Can somone tell me what 13b i have
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12-28-07, 02:43 PM
#9
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ebay link
this is the link from ebay where I bought the car.There is pics of the engine but there not to great. the car is a gsl the 13b was a swap.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...179770276&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...179770276&rd=1
12-29-07, 02:17 AM
#11
No distributor? No thanks
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That's easy. It's a green kind.
Seriously, get some close-up pictures. If you can get a good shot of the back of the intermediate housing, just behind the oil filler, that's where you can sometimes find casting info. If you have a raised and machined section below the oil filler and just above the pan, then it's 84-up. If you have injector bosses cast into the center plate, it's 84-up. If you have a smooth top on the intermediate housing, it's 84-88, but if it has an EGR passage coming out the top, it's 89-91. The oil pan can tell us if it's 84-85 or 86-88. If there's no raised section under the oil filler for side-mount engine mounts, then it's either 74-78 or (more likely) just a bastard block with 12A irons and GSL-SE or old-school housings.
FWIW, irons and housings from pre-85 and 86-up aren't interchangable at all because the internal seals moved. It means that some parts can't be mixed and matched, although those internal seals aren't visible to us. It does narrow down the detective work, though.
Seriously, get some close-up pictures. If you can get a good shot of the back of the intermediate housing, just behind the oil filler, that's where you can sometimes find casting info. If you have a raised and machined section below the oil filler and just above the pan, then it's 84-up. If you have injector bosses cast into the center plate, it's 84-up. If you have a smooth top on the intermediate housing, it's 84-88, but if it has an EGR passage coming out the top, it's 89-91. The oil pan can tell us if it's 84-85 or 86-88. If there's no raised section under the oil filler for side-mount engine mounts, then it's either 74-78 or (more likely) just a bastard block with 12A irons and GSL-SE or old-school housings.
FWIW, irons and housings from pre-85 and 86-up aren't interchangable at all because the internal seals moved. It means that some parts can't be mixed and matched, although those internal seals aren't visible to us. It does narrow down the detective work, though.
01-06-08, 06:41 PM
#19
Call Atkins Rotary and ask them, the engine you have was built by David ******* (CDG) at Atkins Rotary (ARS) if I remember how to decode the numbers correctly it was the 44th engine built in 2003 the engine number is 440300 with that number Atkins rotary should be able to look up the original invoice to the customer and tell you what it was.
01-09-08, 04:50 PM
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I will see if I can get some info for you as it is too old of a # I may not have it on file anymore..
sstcabinboy : if there is any chance you have a name\shop to who I sold this engine too please let me have it and I will see what I can dig up for you on this engine..
Dan
sstcabinboy : if there is any chance you have a name\shop to who I sold this engine too please let me have it and I will see what I can dig up for you on this engine..
Dan
01-10-08, 05:34 AM
#25
CNC Mill/Lathe/EDM access
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Where's the injector bungs on the center iron? Do the S4's and newer engines have them in the same location as the SE's? I don't see them in those pics...
Is it possible that the LIM could be an SE's, and the center iron from a 12A to eliminate the injector bungs? I can't tell what's been done with the rods that connect to the aux. port sleeves, is it possible that they're plugged off? They obviously aren't wired open in the usual way and there's nothing protruding from the LIM to even suggest that they're still in there...
If I were you, I would pull that LIM and see what's happening under there before you continue with the turbo set-up. If the actuator rods are missing, make sure that the holes in the manifold where the rods should be sticking out are plugged well enough to stand the boost pressures you're planning on running. You may want to consider replacing both manifolds-the LIM with actuators and sleeves for low end torque and the RB UIM for a Holley carb. That UIM may not flow well-check it out and see, but I'd be the RB piece would be a worthwhile investment...
Is it possible that the LIM could be an SE's, and the center iron from a 12A to eliminate the injector bungs? I can't tell what's been done with the rods that connect to the aux. port sleeves, is it possible that they're plugged off? They obviously aren't wired open in the usual way and there's nothing protruding from the LIM to even suggest that they're still in there...
If I were you, I would pull that LIM and see what's happening under there before you continue with the turbo set-up. If the actuator rods are missing, make sure that the holes in the manifold where the rods should be sticking out are plugged well enough to stand the boost pressures you're planning on running. You may want to consider replacing both manifolds-the LIM with actuators and sleeves for low end torque and the RB UIM for a Holley carb. That UIM may not flow well-check it out and see, but I'd be the RB piece would be a worthwhile investment...