I've been searching for over an hour and no answer to my question. The doode who sold me the kit never sent me the DAMN instructions book.

I been having hard times figuring out the oil return lines/pipes. they seem like they don't want fit, I tryed every way I thought they'd work to no avail.

Is either of the oil inlets on the motor supposed to be closed up, or both will still remain in use w/the rx6 turbo same as w/the twins?


Can anyone help me out, I'd realy appreciate it...

 

I could've sworn they never made RX6.

I could be wrong though.

 

The oil return port at the rear of the engine should be covered with a block-off plate. There is a long hard oil return pipe that bolts to the bottom of the RX6 center housing. Then a rubber 90 degree elbow with some aluminized fiberglass heat shielding on it. Then a nearly horizontal hard pipe, bolted to the front oil return port on the engine. That's how it should be with the RX-6 kit that had the turbo up high. I imagine it is a little different for the manifold that mounts the turbo lower, but it probably isn't that much different.

The RX6 is a turbo made by IHI, sold in a kit by A'PEXi.

-Max

 

Max, thanks for chiming in.

There are 3 hard lines (two 45 degrees and one almoast 90 degrees a tad bigger size than the 2), that looks pretty much like they need to go on both oil return ports.
I also thought that the rear oil port on the motor needed to be closed up with a block-off plate but, where the hell the 3rd pipe goes, and I don't seem to have a b-off plate either.


Look at the pic of the hard lines.




Thanks a million.

 

Well, those are different than mine were because you have the low manifold and I had the high one. My guess is that the bottom one in the pic bolts to the front oil drain on the block, the middle one in the pic bolts to the bottom of the turbo (since it looks like it would meet up at the right angle) and the 90 degree one is for something else entirely (air pump?). I can't think of any reason why both return ports would be used, when one is perfectly sufficient. The previous owner of the kit probably forgot to send the b-off plate. Keith sells a nice thick-looking one for $16:
http://kgparts.com/diy.htm

-Max

 

Thanks Max, I will look again tomorow for the b-off plate, it's a brand new kit and parts shouln't be missing, it definitely makes sense what you're sayng, and I'll play around w/the lines and try to make'em fit.

Thanks for the help.

 

I looked at one of those kits at Super Autobacs tonight. I am not sure it uses the front drain port on the engine block now. It might use the rear port.

Also, for anyone looking for an RX6 kit, Super Autobacs in Stanton, CA is selling them (or maybe just the one in the display case?) for $2800. They also have an HKS T04E kit (I think) for $2400. Both seem to be very good deals.

-Max

 

OK, I insalled the hard oil lines today, there was no way I could do it without cutting the hard pipes shorter and than use the hose that was provided in the kit.

The rear engine oil port is totaly of limits, because the exhaust manifold will not allow you to install any of the hardware exept for the b-off plate (which by the way I found in one of the little plastic bags) ....

The oil return plumbing went fine but, I broke the oil restrictor fitting that goes on turbo and the flexi oil feed line.
As I was tighning it, I completely lost it, I overtightened it, and so it broke. Luckily enough, the brocken threaded peace in the turbo feed port was easy to remove without any problems... Man I was scared it might not come out without drillin and all the crap fall in the turbo and kiss the my new turbo goodbuy...


Anyone knows where I can find a new oil feed restrictor fitting???

 

Is this what you are looking for?

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=GTBB

It's the fitting for a GT35r, but it might work out.

PS-I was tring like hell to pull it together to get that kit earlier this year. I just couldn't come up with the funds fast enough. Hope you like it!!

 

Good Find, thanks for looking out.

Yep, that's exactly what I'm looking for, I just hope it's the same size, I'll order it anyway.

I always wanted the RX6 kit or the GT35/40, waited for a long time for it, and so my beatiful wife got it for me for valentines,.

 

OK, I called ATP and was gonna order the fitting but they said it will not fit on a A'pexi turbo, the sales guy said that he tryed all diferent fittings but none worked on a'pexi turbos, as they had similar requests many times before.

Anyone knows the thread paterns of this damn fitting?

 

You may be able to call the guys at Apexi US in Cali. They may feel like helping, most of the time not, but occasionally its ok... I heard that the part is $90 for my RX6, but mine is the original configuration. (see if you can do a search for RX6 oil restictors or fittings either here or the other forum.) I have also heard of CNC machine shops recreating the original from billet metal. Keep your broken parts.

Mainly you need a restrictor pill or fitting that can be set to restrict oil pressures to below 35-55 psi. You may then be able to fabricate an intermediate pipe with a pill inserted somewhere between the oil feed and the RX6 inlet.

 

OK, I gave up trying to find that damn fitting, so I decided to make my own.

I took a trip to a local hardware store and got an aluminum bolt, size 7/16 thread pattern 20, which is the exact size of the oil line side, so the other side of the bolt had to be cut to size 3/8 thread pattern 16, to fit the turbo inlet, using a thread cutter.

After I cut the threads to oil inlet specs I drilled a 1/16th hole (smallest bit I could find) through the bolt for oil passage, the hole I drilled is almoast the same size as on the original fitting, just a tad bigger, very little so it shouldn't make a difference in pressure and create an internal leak( haven't gotten to that part yet!)

It looks very simple but it fits great.



To get the correct sizes and thread pattern I used my Tap & Die set, I'm not sure if one sides of the fitting had to be metric but as far that goes my sizes are 100% correct and the fitting fits like a condom.

Total cost : $ .50

 

It seems extremely likely that the connection to the line will leak (when pressurized, if not immediately) since it isn't going to have a male AN flare fitting on one side. I think AN flare fittings are a 22 degree bevel, which you may be able to cut for a good seal, but without it the fitting seems destined to leak.

Is there an AN male flare fitting to NPT pipe fitting that you might be able to purchase and adapt, that maybe you could have a captured orifice (piece of metal with hole in it that seals okay in the passage but is mechanically prevented from beign pushed into the turbo when the fitting is connected)?

-Max

 

Or take existing broken fitting and have an aluminum bolt welded to it to screw into the turbo?

-Max

 

Agreed, it will leak of course if installed just like that, that's very understandable, since is not flared.
On my post above I didn't specify what should be used to prevent form the oil line leak, my bad.

On the turbo side I'm gonna use thread sealer (high temp.), similar to the contractors heating pipe thread sealer, a very small amount so it doesn't get in the turbo and clog the turbo internals.

On the oil line side {(where the 22 degree (as specified by Max) flare is needed)} I'm gonna make a special gasket (about 5mm of thickness, aprox. same as the flare on the a'pexi fitting) which is going to hold tight the bolt against the inside piece where the oil line bevel is, that will do it for sure.

My idea right now as far as gasket is to use the a piece of a oil filter rubber gasket, which is known to withstand higher temps and does not get damaged from oil...

-------------------------
I remember not to long ago, I got stuck on a gas line installation job (comercial gas clothing drier), where the the local plumbing stores were closed and I needed to finish up, I used a regular 3/4 coupling instead of the 3/4 gas fiting that has the same exact flare as the a'pexi oil fitting does and I cut a piece of rubber as gasket to stick in between the coupling and the flex gas line,,, it never leaked, and of course natural gas is alot more likely to leak.

 

All right, my inventing skills don't just stop there. , Max you gonna like this...

Using my noodles last night, I came up with an amazing way of fixing the brocken A'pexi oil fitting without the need of glue or welding, which may result in serious turbo damage in case any of the above decides to let go while boosting, or even in regular driving.

This is how the broken fitting looked like:
Sorry, this immage looks horrible, it's a camera phone pic, the rest of them are alot better.


OK, this is how I succesfully fixed the fitting.
I took a file and filed the edges of the broken fitting, enough to make it even.


Got a little brass screw size 10mm 32 thread, which is slighly bigger that the hole inside the fitting (pic above), which is maybe about 8mm.

I threaded the insides of the fitting to the same size as the little screw, 10-32 .






.... next

 

Than I cut the head of that screw of.



And I drilled a 5/64 hole right through it, which is slighly bigger than the one on the exit of the fitting.





...next

 

Cleaned everything up with alot of compressed air, to free the parts up from all the drilling and other debree.
Now before I put the pieces back together I used a very small amount of high temp thread sealer (not shown on pix). and screw them back together.



Voala, here goes my fitting, good as new...






Enjoy...

 

damm john, you got some skills

 

Nice work John. You were scaring me with the rubber bits approach.

-Max

 

Hahahaa,,, thanks guys...

 

Unbefuckinglieveable!!!

Outstanding fabrication work......Nobody's gonna screw you for $90 for a 10 cent part...

Congrats!

 

Lol, thanks Jeff...

 

It's amazing what desperation will make us do at times