Searched the forums and found no data on the kit and turbo, has anyone used this kit and turbo? Does anyone have their own Dyno charts apart from HKS'?

The older T04z kit has Dyno charts and info on the forums showing they make 450whp+ at 15lbs with the power band starting from 5000 up to 8000rpm.

Looking specifically at this kit because its significantly cheaper than equivalent sized ball bearing turbo kits here in Aus, and I'm not concerned about low down power and torque (under 4000rpm).

 

I can't fathom how a HKS kit would be cheaper than buying a fabricated manifold or Artec and a pulsar G series clone or a BW locally, and get a wider powerband to go with it.

What sources are you looking at?

 

I looked at Pacs website for the single turbo with a g35-900, which does look like amazing value but I can get the HKS kit for half of that.

Raceonly also has a good value kit but again almost double the price I can get the HKS kit for. I can't find any EFR turbo kits and the turbos on their own cost as must as the kit.

I don't want to use Pulsar or any Chinese brands just as a personal preference. And I noticed a lot of the Japanese cars that I am going to base my build on use this setup or similar cheaper turbos like the GBC35-700 but I can't find any Dynos.

 

Being in Australia, I feel like an artec+Garrett would be the most cost effective. Turbo kits charge a super premium for convenience. Plumbing is not hard and even buying the tools to do it..... still is not hard or expensive at all. The downpipe is the most difficult part but anyone who can cut and weld stainless can make that.

Look into not buying a kit and putting the parts together yourself. The jdm turbos typically don't offer much in terms of competitive performance but they sure do have THEE most style. Those compressor housings are just beautiful. If you buy it for that reason alone, it's worth the lag........ to me.

 

Thanks, I was looking at kits because I thought it'd be simpler for me as it's going to be the first time I switch an FD from Twins and its on my own.

Regarding the lag, is it just spool time? Say 1000rpm later compared to a EFR or G series, or is it going to make throttle response worse etc...

 

That's a different discussion but I think using the word response would be more appropriate here. An efr exists in a continuous state of super position. It is both in and out of boost at all times. G series I have no experience so I don't know.

The jdm turbos (typically) or an inappropriately sized turbo will come with the drawback of oddly timed response characteristics. Depending on your goal, that may actually be desirable. You have to decide what you want for you. Dont let anyone TELL YOU whats right.

I have an sxr362 on my car with a stock port and the delayed response is actually what I want. I have an efr8374 as a "spare" but I won't use it because it's not what I want. The 4.77 in my car would not be tolerable with it.

To make a recommendation, if you describe what your ideal driving characteristics are then the hive mind can point you in the right direction at least to narrow your options.

 

Currently I have a upgraded twin set up, the main goal for going single is to have less heat and complexity so that I can track the car year round while still going on nice cruises here and there.

I don't want more than 450hp, and 15lbs of boost for reliability reasons (I'm sick of E85), and I want top end power I like to rev the car out, currently it tops out just under 7000rpm I want to atleast take it to 8000rpm if not higher.

Current Build is:

Ported (similar to a street port), rotors balanced and dowelled motor, E85 for fuel Upgraded TwinsUpgraded SMIC 3" downpipe and mid pipe with a catArc Titanium CatbackInjectors hi flowed oem injectors 1100cc primary’s 1500cc secondary’sApexi ECU10.5 Ngk racing plugsHi flow Fuel pump setup - dual pumps and hanger - Walbro / TI Automotive 525 lph Unleaded & E85 In Tank Fuel Pump. Autoexe intake

Intended changes to the build are:
HKS special kit including single turbo GTIII-4R
FEED intercooler kit, hoses, radiator, AST, throttle elbow, air intake kit
Radium fuel hanger with surger tank

 

If your fuel hanger is from matey or one that doesn't have an additional surge bowl make sure you don't track the car with less than about half way on the gauge, they do get fuel surge if you are having a go.

 

Will do, it's from CJ motorsports from memory so I will probably not track the car until I've switched to the radium hanger anyway

 

I've got the HKS kit sitting here, I bought it without the turbo as I thought I was being clever and was going to cheap out with a chinese turbo - I appreciate that this is not something that you want to do
However it sounds like the kit might only work specifically with the GTiii-4R due to a specific turbine housing, which is pretty sly of HKS if that is the case (unconfirmed)
The rest of the kit is a really good deal. I feel like the turbo is pretty pricey for what it is. I am very interested to see if the T04Z (predecessor) or 3582R (Garrett cousin) would also bolt up

I'd sell you the PAC manifold+downpipe that I have (suits G40 frame Garrett, too big for what I want) but it might be a headache to get it to you

 

RHDjapan has the whole HKS kit for $4500 with the turbo currently, you may be able to get there turbo separate there for cheap.

G40 I think will be too big for what I want aswell, from what I've seen for the HP levels I want a g35-900 would be ideal from Garrett

 

the turbo still ends up being a touch over $4000 nzd once you include tax at the border (we get 15%). There's a local HKS agent here who actually sells it for a few bucks cheaper, but he has to bring it in on request (so it's NEVER on sale)

I'm keeping an eye out for a busted/blown chinese 3582 that I can buy just to see if it will fit

 

Kit is super complete and a bolt-on affair but sized for a stock port engine. No T04Z kit will make 450whp at 1 bar on a pump gas tune, the 4R will not either. Spool is fine for a street car IMO. Turbine flange is standard divided T4 with a small notch in the divider. The divider takes the most abuse and is relatively thin so they distort and push gaskets, the notch was HKS's solution.

 

Will my street port cause issues with this kit? Should I size up the turbo?

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...-graph-927841/

This person has a similar build but on the old T04z and made 464hp on 15lbs I was hoping for a similar chart but with more power a little earlier on and carried up to redline.

 

HKS published some data with the GT3-4R setup,

 

^^ The HKS published data have been pretty reliable in my experience, no different with this kit. The prototype version kit used a 1.00 a/r but production kits shipped with the 0.82a/r, I don't recall seeing actual power numbers with the prototype kit unfortunately. Would have been interesting to see.

Dotted line is stock port GT3-4R kit at 17psi, note the tq dips at the same points in the HKS graph. Solid lines are bridgeport GTW3884R/T04Z at 13-14psi. Red is power, blue is tq, yellow is boost.





Not directly related to the topic at hand, but here's a GT3-4R with the 1.0a/r on a pretty cool RB I built. 525whp @ 16psi for break-in, the setup was built to run 22-24psi on pump gas so it's barely breaking a sweat. Very little data on the turbo but seems to be a promising option in some applications.

https://i.imgur.com/H9PKZsw.jpeg

I'm not sure what "porting similar to a street port" means, but assuming a typical mild streetport and stock UIM you're still going to be running out of puff before 8000RPM. The .82a/r is probably a better match for a mild intake and stock exhaust port, 1.00 if you want to shift everything up a couple hundred RPM.

The graph in that thread is an outlier and not one I would want to base my expectations on. The majority of T04Z and equivalent sized turbo cars make 390-410whp at 1 bar, anything outside that range better have something pretty special going on. You need to prioritize your goals before deciding to increase turbo size, realistically what you're asking for isn't in the cards. 450whp at 1 bar with more bottom end than an HKS T04Z kit (superior manifold to GT3-4R kit) isn't going to happen, so decide if you'd rather give up bottom end, peak power, or run more boost and go from there.

 

Thank you for posting the chart! First one I've been able to see. Which is helpful cause it might not be the right turbo and kit for me then no matter how cheap I can get it.

So to achieve 450hp and my goals with this kit itd need to have 1.00 a/r to make it more happy up top and likely around 20psi?

Id be more than happy to give up bottom end, I wouldn't a turbo that runs out of puff around 7000rpm cause that's where I am currently with the twins. Also wouldn't want to run more than 15psi on track - been advised against it for reliability reasons.

 

I recently had the option of choosing the 1.0 or the .85 A/R housing for this turbo. I went with the .85 in the end because my engine is stock internally, but I'm pretty conscious of the guys on here advising towards big housings to help the thing breathe. I guess HKS knows what they're doing but to me it seems like they offer 'a little too small' or 'a little too big'

 

Out of curiosity - is there any rule of thumb when it comes to reliability with turbo kit manufacturers?
Turblown is top notch from what i have read, however it is super pricey AND i would have to pay additional tolls, customs and all importing that to germany. The HKS Kit from nengun and a seperately bought EFR 8374 with T04 flange costs around half of that.
I am not experienced with turbocharging as you may notice but is there a reason why i should pay the extra for the turblown kit versus the HKS kit paired with a seperately bought EFR series?

 

I have done that with a greddy manifold but it did not fit because the borg warner turbos are large framed. I ended up cutting a spacer between the block and the manifold. The spacer was 20mm. And then you need longer studs and 4 exhaust gaskets .
I also did the same with an hks t51r manifold for an efr 9280 (same frame size as the 8374) and it also did not fit. The spacers wouldnt work on that because of the angle

I dont know if i would call that manifold top notch but each to their own

 

both piping diameters of the greddy manifold will work with either an SXE or a regular air works compressor (300 series) compressor housing using a stock LIM on a RHD car without a spacer on the manifold..... in v mount configuration no less. i am affirming this because all 4 configurations were on my own car.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-gredd...-5mm-fd3s.html

the greddy manifold is very nice and very robust. the only modification it requires is the wastegate flange but that is to be expected. in your case, it would be advised to lean that route if not for the cost savings alone. the original small tube greddy i was using went through hell and a half with me until it simply could not be repaired anymore. it was bought VERY well used in ~2013, installed in ~2017 and abused and repaired multiple times until ~2022 (heavily heat wrapped mind you), saw both turbo options, then replaced with a brand new large tube greddy when it ultimately was just not repairable anymore.

its overall a great manifold and for sure lives up to the greddy name. its a good GREAT buy.

 

I'm literally tuning one of these that was brought to me. So far it's baseline on gate pressure (14 psi) is 333 horsepower / 250 ft lbs of torque - spooled by about 3700 in 3rd gear. I'm pretty swamped so I only get about a half hour a day on it until next week and since its a new build that was brought to me there are small things needing fixing. Pertinent specs are:

HKS kit
'Street port' rebuild - who knows what people consider a street port these days. I find mine are MUCH larger than most.
Turblown LIM, UIM, and 82mm DBW adapter.
4" HKS v-mount
3" downpipe and exhaust

Numbers are from my Dynapacks, I can post some graphs in the next week or so if people are curious what this (odd) kit does. The turbine housing is surpirisingly small externally.

 

That would be great curious to see how the graph looks!

 

For your goals I think you'd be better off with an Artec T4 manifold as Slides suggested, if you're set on a cast, single wastegate design. There is more support locally in Australia, you can use a Turbosmart wastegate (easier to fit/adjust being v-band), and something like a Borgwarner S362-SXE for a +400hp oem quality turbo without paying ball bearing G-Series/EFR $$. Not knocking the HKS manifold as they are a good solid unit, I just think you have better options in that price range.

 

So the Greddy kit or manifold will fit to a SXE or EFR turbo while the HKS would need some modification?
I am also highly confused because those two kits look very different to me; why does the HKS kit have this splitted front pipe?


HKS special set up kit



Greddy TD06 kit