Info req: HKS 50mm vacuum nipple
Yep, as Ninja said- HKS does not use NPT threads.
It is 1/8 BMET which is British tapered thread related to Whitworth that most Metric countries use.
You don't have to order the HKS part, 1/8 BMET is available if you shop online. Mcmaster-Carr for instance will have it.
1/8 NPT will thread in with force, but strips the treads on the WG.
It is 1/8 BMET which is British tapered thread related to Whitworth that most Metric countries use.
You don't have to order the HKS part, 1/8 BMET is available if you shop online. Mcmaster-Carr for instance will have it.
1/8 NPT will thread in with force, but strips the treads on the WG.
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Originally Posted by RETed
Oh oh, what are you planning now??? 
-Ted

-Ted
The damn wastegate is too close to the trans housing and I need a 90 degree fitting.
I need to get under the car more often.
I don't know the construction of the HKS 50mm wastegate, but on my HKS 60mm WG I believe one could just unbolt the the "head" of the unit and rotate it in its bolt pattern to "re-clock" where the nipples are relative to the transmission.
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
I don't know the construction of the HKS 50mm wastegate, but on my HKS 60mm WG I believe one could just unbolt the the "head" of the unit and rotate it in its bolt pattern to "re-clock" where the nipples are relative to the transmission.
Yea but that solves the top nipple because the side nipple port is on the lower part so rotating it does no good
Even if I did rotate it, the dump tube will be facing the wrong way.
Even if I did rotate it, the dump tube will be facing the wrong way.
Wait, are you saying the cast iron poppet valve body is also the lower piston body on the HKS 50mm?
Seems like that would fry the diaphram.
Can't you remove the top of the piston body that houses the piston/diaphrom/spring where the upper nipple is and then remove the bottom of the piston body from the cast iron poppet valve body that the lower nipple is on and re-clock that?
Seems like that would fry the diaphram.
Can't you remove the top of the piston body that houses the piston/diaphrom/spring where the upper nipple is and then remove the bottom of the piston body from the cast iron poppet valve body that the lower nipple is on and re-clock that?
Yea, I'm going to switch the 2 fittings as it should be the same thread.
The vacuum hose w/thermal sleeve is too close for my comfort as it is now it's about 1/2" from the wrapped downpipe. Clocking it does no good since the dump is opposite of the vacuum port. The top is not a problem since I can clock it. I found a 90 degree fitting so all is well.
The vacuum hose w/thermal sleeve is too close for my comfort as it is now it's about 1/2" from the wrapped downpipe. Clocking it does no good since the dump is opposite of the vacuum port. The top is not a problem since I can clock it. I found a 90 degree fitting so all is well.
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