Those graphs look like they are from a Dynojet. If so ask the operator for the DRF files, then you can download Winpep and play around with the graphs. Besides myself, I think others may be interested in seeing the files too.

 

"ask the operator for the DRF files, then you can download Winpep and play around with the graphs."

100%

 

Sent the request for the DRF files. Will update soon

 

Dyno shop sent me the below - the 522rwhp was for 31psi where I lost power. Dyno gurus seem to think I need to use a Mainline Hub Dyno because the roller dyno is unable to get an accurate reading because the tyres are slipping and its unable to produce an accurate power figure above 30psi. When boost was dropped to 29-30psi the power settles at 535ish rwhp and around the 480wtq.

The massive difference since I was last on this dyno is picking up +110wtq and modest +35rwhp.

Uncorrected numbers - these are no doubt wrong but makes quite the difference.


I will try to continue testing on draggy 100-200 as I dont have a mainline pro hub dyno near me so hopefully get a better idea if 31-32psi in the real world nets gains. At the moment the setup is traction limited because the cup 2s cannot hook and slip immediately under boost. I think the surface temps are far too cold 0-1*C for a semi slick to work well. I may need a really soft compound or winter tyres to see if my 100-200 improves.

 

Sharing another UK result on Pump Fuel and WMI.

This is Mark’s semi - pp 13B making 732 whp and 505 wtq on ESMotors’ mainline prohub dyno. Anyone familiar will knows ESMotors builds some of the fastest street Porsches.






Setup details:

• 13B semi-pp
  
• Holset HX50 76/75 turbo 1.28ar - Peak boost of 26 psi, tapering to 23–24 psi at the top end due to WG control issues
  
• Pump fuel with water–methanol injection
  

Update - Spoke to Mark and he confirmed the issue was not the WG but the coolant temps dropping to 45*C at high rpm and the ECU adding 15% more fuel. He suspects a sensor issue or possible thermostat.
Mark will test 100-200 next year when the weather improves, watch this space.



991/992 Porsche turbos on this dyno making 700-750whp run in the 4.7 to 4.5 depending on condition's.

Mark seems poised for a mid to low 4s range on pump fuel considering he can run the 100-200 in one gear. He has the weight advantage but the Porsches swing back with more torque, a slick pdk and immense traction. Can a 30yr old FD challenge on pump fuel?! only one way to find out.

 

Got the video but didnt have the time to upload it....Garage Whifbitz have posted so enjoy the run that made the numbers.
g asap.
I’ve been spending some time looking over the logs from my 5.58s 100–200km/h PB, and it’s been a real eye-opener. While the number is solid, the data shows the boost delivery was actually a bit "lazy." In fairness, I was doing everything I could to protect 3rd gear on the OEM box while also being unsure where the real limit of the G35-1050 sat on my street port.

On that 5.58s run, I had 10psi at 4500rpm, 20psi at 5000rpm, and a peak of 27.5psi by 6300rpm. By the time I hit the 8200rpm redline, it had already tapered down to 26psi. The car was essentially waiting for the turbo to wake up at the start and losing steam at the finish line. It was a safe, conservative curve, but it wasn't maximizing the potential of the G-Series aero. As you can see below I was making 22.5psi on my PB run by 5300rpm.



The plan now is to move from that "lazy mountain" profile to a "tabletop" profile. I’m going to be a lot more aggressive with the boost ramp at the start and just pray that 3rd gear decides to stay in the chat rather than exiting through the casing. To help with the extra mid-range violence, I’m finally retiring my 2017-spec 265 Cup 2s. They hooked surprisingly hard for their age in the summer heat, but I’ve got a much fresher set of 2021-spec 295/30/18 Cup 2s going on for next year to make sure all that extra torque actually hits the tarmac. I will eventually get a fresh set of dot 26 spec rubber incase I struggle with the dot 21 spec cup 2s.

Instead of hitting 27psi at 6300rpm on my previous PB run, I’m able to hit 29-30psi by 5300rpm nearly 1,000rpm earlier. I’ll then hold that 30psi dead-flat all the way to 8000rpm. To keep things sensible and give the engine a break, I’ll aggressively bleed boost above 8k by killing the duty cycle to drop it back down to the 20-24psi range.



I’ve gained a lot of faith in this G35 lately and I hope that is not misplaced as I'm no expert in reading turbo maps but It got me into the mid-5s so easily that I realized I was only tickling its efficiency range. This turbo (imo) likes high pressure ratios, and holding 30psi flat should put the compressor right in its happy place, well I HOPE and Fingers Crossed!

I’m keeping my expectations grounded, but realistically if 3rd gear survives the trauma and it holds 30psi to the redline, I’m hoping to dip right into the low 5-second bracket because I have more area under the curve now! That would be an insane result for a turbo this size on a street port and pump fuel. However, If I do this and see zero gains from my previous run, then we’ll know the G35 is officially maxed out and there’s no point in chasing 32psi just to turn the turbo into an expensive heat pump.

This will likely be my final update for the year. I’m looking forward to testing in the real world soon but for now taking a step back to enjoy the holidays. I wish you all a festive and well-deserved break, and I’ll catch up with everyone after a bit of rest in the New Year.

Drive safe and enjoy the break!

 

I am really curious seeing these crazy boost numbers!

a) You are obviously running studs in the engine?
b) For how long do you keep these numbers going? Like 27-30psi? It it like for a pull and then let the car roll?

You have intrigued me to. take my car out on the road and see what it does in terms of numbers.
I feel the car sleeping now at 1.0 and 1.2 bar and i remember the S362SXE being way more alive when i was doing 1.4 - 1.6 in the past.
The car felt like a different beast, like the turbo was way more in its happy place like you mentioned above.

But when i am thinking of track use like i do, i cannot believe that doing 27 - 30 psi is possible!

 

we have a few World time attack cars running 30-35psi for 15-20 minutes per session.

Tuning is everything when it comes to rotary reliability

 

That's nice to hear, sounds promising and i would really like to know a bit more.

Are there any topics/builds that i could have a look at to understand what kind of mods have been done to the engine to support this kind of boost levels?
Also wouldn't mind having a look at their cooling setups!

Thanks.
KZ.

 

a) Yes — the engine is studded and balanced.
b) I run high boost for the entire pull and whenever the car is on its high-boost map. I have well over 150 runs at 24+ psi without issues. Like Omar says its all about tuning!

Definitely take your car out and do a 100–200 km/h on Dragy as it’s a much better real-world metric than dyno numbers, especially since your FD is lighter. For reference, a 992 GT3 / GT3 RS does around 7.0–7.5 seconds, which is very respectable considering how track-focused those cars are.

Rob Dahm ran Pikes Peak at over 1000+ hp on his 3-rotor (roughly ~333 hp per rotor), so on a 2-rotor that’s equivalent to ~660 hp. His engine survived the entire run but the turbo failed because it was being oversped. That really shows that high boost itself isn’t the killer but tuning, heat control, and turbo efficiency matter far more.

These days (2025/26), 600–800 hp 13B builds are becoming much more reliable thanks to E85 fuel and better turbo/cooling technology. We are really only limited by budget at this point.

When Garrett releases their electric turbos for the aftermarket things are going to get very interesting. For now, I’d choose a G35-990 as a track turbo over the S362SXE.

 

Every build is different, but if this setup works on a 1000 hp 3-rotor, then a similar cooling approach should also work on a 13B. The real question is whether you have the right turbo to efficiently make and sustain 30–35 psi of boost?! and the right tuner behind the laptop?!

 

Thanks for sharing the info and the videos!

All of Rob's videos, doings and adventures are very nice to watch and spend time gazing and thinking what if!
Realistically, a cooling system like his is in my car is... unrealistic!
For many different reasons.

While browsing his channel, in one of his videos with the FC chasing the 700hp mark he is talking about ignition timing and how much it differs based on application. (road pulls, dyno, endurace)

Like we have discussed already, i am not expecting my car to be working at the same boost levels that yours is due to the kind of use.
And even if it does i am also not expecting it to be making the same amounts of power again due to safer tuning.

Doing a couple of 100-200 pulls is not the same as going around pretty much flat out for 20km to then arrive at a 3KM straight and go WOT for approx 30'' to arrive at the end of a lap and then proceed to do the same for multiple times! (that is one lap around the Nordschleife).
And i do not say it to belittle the road pulls, it is just a different application altogether which needs different treatment. That is all.

My engine is not studded so i can answer your question already that the weak link is not the turbo.
And also with the current cooling setup when i used to run 1.6bar at some point i do remember that the temperatures were starting to go slightly and slowly up with the SXE.

So maybe the answer is three fold!
Stud the engine, upgrade the cooling and change the turbo!

PS: Sorry for highjacking your thread and thanks again for the info!

 

No worries at all and it will be amazing to see you go sub-7 whichever way you choose to do it.

I fully agree that 100–200 pulls and sustained Nürburgring running are completely different applications with very different requirements.

From what you’ve described, I think you’re very close already so keep it going and keep us updated on your sub 7 journey!

A time attack car I take a lot of inspiration from is Aoki’s FD, where the overall build matters more than raw power. He managed a 52-second lap at Tsukuba with only about 400 hp, which is an insane result. It really shows that in an FD, lap times are not power-dependent but about the whole package. I wish he could attack the Nurburgring or do World TIme Attack to see where his build would stack up.
https://thenaritadogfight.com/2024/0...oki-spotlight/

With that said, this thread is about reliable, repeatable street power. Looking at your 100–200 GPS time from your PB Ring lap, you were in the ~8.1–8.5 s range, which is roughly 400 hp in the real world and that’s with a passenger so it makes your Ring time even more impressive. If you drop even 1 second from that acceleration and remove the extra weight, you’ll be very close to sub-7 in my opinion, without needing major changes to your current setup. For reference the 992 GT3 RS consistently did around 6.9-7.1s on its ring attack lap so you are not a million miles off in terms of matching its acceleration.

However, your data confirms that 400ish HP real world acceleration seems to the reliability window for 13b survival at the ring!