 owners having problems otherwise with it, which is why i haven't yet purchased a different wastegate. If anyone else has any problems with it, please do not hesitate to post.