PhatManBUD

Im having the downpipe done in the next few days. and as of right now, im trying to figure out how to make the fmic piping. and thats most of it. i have fuel pump and injector upgrades, xs is loading a single turbo map onto my ecu right now, i took out all the solenoids, i have the blockoff plates. i took out my AC. almost there!

SPOautos

You mean so far so good that he was only running 10psi and making 300rwhp (horrible for a T70) then when he got to 15psi on the dyno it blew up??? Yea, your right....that IS the reality lol

vintagespeed

You guys are so funny. Gotta bash because of some dumb Honda owner trashed his turbo & then tried to glue it back together & blamed the company. How blind. There are so many other factors for making hp & reliability. ANY turbo can fail under the wrong conditions and I hate to break it to you but oil seals fail, yep it happens and not just on the cheap turbos.

AImec Racing

Remember I have NOT tested the XS unit, The one that went out of seals was the Master Power T70, though, it was from SSautochrome also. I have one XS here but I decided to fix the MP after what I lately heard of the XS. I can't tell you anything about this one but how it looks.


About the MP

The 300 rwhp was with this Turbo. There are other threads talking very good about the MP Turbos so I'll try to keep it ... I really like how it performs anyways. I went to a shop and they will charge $250 for new bearings, seals, VSR balancing etc... practically a new turbo with a 6 months full warranty. So, if it works this time, is still a good deal 350+250 for a quality turbo ... this might be a solution to the XS also...


About the XS:
It doesn't look glued and tack but the line could be clearly identified. Though, it would have to be opened to confirm, but just viewing it and compare it with the MP is just no contest in quality terms...

AImec Racing

yeap, is true about it blew up, but 300 @ 10psi in a Dynojet at PR is NOT bad. remember i didn't swap the exhaust to 1.06, is still .84 (lower hp ...no lag!)

AImec Racing

PhatManBUD:

Your turbo doesn't looks like the one everyone is blame it on, yours is directly bolted to the manifold so it should be the T-60 (60/1.06) not the T70 ...Isn't it ?

In that the case, I think we still have no feedback on that turbo... we have been always talked about the T70... am I correct?

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

I think the discussion is based on the "quality" (or there lack of) of these "kits" (<--- notice plural) from "SSAutoChrome, Master Power, XS Power, Stone Racing etc. and not a basis of discussion concerning what performances people are getting from one particular kit (T70, T60-1 etc). Those T60-1, 60-1, T04S "kits" that these guys are selling are NOT true Garrett 60-1 compressor specs. Notice I said SPECS and not parts because its obvious these are not Garrett parts. These guys use "T60-1, 60-1, T04S and T70" as buzzwords to sell those turbos and turbo kits and those numbers mean ZERO as far as the comp specs you may think your getting. The T70 also is not in spec with any Garrett based compressor wheel.

~Mike..............

modrx7

iTrader: (1)

I am not so sure anybody is surprised... you get what you pay for!!

PhatManBUD

This is true, they are just selling words, but its good to have people actually test to product for those looking for a cheap alternative to twins (i know i did, considering my twins were just pouring out white smoke) . I mean if the turbo craps out, 4-bolts take it out, so what. I mean i did just pay 700 for the whole thing so its not like im gonna feel like OH NO NOW I HAVE TO BUY A NEW TURBO!! it would be more like, ooo i guess the money i saved is going for a better turbo anyways.

Rx7pimpin

I am not taking up for the quality for the turbo because I do not know first hand and neither does anyone that has chimed in yet. Until anyone eles continues to make the statement that they suck lets hear some real world use.

I will agree that you get what you pay for, but not in all cases. For example: I just bought a SONY 50" Plasma HDTV, does everyone agree sony is a reputible brand? My buddy just bought a ESA 50" Plasma. Many of you probably have not heard of ESA. My Sony crapped out in a week and his still works great. I paid almost more than half then he did, now what does that tell you...........I got a bad one, it happens. Has anyone every had a XS eng, HKS, Greddy, ect. turbo crap out? It happens.

Now, I am not saying that a $700 turbo kit is the same or better than a $3500-$4000 kit, but it might not be as bad as you think. There are cheaper alternatives that fit certain peoples usage. Some people drive Geo's and it will get them to the same place the Lexus will, but I think we all agree that the Lexus is a better car.

It is obvious that that pic that was posted was either a demo or someone glued it back together, so lets not make our decision on that. Let's hear some of the comments after it is actually used and then make up your mind.

PhatManBUD

agreed. thats why im gonna be a test dummy for you all haha

SPOautos

Now that I read what Zero R mentioned about the specs I went back and looked. Its no wonder you only made 300rw @ 10psi.....that turbo isnt a T70 at all. Its just a buzzword to help it sell. Actually, I think calling it a buzzword is letting them off WAY too easy because its really just outright deceitful. Do you even really know what turbo that is??? What the specs are??? What is the HP potential??? Even if it ran perfect I wouldnt buy it cause I have no idea what kind of power its designed for or what its efficiency ranges are.

Anyway, since the turbo crapped that means you spent $700+shipping for thier manifold and wg. I would have spent another $300 and got some good stuff that I know what its made out of and know all the specs of it. Do you know what material your manifold is made from? What about the wg?

Stephen

PhatManBUD

Damn the server crapped out right whne i hit reply.

PhatManBUD

Im sure the manifold is made out of stainless.

Now, what if the turbo does work good, then it would be worth every penny. If it doesnt work out, then ill throw up a red flag so no one else will buy it. As of right now whoever has it has had no problems thats why they arent saying anything about it on here, if not, then all the negative feedback is all word of mouth. There is no hard evidence that this kit is crap or not. Looks like ill be one of the first to find out.

Just because something is sold on ebay doesnt mean its pure crap. I mean take a look at the megan racing downpipe and midpipe combo, when it came out it was 100 bucks. Turns out its not a piece of crap. I wouldve regretted buying a $250+ downpipe after that. This kit also sells on their website, if it makes you more confident.

Ebay is just a place that makes it easier to search for what you want and easy to do business considering all you need to do is write a description, post a pic, and have a paypal account. Its a market place. I buy all my stuff from ebay almost. Sometimes its a good buy and sometimes it isnt. But id much rather pay far less then msrp.

Some would ask, how could you trust it, being 700 dollars? Well, I cant but im not scared to find out. My friend got a turbo off an isuzu truck and put it on his FD. It had a little shaft play, did he trust it, prob not as first. Slapped it on anyways, and it works great.

SPOautos

if I was making a exhaust manifold out of good high quality stainless it would say it all over the website. It would cost about $500 just for the material to make that manifold out of good high quality 16 gauge 321ss. Maybe its a thin gauge 304 SS that falls apart.....I have no idea....which is exactly my point. You dont know what your buying.

Actually, I've inspected the dp and mp that sells for a $100. I'd have to dissagree, I consider it a pos and suggested a friend to use a different one and I didnt even know it was a $50 Ebay knock off dp. The main problem was the entrance of the dp was a lot smaller than it should have been. Take a dp gasket and lay it over the hole and you'll see.

The material used for a dp is no where near as important as a turbo manifold. You can use el cheapo thin gauge 304 for a dp with no problems. There different in heat between a dp and exhaust manifold is huge.

Stephen

Rx7pimpin

I have the SS AutoChrome DP and N1 knock off catback for 2 years still in perfect condition and mated up perfectly with my RX7fashion downpipe.

RETed

The pipes are cheap *** SS304.
I can't confirm what the flanges are.



-Ted

Rx7pimpin

I sure there are some cheap *** 304 out there but the MP and N1 knock off cat back I received about 2 yrs ago is not 304, but also did not pay $99 for DP,MP and Catback. I paid around $300 for MP and Catback and after 2 yrs still looks great

modrx7

iTrader: (1)

My statement was sorta a General Statement about "LIFE" and things... it seems to hold true in most circumstance... If you bought your TV new, I am sure Sony Warrantied it and your new is working fine, if not... sorry to hear you lost some money. But people buy brand names, because they brand names have too much to loose if they don't stand behind their products...

Edan

Thats why I WENT THIS WAY See Sig------>>>

SPOautos

Yea, I dont know about the fitment we never put it on the car. I was saying the hole is too small. In other words if you take the Ebay dp and lay the gasket on it (on the turbo end) you'll see that the hole is much snaller than the hole on the turbo outlet. If you use that dp you really need to port match it with a gasket. The only prob is good luck if its SS. I htink it was 304ss which is fine for a dp but its going to be a bitch and a half to port match SS with a dremel or die grinder. I dont have the time for that, I'd rather spend another $100 and get one that the ports match up to the turbo outlet and gasket.

Stephen

Rx7pimpin

I guess I got lucky, mine matched up to the gasket perfectly with the same size hole.

AImec Racing

ok, in "kit" terms, I had now problems exept for the turbo issues. As said before, WG & Manifold are ok.

FYI

I tear down the "T-70" Master Power turbo this weekend before going to the shop. It was not a front or rear seal problem. It was the thrust bearing. The thrust bearing had marks from the thrust collar. The bearing and the spacer are two-piece parts (that might help in failure terms).

I went to the shop and they told me that those kinds of failures could be caused due to BOV size or lack of turbo lubrication. As per shop recommendations, I bought a TO4B Garrett rebuild kit $45 and a Garrett thrust bearing-spacer (1 piece) $25. The bolt pattern is not the same (MP 180º Garrett 160º) so we drilled to fit. The remainder of the kit fitted with no problems. Balancing was $45.

Though the root cause is uncertain, I'll install a 50 mm BOV and change the oil line.
I'll install today and let you know...

BTW

I paid $102 for manifold, $127 WG and $335 Turbo (bid per item apart last year). + Garrett internals & balancing $115

It's to early to said if it was a good deal but lets wait to see how it goes ... $679 until now souds good...

SPOautos

If you dont want it to go bad again you need to use a 360 degree thrust bearing with it.

Rx7pimpin

Keep us informed.

AImec Racing

Done!

Turbo is working fine again, no somokin! I'll set it for 15 psi today and then go to dyno to see if I finally get the 400+ ponies...

I'll keep in touch...