gt40r motor installed (everything but the turbo)
06-27-04, 08:06 AM
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gt40r motor installed (everything but the turbo)
I finally got my motor in this week in preperation for my new gt40r turbo. I have done a lot of stuff to get ready for this turbo and figured I would share it. I am in the process of getting pictures of everything for those of us who are visually stimulated but will list all my tweaks that have been done. I have accumilated and reasearched many of the mods that are now on my car. If anyone is interested in the specifics of a certain mod then please pm me for detailed pics and explanations. Most of this stuff can be found here but I figured I would just put it in one place.
And now our feature presentation,
1) motor mounts- 3" round black 80 shore poly from Mcmaster Carr cut to length and used to replace stock rubber ones. Poly shim underneath to help vibrations. No need for a torque brace with this setup. Will save your fender and LIM from the torque brace abuse and cost less if you do it yourself.
2) oil cooler upgrade- after researching all the kits and upgrades out there, I decided to go at this alone from a new stand point. I purchased a new Mocal 19 row oil cooler from the importer who is right here in my backyard. I can get these for anyone who is interested. I plumbed it in series with the original oil cooler and made new lines with the factory disconnects. Everything cost me less than $250. and with the flick of the wrist, can be bypassed if need be by flipping the disconnect back to the other oil cooler in case of a line failure.
3)wiring harness upgrade- I cut out all the uneeded connectors as I do not need them for the power FC to work propperly. Make sure you reconnect the two grounds that are in there. Wrapped it all with high temp silicone tape from Home Depot (stretch and seal) and covered the main harness in DEI heat sheating. cleaned all the connetors and grounds.
3)relocated battery to driverside bin. Connected cable at starter and left a bolt with a red rubber cover over it where the original +terminal was for a jumper post if I need to jump the car. This makes it convienient and clean looking.
4)leading coil wire upgrade- I pulled the leading coil trigger directly from the ignitor on the driverside underneath the cruise control box, and ran it with shielded wire to my Crane HI 6.
5)207deg F miata thermo switch installed. This is needed wether you have the power fc or not. I stand by this statement and will be happy to explain to anyone who thinks otherwise.
6) stock water temp sending unit moved to thermostat housing and autometer one installed in original location.
7)injectors upgraded to 775/1200's stock fpr. no fpr solenoid. upgraded nipendenso fuel pump
8) throttle body coolant bypass done a different way with a bleed valve to help burp the system. AST removed and running Evans coolant at 0 psi.
9) 3 bar gm map sensor going in with apexi avcr boost solenoid connected to power fc to control the yet to arrive tial wastegate.
10) tech edge wide band and data logit with bung near midpipe for more accurate readings.
11) street ported motor with dimpling in the port runner to help atomization. 2mm 2piece rotaryaviation apex seals and teflon encapsualeted coolant seals (both motors went from coolant seal failure)
12) port matched and polished upper and lower intakes. The lower intake has been thermocoated with cermakrome to help insulate it from the turbine on one side and the block on the other. The UIM has been polished on top and a heat barrier from DEI has been installed underneath to help with heat soak from the heat rising off the block. The IAT sensor has also been moved to the elbow right after the intercooler. and the double throttle has been removed. (I have pics)
13) ngk br10eix plugs to be installed after breakin and tunning. Magnecore 10mm wires.
14) greddy old school FMIC. Thermocoated IC piping. greddy type r BOV. greddy water pump pulley and altenator pulley. stock main pulley
15)PWR raiator
16) solenoid rack modified to hold coils but without water line attached or any of the solenoids.
Other items I am still considering but need some input on.
1) tranny brace (do not think I need it with the poly engine mounts but may be wrong?)
2) diff brace ( should I use the Jim Lab bushings I have coiming or the brace or both?)
My goal is 450 rwhp at no more than 15 psi. This will be on pump gas here in FL which is 93 octane. Obviously more can be had by turning up the boost, but I want to use that as a baseline for comparison. May consider water injection, but I have to wait and see what my duty cycles will be like it 15psi. No need for more boost if I do not have enough fuel. May still use water above 10 psi for a safety mat.
If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions, now is the time. Who knows when my turbo will get here.
Mike
And now our feature presentation,
1) motor mounts- 3" round black 80 shore poly from Mcmaster Carr cut to length and used to replace stock rubber ones. Poly shim underneath to help vibrations. No need for a torque brace with this setup. Will save your fender and LIM from the torque brace abuse and cost less if you do it yourself.
2) oil cooler upgrade- after researching all the kits and upgrades out there, I decided to go at this alone from a new stand point. I purchased a new Mocal 19 row oil cooler from the importer who is right here in my backyard. I can get these for anyone who is interested. I plumbed it in series with the original oil cooler and made new lines with the factory disconnects. Everything cost me less than $250. and with the flick of the wrist, can be bypassed if need be by flipping the disconnect back to the other oil cooler in case of a line failure.
3)wiring harness upgrade- I cut out all the uneeded connectors as I do not need them for the power FC to work propperly. Make sure you reconnect the two grounds that are in there. Wrapped it all with high temp silicone tape from Home Depot (stretch and seal) and covered the main harness in DEI heat sheating. cleaned all the connetors and grounds.
3)relocated battery to driverside bin. Connected cable at starter and left a bolt with a red rubber cover over it where the original +terminal was for a jumper post if I need to jump the car. This makes it convienient and clean looking.
4)leading coil wire upgrade- I pulled the leading coil trigger directly from the ignitor on the driverside underneath the cruise control box, and ran it with shielded wire to my Crane HI 6.
5)207deg F miata thermo switch installed. This is needed wether you have the power fc or not. I stand by this statement and will be happy to explain to anyone who thinks otherwise.
6) stock water temp sending unit moved to thermostat housing and autometer one installed in original location.
7)injectors upgraded to 775/1200's stock fpr. no fpr solenoid. upgraded nipendenso fuel pump
8) throttle body coolant bypass done a different way with a bleed valve to help burp the system. AST removed and running Evans coolant at 0 psi.
9) 3 bar gm map sensor going in with apexi avcr boost solenoid connected to power fc to control the yet to arrive tial wastegate.
10) tech edge wide band and data logit with bung near midpipe for more accurate readings.
11) street ported motor with dimpling in the port runner to help atomization. 2mm 2piece rotaryaviation apex seals and teflon encapsualeted coolant seals (both motors went from coolant seal failure)
12) port matched and polished upper and lower intakes. The lower intake has been thermocoated with cermakrome to help insulate it from the turbine on one side and the block on the other. The UIM has been polished on top and a heat barrier from DEI has been installed underneath to help with heat soak from the heat rising off the block. The IAT sensor has also been moved to the elbow right after the intercooler. and the double throttle has been removed. (I have pics)
13) ngk br10eix plugs to be installed after breakin and tunning. Magnecore 10mm wires.
14) greddy old school FMIC. Thermocoated IC piping. greddy type r BOV. greddy water pump pulley and altenator pulley. stock main pulley
15)PWR raiator
16) solenoid rack modified to hold coils but without water line attached or any of the solenoids.
Other items I am still considering but need some input on.
1) tranny brace (do not think I need it with the poly engine mounts but may be wrong?)
2) diff brace ( should I use the Jim Lab bushings I have coiming or the brace or both?)
My goal is 450 rwhp at no more than 15 psi. This will be on pump gas here in FL which is 93 octane. Obviously more can be had by turning up the boost, but I want to use that as a baseline for comparison. May consider water injection, but I have to wait and see what my duty cycles will be like it 15psi. No need for more boost if I do not have enough fuel. May still use water above 10 psi for a safety mat.
If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions, now is the time. Who knows when my turbo will get here.
Mike
06-27-04, 10:10 AM
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sounds like a lotta work man 
but it'll definitely pay off. As far as a tranny brace... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=319689
-Zach
but it'll definitely pay off. As far as a tranny brace... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=319689-Zach
06-27-04, 09:24 PM
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Originally posted by Michael Filippello
no turbo yet, i'm on the waiting list. I am going to upload some pics tomorrow.
Mike
no turbo yet, i'm on the waiting list. I am going to upload some pics tomorrow.
Mike
well i am looking into a single on my car also... i see that you live in tampa... just wondering if i could offer a hand or come over to check her out... just trying to learn what i can before i jump in head first...
-Keith
06-28-04, 11:59 AM
#7
Originally posted by teamstealth
sounds like a lotta work man but it'll definitely pay off. As far as a tranny brace... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=319689
-Zach
sounds like a lotta work man
but it'll definitely pay off. As far as a tranny brace... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=319689-Zach
.
Last edited by Zero R; 06-28-04 at 12:01 PM.
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06-28-04, 07:37 PM
#8
Originally posted by HedgeHog
Did u have to dent the passenger fender well to clear the turbo? Mine's uber tight there.
Did u have to dent the passenger fender well to clear the turbo? Mine's uber tight there.
-Sean
06-28-04, 09:59 PM
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Sean, I need to call your shop. I keep forgetting during work hours as we are so busy. Can you get my block off plates and Misc. stuff out to me. I can use these items to keep buttoning her up.
Mike Filippello
813-868-110
Mike Filippello
813-868-110
07-05-04, 08:46 PM
#11
Re: gt40r motor installed (everything but the turbo)
Originally posted by Michael Filippello
2) oil cooler upgrade- after researching all the kits and upgrades out there, I decided to go at this alone from a new stand point. I purchased a new Mocal 19 row oil cooler from the importer who is right here in my backyard. I can get these for anyone who is interested. I plumbed it in series with the original oil cooler and made new lines with the factory disconnects. Everything cost me less than $250. and with the flick of the wrist, can be bypassed if need be by flipping the disconnect back to the other oil cooler in case of a line failure.
\
Mike
2) oil cooler upgrade- after researching all the kits and upgrades out there, I decided to go at this alone from a new stand point. I purchased a new Mocal 19 row oil cooler from the importer who is right here in my backyard. I can get these for anyone who is interested. I plumbed it in series with the original oil cooler and made new lines with the factory disconnects. Everything cost me less than $250. and with the flick of the wrist, can be bypassed if need be by flipping the disconnect back to the other oil cooler in case of a line failure.
\
Mike
07-06-04, 08:16 AM
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Hey me too... as far as the motor waiting for the turbo... but I am waiting for other parts as well such as the Greddy 3 row, which is never going to come in....
07-06-04, 08:19 AM
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Michael you didn't dream up that good feeling thread you responded to cause I remember reading your reply too it. But it seems to mysteriously have dissappeared...
VERY WIERD....
VERY WIERD....
09-05-04, 11:55 AM
#15
well, I finally got my turbo installed and should have it up and running in the next couple of days. The turbo is awesome and the size just says watch out. Every body from the 300z shop next door keeps coming over to see it. They do a lot of 240sx swaps and use gt25r's and some gt35r's. This thing gets all the attention.
My kit went in perfect. I did not have to dent anything. This could be because I just installed new poly motormounts. The new mounts position the motor a little higher than the sagging old rubber mounts. I highly recommend installing new mounts when doing this kit. the poly mounts also do away with the need for a torque brace. The downpipe and wastegate went together perfectly. I did reposition the wastegate top as it arrived with the two nipples pointed at the tranny. This seemed to be wrong so I turned it 1/4 turn. Now it points toward the body but seems to have more clearance than the other way.
My wastegate was a turbosmart 48mm and came with springs for 7, 10, and some other rates. I can combine for 4 different rates which is really nice. The vbands are also a great setup. The downpipe has no bungs welded in so this will be extra. Sean should consider putting one near the top with an extra one near the MP which would come plugged. This would be a great addition and save people the hassle of having to take it some where. Many people now have wide bands so the extra bung with a plug preinstalled would be the shizit.
The oil feed line is nice. I am planning on redoing the drain with braided line down the road. The water lines will get changed over to braided as well. Mostly to avoid kinking due to some of the tight bends.
The manifold is superb. It is really well constructed and beefy. Should hold up forever. The welding is top notch.
The kit comes with a heater hose to use instead of the hard pipe which interferes with the turbo. I found that by flipping this pipe upside down, that it will still fit and clear the turbo. It also still lines up with some bolt holes for a secure fit. Then you just need to run a hose from the outlet to the motor. I plan on mounting a small electric pump on the frame below the compressor housing to circulate coolant after shut down. So this will get plumbed in line here.
The only fitment problem is the top of the compressor outlet. This interferes with my strut brace. I got a turbonetics silicone 90 that does the trick. Later this will be replaced with a tight aluminum 90 that will be welded onto the compressor cover. I have heard that the silicone 90's dont hold up to well to the heat.
I should have her fired up by wed. I will post back with dyno #'s once the motor is broken in. I would like to say that A-spec and sean/nico have been great and are part of what you get when you buy this kit. It is nice to know you have continued support after purchase.
Mike
My kit went in perfect. I did not have to dent anything. This could be because I just installed new poly motormounts. The new mounts position the motor a little higher than the sagging old rubber mounts. I highly recommend installing new mounts when doing this kit. the poly mounts also do away with the need for a torque brace. The downpipe and wastegate went together perfectly. I did reposition the wastegate top as it arrived with the two nipples pointed at the tranny. This seemed to be wrong so I turned it 1/4 turn. Now it points toward the body but seems to have more clearance than the other way.
My wastegate was a turbosmart 48mm and came with springs for 7, 10, and some other rates. I can combine for 4 different rates which is really nice. The vbands are also a great setup. The downpipe has no bungs welded in so this will be extra. Sean should consider putting one near the top with an extra one near the MP which would come plugged. This would be a great addition and save people the hassle of having to take it some where. Many people now have wide bands so the extra bung with a plug preinstalled would be the shizit.
The oil feed line is nice. I am planning on redoing the drain with braided line down the road. The water lines will get changed over to braided as well. Mostly to avoid kinking due to some of the tight bends.
The manifold is superb. It is really well constructed and beefy. Should hold up forever. The welding is top notch.
The kit comes with a heater hose to use instead of the hard pipe which interferes with the turbo. I found that by flipping this pipe upside down, that it will still fit and clear the turbo. It also still lines up with some bolt holes for a secure fit. Then you just need to run a hose from the outlet to the motor. I plan on mounting a small electric pump on the frame below the compressor housing to circulate coolant after shut down. So this will get plumbed in line here.
The only fitment problem is the top of the compressor outlet. This interferes with my strut brace. I got a turbonetics silicone 90 that does the trick. Later this will be replaced with a tight aluminum 90 that will be welded onto the compressor cover. I have heard that the silicone 90's dont hold up to well to the heat.
I should have her fired up by wed. I will post back with dyno #'s once the motor is broken in. I would like to say that A-spec and sean/nico have been great and are part of what you get when you buy this kit. It is nice to know you have continued support after purchase.
Mike
09-05-04, 12:36 PM
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Michael,
glad you like the kit and everything fit fine..... confirm with an email to Nico info@a-spectuning.com that you need a filter and ill have him get one out to you Tuesday.. (free of charge)
glad you like the kit and everything fit fine..... confirm with an email to Nico info@a-spectuning.com that you need a filter and ill have him get one out to you Tuesday.. (free of charge)
Originally Posted by MFilippello
also, for those of you who have the kit already installed, I would like to know what you did for your air filter setup. I haven't approached this yet so I am open for ideas.
Mike
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