I searched "home made kit", "kits", "Do it yourself" etc and couldnt find one so I thought if anyone can put together how to make your own single turbo kit for the FD. Like fittings, lines etc. Everything I guess minus the downpipe.

 

make ur own i am..
hks cast manifold - 300
cheap turbo blowzilla -800
hks wastegate - 350
lines, gaskets, etc from ATP -200
so now you need a DP and filter
these estimates are ruff and you may be able to find things cheaper. so 1650 and you saved yourself money from buying the above parties kit.

 

This is NOT the for sale sec.

And this would help alot of peeps thinking of building what they want, with the parts they want.

I am taking your posts out of this thread.

Later, Jeff

 

Water cooled and oil cooled or oil only? V-Band? What kind of IC is it going with? Airpump or no?
Power goals?

 

Ok

to try to help...


Oil lines
-3 an for a -8 an return
or
-4 an for a -12 an return

Water lines. 3/8 lines.

the fitting sizes depend on which turbo you buy. Whom ever you buy the turbo from...should easily be able to tell you which fittings are required.

Choosing turbos:
0.6 compressor housing (cold side) is as small as most people go on a FD(275-400 hp). 0.7 and greater compressor housing sizes tend to flow from 300-450 range. And then there are the bigger turbos.

T04e, b and s turbos are "older" technology wheels...the GT series compressor wheels are the newest. But the difference between the old and new technology wheels are only a few percentage. Worth the upgrade if you're buying new or going a step up in turbo size...but not worth it...imho...if you go from similar sizes...like from a T04s to a GT35. If you're buying new...get the GT wheel. If you already have a T04s...you'll only get a small increase by going to a GT wheel of the same size.

Ball bearing turbos tend to spool a bit faster, but tend to be a bit more temperamental when it comes to oil quality.

A little Shaft play up and down is normal in non-ball bearing turbos because the bearings for the shaft are 2 rings...one inside the other...and there is the oil space inbetween the 2. there should be zero in out shaft play in and out.

Exhaust housings: anything smaller than 0.84 and you will be ridiculed in this forum the smaller the number the faster the boost response, but the less likely you'll be dyno champion with the same turbo and a larger AR exhaust housing.

buy as big of a wastegate as you can afford. The farther you are from boost creep...the better. Boost creep is when your wastegate can't flow enough exhaust away from the turbine wheel and your boost continues to increase...even though you don't want it too.

You'd want to run a 360 degree thrust bearing and water cooling for a street turbo to make your turbo as reliable long term as possible.

A divided housing tends to give better boost response.

when you build your downpipe...weld the wide band bung farther down the downpipe. near where the mid pipe bolts on. and don't weld it so if there is water pooling in the exhaust...that the sensor will sit in a puddle.

if you are having exhaust leaks...get some inscense and push it around the area until you can tell where the smoke is being blown from.

build a cap over the turbo and pressurize the intake system to ensure you don't have boost leaks. Boost leaks will make your turbo work a lot harder than it needs to and reduce your boost response.

That help?

john

 

Thanks teeter,

That was help and I hope you sell your kit.

Fatman0203,

I think if you search this sec you will find the oil line info too. Also look into the fuel setup. You have to spend alot on fuel mods too.

Later, Jeff

 

Whats the HP range where you have to pull out the stock injectors? I was planning on leaving the stock system in for now, and just upgrading the fuel pump to read 300 or 320 hp.

 

i maxed out the stock fuel system with a big fuel pump at 9psi on a t04s

bout 300hp