the tiny walbro is working just fine, duty cycles are between 70-80% and no pressure drop through all the band...so i fully recommend it...

about the power,,, as i told before,,, my passes are in 3rd gear and my exhaust is a T3 .84,,,, why compromise the power? 'cause we race in streets more than in tracks and lag is a dagger in street racing

... but i'm pretty sure i would get 500+ hp by just switching to a .96 T4 set-up... but that wont work when racing against the 1.8 toyotas, datsun and technicas around here!!!

 

They dont know what a technica is

 

lol for the non boricuas....

 

So what about 2nd gens. What gear should they dyno in??? 3rd or fourth

 

its not about 3rd or fourth. usually 4th gear, since its 1:1, will give you a good Idea of whats going on. The other gears just go by too quick for you to get a good a/f reading or especially if your tuning..

 

4th for sure everytime

 

Technicas = Mitsu Mirage. BTW, 119mph, that's an 11 second car without a doubt. Tell Gaby and the whole Sporty crew that Mini Me and the Orlando guys say hello.

 

correct,,, also you would expect more hp at 4th since it requires more power to move the wheels on that ratio. Some tuners usually do the job in 3rd gear to decrease failure risk...

but i'm pretty confident now about my car, so next time i'll do it in 4th...

 

Sure!

 

yes i agree those figures are fine considering your using a .84. but like you say its kind of worth the compremise producing a little less power and having no lag.

BTW i import the Masterpower range to NewZealand and they supply me with 1.00 divided on request for the rotory application on the t61 that were olnly sold on ebay with .84.
Im liking your results and feed back! thanks! this is good to help advertising for me here in NZ. I can quote this sort of info to customers.
If you need a larger housing just pm me and i could probably do you a good deal.
there is .96 undividved in the t3 flange range available

 

I run a 96 undivided t4 flange...

 

Ok thx... i'll keep you informed....

.96 on T3!!! sound interesting, it could be like 250 less rpm's but 50 more ponnies at the same boost (just guessing but it should be close to that)... i might give it a try later...

 

I'm trying to post this in a new thread but is not working, so i'll post it here for now to see if i get feedback/help on this,,,
.................................................. .................................................. ...............................


The problem is my oil is not lasting more than 1K miles. I noticed it ‘cause about every 1K miles the car begins to smoke, and is because the oil wears to quick and the viscosity decrease drastically and its able to pass through the turbo seals. I also notice it because the oil pressure begins to drop. I change it and the smoke disappears and the pressure stabilizes, but just for 1K more miles. When I drain it, it looks like water and it has a strong fuel smell.

If think its been mixing somewhere. It might be the side seals but the engine is freshly rebuilt (less than 5K miles) and the compression is good. I have tried Mobil-1, Purple and Amsoil,,, all at 20W-50 …so the oil grade/quality should not be the problem.

I have been told that might be the fuel cruse map to rich and I already worked into that to see if it will extend the oil life, but I just don't see how the oil could be mixed with the fuel independently if the car is flooded at the fuel map... Is this possible?

If someone passed through this or any thoughts/ideas please let me know...

thx!

 

most probable: leaking fuel injector/s. what are you running for injectors? do you have a fuel pressure gauge? if so does it show pressure drop after you shut off the engine?

howard coleman

 

I'm running 850/1600, i have the pressure gauge but have not chk that... it shouldn't drop the pressure when you shut off engine? i think pressure should relief after shut-off since the left fuel will return to tank (or not?) ...how do you think the injectors leaking would cause the oil/fuel mix?

 

You need to look into decel fuel cut. If your injs don't turn off on decel your oil will become fuel contaminated very quickly. Long term this can lead to bearing failure(don't ask me how I know this).