hondah8er

i'm doing a 60-1 turbo upgrade on my 1st gen which has a S4 13bt. My question is will the hks cast iron manifold clear the frame rail on a a 1st gen or will mods be needed to make it fit. I find out myself but the stock turbo is still on my car.

If anyone who has experience with this knows I would appreciate the info on it.

Thanks

82streetracer

iTrader: (1)

I asked the same question a while back. Before I found the HKS was undivided and decided not to use it.

it fits fine but it is very close to the Idler arm and will fry the bushing really fast.

I think MikeP-28 had some pics

hondah8er

Maybe I will just heat wrap the manifold like crazy Thanks for the reply.

hondah8er

One more question. Will the HKS GT wastegate fit the HKS cast manifold for 87-88 13BT or only the standard 40mm gate?

SortedDub

It will fit just fine with a tangential turbine housing. An on-center housing turbo will hit the frame rail. I am running a T-66 on this manifold in my first gen. The GT wastegate has a v-band flange I believe but the manifold is set up for a standard HKS 40mm. I will be selling my setup soon (manifold and wastegate). PM me if you're interested.

hondah8er

So what wastegate are you running? Hks 40mm or the 50mm GT?

setzep

I think the cast manifold will allow the 40mm gate to bolt directly to it.

Mike never posted pic's of a hks manifold in a 1st gen, that was the cosmo twins he posted.

SortedDub

I'm running the 40mm. The manifold has a 4 bolt flange designed for this wastegate. I assume you could make an adapter if you wished to run a wastegate with a different flange.

hondah8er

Are you getting any boost creep with the 40 mm gate with your T66? What are the specs on the T66 and how must boost do you typically run?

SortedDub

Its a .96 Q-trim and yes boost does creep. It will hold 10psi then creep to 17psi by 6000rpm. Solved the problem by setting boost to 20psi

hondah8er

20 psi woah! That must be hell of a drive for a street driven 1st gen. I wonder if I will have creep. I have a T04E 60-1, .70 comp, and a 1.00 A/R exhaust side.

I want to be around 11-13 psi.

hondah8er

Also what boost controller are you using???

setzep

A boost controller can't prevent creep it can only make it worse if that's what you are trying to get at.

SortedDub

Profec B

hondah8er

How does it make creep worse?

Here is my scenario/setup so you know what I'm after:

85 GSL
S4 streetported 13bt
T04E 60-1, .70 comp, 1.00 exhaust
custom fmic
Hks cast manifold and Hks standard 40mm wastegate.
Microtech MTX8
dual bosch pumps
550x1600
custom surge tank
blitz bov

I'm aiming for around 340-380 rwhp at around 12-13 psi (+-) and as much as 15 psi MAX.

I've been told 40 mm for the wastegate is plenty by some and too little from others and that I should get something a bit bigger.

I've also heard if you don't have a good boost controller you will get creep. Then i've heard if you run lower boost you need a big wastegate to bleed off more exhaust gases.

I've also heard the hks 40mm is good to a little over 500 engine horsepower so I should be fine.

I know the 60-1 is a mid sized turbo so 40mm should be fine but i've heard so many different things from diff people its getting ****** frustrating. Who do I listen to? I want to get it right the first time.

BDC

I honestly have no idea. I would suspect it'll be a tighter fit but I also suspect that can shoe-horn itself in there. Be sure to put a turbine heat shield on it.

B

BDC

1) A boost controller can only add to the function of the existing pneumatics of the wastegating system. If the wastegate plumbing or any related components are deficient, then at some point the whole system will be deficient and cause boost creep. Since boost controllers are only used to intercept and manipulate the vacuum/pressure feeds going to the wastegate, it has zero effect at reducing or eliminating these already pre-existing problems with the plumbing, the wastegate itself, the spring, the diaphragm, etc. The function of an electronic boost controller is two-fold:

1) Increase overall peak boost
2) Increase turbo acceleration and therefore fatten up the torque and horsepower bands of the car

I like the setup and, although I don't agree with the EFI system, I think it's a much better choice than trying to piggy-back a stock system to death just to find that it won't work properly. It should make good power; definitely overkill on the fuel system.

One more thing I forgot to mention -> the wastegate (HKS 40mm) will work beautifully with that turbo setup and power output.

B

setzep

I think BDC summed it up nicely, a boost controller can only ADD boost not take away.

hondah8er

Thanks Brian What wastegate/manifold are you using?

What part of the fuel system do you think is overkill? the 1600's or the dual pumps? One will be a 500hp bosch (not the 044, 984 or 910 I think) and the other has no name on it but it supported 271 rwhp a few years ago.

I've tried to source some 1200cc secondaries but cannot find them anywhere. I am reluctant to get my 550's bored out to 1200's. I know 1200 secondaries will provide enough fuel for my needs.

Why dont you agree with the efi i chose? Your a haltech guy right? I got it for a good price...that's why. Nothing against haltech

BDC

I still run a 60-1 HIFI (Turbonetics) with a P-Trim 0.96 A/R undiv tang turbine housing, on an HKS cast undivided manifold (/puke), with the HKS 40mm wastegate. It's good for over 400rwhp although I tend not to prefer to make those kinda of comparisons. For you, it'll work. I think there's better options out there and better setups but they're more costly and take longer to get right.

On the "fuel system overkill", I mean that in a positive context. It's definitely a good thing to have enough pump and fuel volume backing up the injectors so I wouldn't change what you've got. The injectors, though, I could recommend something like four 720's or a pair of 720's and a pair of 1200's. This is *alot* of gas. You can do wonders with that.

On the EFI system stuff, I made the comment not in the interest of starting another fight between Microtech and Haltech but because my own personal experience has yielded that the E6K is a better choice. In any event, both will definitely do a better job than what the stock EFI can do so it's nonetheless a better choice.

B