gas in engine oil pan!!! 93 fd w/ lots more problem!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: san diego
gas in engine oil pan!!! 93 fd w/ lots more problem!
alright, first i have a 93 fd and having the crappiest time of its life! here are the mods and problems as listed:
1. i got 1993 fd3s and equip with a hks to4 single turbo/intercooler upgrade and is controlled by a microtech standalone. i'm having gas going into my oil pan and it comes back within a few days after the oil change. i can feel the oil is dilottted from the gas and has a really strong oder of gas.
2. the car is pretty hard to start even hot or cold. takes me about 4-5 secs. to get the car started and some times takes a few try to get it going.
3. the car bogs/lags and somewhat miss-fire. it is very noticeable and can hear it when i start accellerate. the car bogs, lags and missfire only while in low rpms..say from start 1k rpm to 3k rpm. anything after that 3k rpm and up in full boost, it pulls like a raped ape! full boost is about 10psi.
here are a few guesses of mine and hope friendly members on here can shim in or can give me some advice on where to start. i forgot to mention is that all these mods were done by last owner and he also took out most of the og wiring harness so none of the gauges work.
1. my first take would be the fpr or maybe a leaky injector??? or i've heard some members mentioned about the sleeve ports being sticky???
2.car can have some vacuum lines ran incorrectly (due to the single turbo setup all vacuum line are a mess and i don't know what goes to what and being a noob to rotary does not help!
3. i'm not sure if the microtech standealone has been properly tuned from the last owner or not, but would like to have it tuned in the near future after the fuel system gets resolved.
4.i really don't know exactly where to start. if anyone here has ran in to this problem in the past please shim in and shine some light for me! this is going to be track and weekend car and is undergoing a major restoration, but first i would like to get the car running properly before any work can be done to the frame and body.
please help me out and much help would be appreciated, please mods if i posted this thread in the wrong place than please move it to the correct sections. thanks everyone for taking the time to read my long as post.
1. i got 1993 fd3s and equip with a hks to4 single turbo/intercooler upgrade and is controlled by a microtech standalone. i'm having gas going into my oil pan and it comes back within a few days after the oil change. i can feel the oil is dilottted from the gas and has a really strong oder of gas.
2. the car is pretty hard to start even hot or cold. takes me about 4-5 secs. to get the car started and some times takes a few try to get it going.
3. the car bogs/lags and somewhat miss-fire. it is very noticeable and can hear it when i start accellerate. the car bogs, lags and missfire only while in low rpms..say from start 1k rpm to 3k rpm. anything after that 3k rpm and up in full boost, it pulls like a raped ape! full boost is about 10psi.
here are a few guesses of mine and hope friendly members on here can shim in or can give me some advice on where to start. i forgot to mention is that all these mods were done by last owner and he also took out most of the og wiring harness so none of the gauges work.
1. my first take would be the fpr or maybe a leaky injector??? or i've heard some members mentioned about the sleeve ports being sticky???
2.car can have some vacuum lines ran incorrectly (due to the single turbo setup all vacuum line are a mess and i don't know what goes to what and being a noob to rotary does not help!
3. i'm not sure if the microtech standealone has been properly tuned from the last owner or not, but would like to have it tuned in the near future after the fuel system gets resolved.
4.i really don't know exactly where to start. if anyone here has ran in to this problem in the past please shim in and shine some light for me! this is going to be track and weekend car and is undergoing a major restoration, but first i would like to get the car running properly before any work can be done to the frame and body.
please help me out and much help would be appreciated, please mods if i posted this thread in the wrong place than please move it to the correct sections. thanks everyone for taking the time to read my long as post.
Last edited by evofd3s; Dec 25, 2008 at 12:42 AM.
There's a couple ways to go about this one. Obviously fuel is making its way into the crankcase. IMO there are two main ways this is happening.
The first being the car's running REALLY rich. To remedy this problem you simply need to find a competent tuner for your Microtech.
The second problem is that your motor is down in compression. To be safe you need to check this a certain way. First hook up a battery charger to make sure you have enough juice for the next steps. You'll have to make sure there's no fuel in your rotor housings because it will decrease compression. So pull the egi and fuel pump relays and all the plugs. Cycle the engine for 30-40 seconds (note all the vapor you'll see misting out of the engine bay).
Now there will still be a light amount of fuel in the engine you'll never get it all out from just cycling it over. Disconnect the charger before doing the compression check as it will read an increase in the compression results. Mazda states for 250rpms during the compression check. So after doing the compression check if your numbers come out in the high 90's or low 100's I would honestly pull all the plugs cycle it again for 30-40 seconds and let it sit like that over night so the fuel can evaporate. To keep you on the bright side I have had piston engines and rotaries that have "lost" 20 psi due to being FLOODED. Hopefully you just need a really good tune.
The next day again do a 30-40 second cycling to remove any more vapor. These numbers WILL be your results so have someone to hold you if they come back low. If your numbers come back in the high 90's or 100 mark it's likely that your motor is on its way out and will need a rebuild. Good luck and here's a link to help you go about doing a compression check... http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html
-Lance Mayhon
The first being the car's running REALLY rich. To remedy this problem you simply need to find a competent tuner for your Microtech.
The second problem is that your motor is down in compression. To be safe you need to check this a certain way. First hook up a battery charger to make sure you have enough juice for the next steps. You'll have to make sure there's no fuel in your rotor housings because it will decrease compression. So pull the egi and fuel pump relays and all the plugs. Cycle the engine for 30-40 seconds (note all the vapor you'll see misting out of the engine bay).
Now there will still be a light amount of fuel in the engine you'll never get it all out from just cycling it over. Disconnect the charger before doing the compression check as it will read an increase in the compression results. Mazda states for 250rpms during the compression check. So after doing the compression check if your numbers come out in the high 90's or low 100's I would honestly pull all the plugs cycle it again for 30-40 seconds and let it sit like that over night so the fuel can evaporate. To keep you on the bright side I have had piston engines and rotaries that have "lost" 20 psi due to being FLOODED. Hopefully you just need a really good tune.
The next day again do a 30-40 second cycling to remove any more vapor. These numbers WILL be your results so have someone to hold you if they come back low. If your numbers come back in the high 90's or 100 mark it's likely that your motor is on its way out and will need a rebuild. Good luck and here's a link to help you go about doing a compression check... http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html
-Lance Mayhon
Last edited by mono4lamar; Dec 25, 2008 at 12:04 PM.
There's a couple ways to go about this one. Obviously fuel is making its way into the crankcase. IMO there are two main ways this is happening.
The first being the car's running REALLY rich. To remedy this problem you simply need to find a competent tuner for your Microtech.
The second problem is that your motor is down in compression. To be safe you need to check this a certain way. First hook up a battery charger to make sure you have enough juice for the next steps. You'll have to make sure there's no fuel in your rotor housings because it will decrease compression. So pull the egi and fuel pump relays and all the plugs. Cycle the engine for 30-40 seconds (note all the vapor you'll see misting out of the engine bay).
Now there will still be a light amount of fuel in the engine you'll never get it all out from just cycling it over. Disconnect the charger before doing the compression check as it will read an increase in the compression results. Mazda states for 250rpms during the compression check. So after doing the compression check if your numbers come out in the high 90's or low 100's I would honestly pull all the plugs cycle it again for 30-40 seconds and let it sit like that over night so the fuel can evaporate. To keep you on the bright side I have had piston engines and rotaries that have "lost" 20 psi due to being FLOODED. Hopefully you just need a really good tune.
The next day again do a 30-40 second cycling to remove any more vapor. These numbers WILL be your results so have someone to hold you if they come back low. If your numbers come back in the high 90's or 100 mark it's likely that your motor is on its way out and will need a rebuild. Good luck and here's a link to help you go about doing a compression check... http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html
-Lance Mayhon
The first being the car's running REALLY rich. To remedy this problem you simply need to find a competent tuner for your Microtech.
The second problem is that your motor is down in compression. To be safe you need to check this a certain way. First hook up a battery charger to make sure you have enough juice for the next steps. You'll have to make sure there's no fuel in your rotor housings because it will decrease compression. So pull the egi and fuel pump relays and all the plugs. Cycle the engine for 30-40 seconds (note all the vapor you'll see misting out of the engine bay).
Now there will still be a light amount of fuel in the engine you'll never get it all out from just cycling it over. Disconnect the charger before doing the compression check as it will read an increase in the compression results. Mazda states for 250rpms during the compression check. So after doing the compression check if your numbers come out in the high 90's or low 100's I would honestly pull all the plugs cycle it again for 30-40 seconds and let it sit like that over night so the fuel can evaporate. To keep you on the bright side I have had piston engines and rotaries that have "lost" 20 psi due to being FLOODED. Hopefully you just need a really good tune.
The next day again do a 30-40 second cycling to remove any more vapor. These numbers WILL be your results so have someone to hold you if they come back low. If your numbers come back in the high 90's or 100 mark it's likely that your motor is on its way out and will need a rebuild. Good luck and here's a link to help you go about doing a compression check... http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html
-Lance Mayhon
If it's BELOW the mid 90's, you're looking at a rebuild in the future.
Well talking in the sense that it might be heavily flooded I wouldn't pay attention to numbers till its cleaned. Personally anything near 100 I would open it up and get my hands dirty before something blows and you ruin many good parts. I prefer 105 +
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: san diego
thank you very much for the info, i'm planning to do a compression test right after christmas and will let you guys know whats the reading. merry christmas to you and your family! thanks
It is common for rotaries to experience some gas dilution in the oil, not preferred but it is pretty common. What do you know about the history of the engine? Was the car tuned? Does it smoke at idle? Does it smoke when under boost? What color is the smoke?
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: san diego
theres a faint smoke coming from the tailpipe at idle and it is some what consider gray, same when it is on boost but a lot more and really noticeable from my rearview mirrior. i'll be taking everything apart today and tomorrow and double check everything....as for tune i'm pretty sure he said its never been tuned, but i could be wrong. i'm also having a friend come over and maybe extract data from the microtech and see how everything is set and maybe do a few adjustments himself. hes no tuner but being a software engineering he said its simply easy as he have been doing some reading and research for me lol! very good friend isn't he!?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: san diego
sorry but pvc system is out of the story, that bastard who last owned the car pretty much took everything out even the og engine harness. its running on the microtech standalone harness only! so my whole cluster does not work as well. all vaccum line are all hooked up but not sure if its correct!? these are such headaches but than again i still love the car...more homework and researchto do.
Are both nipples on the oil filler neck capped off? I bet the previous owner did that when deleting the pcv, that is likely your problem as it is a exact description of what happens when both of those nipples are capped off. 
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
smikels
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
Aug 18, 2015 01:26 PM
