Finishing details of install
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: Simpsonville, SC
Finishing details of install
After a troublesome install of the XS S kit, I have some followup work to do before I can get started on the tuning. First of all, I'm planning on getting the K&N RU-2510 filter (4" diameter, 3.5" long). I tried to get a temporary filter from Advanced and the ghetto APC filter was WAY too big to even pretend to fit between the turbo and intercooler hose. I'm running the Apex'i FMIC which doesn't sit as far forward in the car as some other FMICs and with a Koyo radiator mounted behind it almost vertically, I have very little room for a filter. Has anyone gone with this setup with success?
General Questions/Concerns: First of all, I removed the rats nest and disassembled the vacuum hose bracket so I could get my manifold mount, fuel hoses, etc... I took out every solenoid including the one that had the charcoal canister vent hose going to it. Will there be a problem not having the charcoal canister venting to the manifold and instead into the air. (didn't plug up the piping running next to the other fuel lines)
I am waiting for a block off plate kit to get to my house and am curious what effect there will be right now with not having any of the AWS or other manifold solenoids connected right now. Will the sensor/switch screen of the power fc be highlighted for problems?
When I first cranked the car to check plumbing, I had a small oil leak (oil fitting to the turbo was not tight from the factory like I had assumed...) but I noticed the car would stall unless I would keep my foot on the throttle. I'm assuming this has to do with AWS and so forth not being connected. How do you eventually correct this for idle?
The insulator that goes underneath the primary fuel rail was not there when I took it off (inspecting rubber seals and injector condition). Apparently, when I replaced my motor 15k ago, I left it out. What is the chance that this will lead to problems like fuel leak, fire, or other scary problems? I'm going to replace it, just curious how dangerous it was running.
There's also an exhaust leak and I'm hoping that it is in the turbo/downpipe connection because I connected the downpipe to midpipe first then to the turbo and it didn't want to tighten on the turbo, so I'll double check that.
The single turbo conversion turned out to be a hell of a lot more work than I anticipated because it's an entire systems conversion as well as the turbo. When getting rid of all of the vacuum hoses, there are so many other issues to deal with. In retrospect, I would have just left the vacuum hoses connected and replaced the turbo and turned the hose project into a separate project by itself, and then the block off plates. Instead, my car will be off the road for a few extra days.
Richard
PS- Any T04S installed pics would be welcome!
General Questions/Concerns: First of all, I removed the rats nest and disassembled the vacuum hose bracket so I could get my manifold mount, fuel hoses, etc... I took out every solenoid including the one that had the charcoal canister vent hose going to it. Will there be a problem not having the charcoal canister venting to the manifold and instead into the air. (didn't plug up the piping running next to the other fuel lines)
I am waiting for a block off plate kit to get to my house and am curious what effect there will be right now with not having any of the AWS or other manifold solenoids connected right now. Will the sensor/switch screen of the power fc be highlighted for problems?
When I first cranked the car to check plumbing, I had a small oil leak (oil fitting to the turbo was not tight from the factory like I had assumed...) but I noticed the car would stall unless I would keep my foot on the throttle. I'm assuming this has to do with AWS and so forth not being connected. How do you eventually correct this for idle?
The insulator that goes underneath the primary fuel rail was not there when I took it off (inspecting rubber seals and injector condition). Apparently, when I replaced my motor 15k ago, I left it out. What is the chance that this will lead to problems like fuel leak, fire, or other scary problems? I'm going to replace it, just curious how dangerous it was running.
There's also an exhaust leak and I'm hoping that it is in the turbo/downpipe connection because I connected the downpipe to midpipe first then to the turbo and it didn't want to tighten on the turbo, so I'll double check that.
The single turbo conversion turned out to be a hell of a lot more work than I anticipated because it's an entire systems conversion as well as the turbo. When getting rid of all of the vacuum hoses, there are so many other issues to deal with. In retrospect, I would have just left the vacuum hoses connected and replaced the turbo and turned the hose project into a separate project by itself, and then the block off plates. Instead, my car will be off the road for a few extra days.
Richard
PS- Any T04S installed pics would be welcome!
Richard:
Sounds like you are well on your way there, I know how much time it takes to really gets things right when doing a single turbo conversion. Expecially if you are as picky about the details as I am, and it sounds like you are too. I went with the HKS TO4E kit (very similar to the XS TO4E I think, and not too far off from the S kit either in terms of placement and parts) and I dealt with little room for a filter as well, HKS provided a filter but I refuse to put that piece of foam on my car. I don't remember the K&N part # I used, but here is a thread that shows a shot of my engine bay near the bottom:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=167916
I have the Blitz fmic and it too sits a bit further back, although it still leaves the radiator at a slight angle and not totally vertical. It sounds like you will have even less room than I had to work with. Now the check valve on the end of the charcoal canister I left in place, I don't feel comfortable with the vapors from the fuel tank floating around outside the car. Now theoretically unplugging all the AWS/ACV stuff should not cause any problems, but I did not try this.. I opted for installing all the block off plates before starting the car so I can't answer that completely. It may be affecting your idle like you say, I know it took me a while of tweaking to get my idle set just right with everything removed.
I think you took the correct route though in doing everything at once, I think separating the conversion-block off plates-hoses into different projects could cause even more of a headache. Just hold tight until you get the plates and finish it up, removing all that crap really helps to narrow down the potential problems when you first get the car running. I am very glad you discovered the missing insulators, that could have caused idle problems as well with unmetered air entering.. possibly a fuel leak too.
Matt
Sounds like you are well on your way there, I know how much time it takes to really gets things right when doing a single turbo conversion. Expecially if you are as picky about the details as I am, and it sounds like you are too. I went with the HKS TO4E kit (very similar to the XS TO4E I think, and not too far off from the S kit either in terms of placement and parts) and I dealt with little room for a filter as well, HKS provided a filter but I refuse to put that piece of foam on my car. I don't remember the K&N part # I used, but here is a thread that shows a shot of my engine bay near the bottom:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=167916
I have the Blitz fmic and it too sits a bit further back, although it still leaves the radiator at a slight angle and not totally vertical. It sounds like you will have even less room than I had to work with. Now the check valve on the end of the charcoal canister I left in place, I don't feel comfortable with the vapors from the fuel tank floating around outside the car. Now theoretically unplugging all the AWS/ACV stuff should not cause any problems, but I did not try this.. I opted for installing all the block off plates before starting the car so I can't answer that completely. It may be affecting your idle like you say, I know it took me a while of tweaking to get my idle set just right with everything removed.
I think you took the correct route though in doing everything at once, I think separating the conversion-block off plates-hoses into different projects could cause even more of a headache. Just hold tight until you get the plates and finish it up, removing all that crap really helps to narrow down the potential problems when you first get the car running. I am very glad you discovered the missing insulators, that could have caused idle problems as well with unmetered air entering.. possibly a fuel leak too.
Matt
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
82streetracer
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
Aug 23, 2015 09:28 AM



