A few basic questions for a conversion project
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From: Cairns
A few basic questions for a conversion project
Hi,
Im assisting a friend with a transplant of a series 5 turbo engine into an Rx3. Excuse my lack of rotary knowledge... Some of my questions might seem pretty stupid because I am normaly a piston engine guy.
The first thing ive noticed about the series 5 engine is that there is is some polution gear on the engine that can probably be disconnected, but I'd like to know how far I can go with this...
On the turbo side of the engine above the turbo there is a series of valves etc that connect to a large hose that in turn connects to a belt driven pump, I presume this is a vacuum pump right? Once that is removed, is there a plate I can purchase somewhere to block off where this stuff comes from, or do I just make something up out of some 6mm alloy plate?
Next question.... Next to the wastegate actuator is a second actuator looking device. What does this to, and can it be removed? This thing is going to hit the chassis rail so I need to come up with some kind of work around for it.
Regarding the tune and the rest of the project I figure i'll convert it to a 300x60x60-75mm front mount for starters and just run a 9lb boost tune and a 3" exhaust. This should produce a pretty lively result power to weight considered. If there is anything else I need to consider, please let me know.
I'll be wiring in a V400 wolf ecu. I presume the series 5 engines have a propper variable resitor throttle position sensor, or do I need to use some crazy externally mounted sensor, like I did with the previous series 4 NA 13B?
See attached pics...
Cheers,
Ian
Im assisting a friend with a transplant of a series 5 turbo engine into an Rx3. Excuse my lack of rotary knowledge... Some of my questions might seem pretty stupid because I am normaly a piston engine guy.
The first thing ive noticed about the series 5 engine is that there is is some polution gear on the engine that can probably be disconnected, but I'd like to know how far I can go with this...
On the turbo side of the engine above the turbo there is a series of valves etc that connect to a large hose that in turn connects to a belt driven pump, I presume this is a vacuum pump right? Once that is removed, is there a plate I can purchase somewhere to block off where this stuff comes from, or do I just make something up out of some 6mm alloy plate?
Next question.... Next to the wastegate actuator is a second actuator looking device. What does this to, and can it be removed? This thing is going to hit the chassis rail so I need to come up with some kind of work around for it.
Regarding the tune and the rest of the project I figure i'll convert it to a 300x60x60-75mm front mount for starters and just run a 9lb boost tune and a 3" exhaust. This should produce a pretty lively result power to weight considered. If there is anything else I need to consider, please let me know.
I'll be wiring in a V400 wolf ecu. I presume the series 5 engines have a propper variable resitor throttle position sensor, or do I need to use some crazy externally mounted sensor, like I did with the previous series 4 NA 13B?
See attached pics...
Cheers,
Ian
this really should be moved to a more appropriate forum, like the 2nd gen specific forum.
Anyway, it looks like you probably don't have a series 5 engine. That actuator thing is on the series 4 cars only, it is for a sort of variable turbine geometry (twin scroll actuator) that mazda ditched on the series 5. you would have to post better pictures of the motor to determine whether it is a series 4 or a series 5 with a series 4 turbo on it for some strange reason.
The other thing on the side of the lower intake manifold is the ACV, air control valve. It is a series of solenoid valves that directs smog pump air to the intake manifold, exhaust ports, or catalytic converter. You need to block that off: http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_fc_bop.htm get the series 4 turbo II kit unless you can prove to me that you really have a series 5 engine. A series 4 would be preferable for a swap IMO, as parts are easier to find and you can retain the oil metering system if you do want to keep that. One warning: if you remove the smog pump, you will need a dual alternator pulley so that you can replace the airpump belt. otherwise you will have waterpump problems under high rpm with just a single belt running it.
I don't know much about Wolf 3D's, but the series 4 TPS would probably not work well with it, as it reads WOT with the butterflies only open maybe 30%. You should use a GM TPS or something equivalent--whatever "crazy externally mounted sensor" you were referring to. I would switch out all the other sensors to GM as well. there is the ECU water temp sensor on the back of the waterpump housing (green connector that is like a Bosch injector clip), and there is the intake air temp sensor on the throttlebody elbow, which has two spade terminals on it. Of course you should go with whatever MAP sensor the Wolf uses.
the idle air control motor ("BAC" valve) is on the side of the UIM. you could keep that if you could get the Wolf to control it, I think it is a 250hz solenoid valve. I don't know anything about Wolf 3D crank trigger settings/options, but the FC is a reluctor type crank angle sensor with 2 home teeth and 24 smaller teeth.
you won't get a "9psi tune." The factory turbo won't hold 9 psi to redline, either series 4 or 5. and both will creep boost pretty bad in the mid rpm range, especially with a 3" exhaust, although the series 5 turbo is better in that regard. you will need serious wastegate porting for a full 3" exhaust.
Anyway, it looks like you probably don't have a series 5 engine. That actuator thing is on the series 4 cars only, it is for a sort of variable turbine geometry (twin scroll actuator) that mazda ditched on the series 5. you would have to post better pictures of the motor to determine whether it is a series 4 or a series 5 with a series 4 turbo on it for some strange reason.
The other thing on the side of the lower intake manifold is the ACV, air control valve. It is a series of solenoid valves that directs smog pump air to the intake manifold, exhaust ports, or catalytic converter. You need to block that off: http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_fc_bop.htm get the series 4 turbo II kit unless you can prove to me that you really have a series 5 engine. A series 4 would be preferable for a swap IMO, as parts are easier to find and you can retain the oil metering system if you do want to keep that. One warning: if you remove the smog pump, you will need a dual alternator pulley so that you can replace the airpump belt. otherwise you will have waterpump problems under high rpm with just a single belt running it.
I don't know much about Wolf 3D's, but the series 4 TPS would probably not work well with it, as it reads WOT with the butterflies only open maybe 30%. You should use a GM TPS or something equivalent--whatever "crazy externally mounted sensor" you were referring to. I would switch out all the other sensors to GM as well. there is the ECU water temp sensor on the back of the waterpump housing (green connector that is like a Bosch injector clip), and there is the intake air temp sensor on the throttlebody elbow, which has two spade terminals on it. Of course you should go with whatever MAP sensor the Wolf uses.
the idle air control motor ("BAC" valve) is on the side of the UIM. you could keep that if you could get the Wolf to control it, I think it is a 250hz solenoid valve. I don't know anything about Wolf 3D crank trigger settings/options, but the FC is a reluctor type crank angle sensor with 2 home teeth and 24 smaller teeth.
you won't get a "9psi tune." The factory turbo won't hold 9 psi to redline, either series 4 or 5. and both will creep boost pretty bad in the mid rpm range, especially with a 3" exhaust, although the series 5 turbo is better in that regard. you will need serious wastegate porting for a full 3" exhaust.
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