did compression test today
#1
I live in an igloo
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did compression test today
I was with a friend so I could finally do one. Keep in mind that I have never done one on my car.
A little history.
-Bought the car in the summer for 1700cndn. Came with the mods you see below in my sig, and he told me that it had a brand new engine on it. He wasn't lying, there were TII housings installed so defenitly a rebuild had been done. Recently, **** if I know?
Engine misses occasionaly, very slight but noticable. Idle can't be controlled it seems at all, and there was white smoke recently pouring out of my exhaust on a cold day, and still noticable on a hot day like today.
I checked the filler cap for bubbles in the coolant, indicating blown coolant seals, and there were non while the engine was running. Honestly, Im not sure how in the hell that test was even concieved as the coolant doesn't flow very much at all in there, and yes I have a good waterpump. Maybe I should have waited for the engine to warm up with the cap off? i don't know.
ANYWAYS
Pulled out the leading front plug, snugged in the comp tester plugged and hooked it up. Friend turned her over while I held in the gauge release button and she bounced like this
85-90-85
Around there, couldn't tell exactly. Every time it bounced I could here air coming out of the button that I was pressing, I think that gave me an inaccurate reading! So I left the button in, and it bounced as high as 105 wich I was pleased with. So one rotor face has good compression, and if the above numbers are accurate its not looking good.
Hooked up the rear leading, got my friend to turn her over while I was holding in the button, heres what I got
70-65-65
LMAO, man this thing is fucked up. Again I could here air leaking out of the button that I was pressing, so im still not sure if thats accurate. If It is, this will explain the missing and just overall shitty idle.
So in retaliation, I broke out the TB cleaner, its got a lubricant in it, and I was running premix anyways so im sure this was totally safe. Fed the tip into the atomization vacuum line and gave her a high rev and started pumping. I shot half the can in there and it was running real rough, but I held on. Let it off and it seemed to run slightly smoother, missing was less frequent. Reved it up again and shot the rest of the can in there, took about 5 minutes of squrting but after she was done it was pretty smooth. A miss here and there, but better than before.
Anyways im posting this for some advice here. Did I do the check right? I mean air leaking out of the release button doesn't throw off the accuracy of the numbers? how should I handle this?
Im waiting for the engine to cool down a bit before I go out and do it again, so throw up some advice for good ol brent. thx guys!~
A little history.
-Bought the car in the summer for 1700cndn. Came with the mods you see below in my sig, and he told me that it had a brand new engine on it. He wasn't lying, there were TII housings installed so defenitly a rebuild had been done. Recently, **** if I know?
Engine misses occasionaly, very slight but noticable. Idle can't be controlled it seems at all, and there was white smoke recently pouring out of my exhaust on a cold day, and still noticable on a hot day like today.
I checked the filler cap for bubbles in the coolant, indicating blown coolant seals, and there were non while the engine was running. Honestly, Im not sure how in the hell that test was even concieved as the coolant doesn't flow very much at all in there, and yes I have a good waterpump. Maybe I should have waited for the engine to warm up with the cap off? i don't know.
ANYWAYS
Pulled out the leading front plug, snugged in the comp tester plugged and hooked it up. Friend turned her over while I held in the gauge release button and she bounced like this
85-90-85
Around there, couldn't tell exactly. Every time it bounced I could here air coming out of the button that I was pressing, I think that gave me an inaccurate reading! So I left the button in, and it bounced as high as 105 wich I was pleased with. So one rotor face has good compression, and if the above numbers are accurate its not looking good.
Hooked up the rear leading, got my friend to turn her over while I was holding in the button, heres what I got
70-65-65
LMAO, man this thing is fucked up. Again I could here air leaking out of the button that I was pressing, so im still not sure if thats accurate. If It is, this will explain the missing and just overall shitty idle.
So in retaliation, I broke out the TB cleaner, its got a lubricant in it, and I was running premix anyways so im sure this was totally safe. Fed the tip into the atomization vacuum line and gave her a high rev and started pumping. I shot half the can in there and it was running real rough, but I held on. Let it off and it seemed to run slightly smoother, missing was less frequent. Reved it up again and shot the rest of the can in there, took about 5 minutes of squrting but after she was done it was pretty smooth. A miss here and there, but better than before.
Anyways im posting this for some advice here. Did I do the check right? I mean air leaking out of the release button doesn't throw off the accuracy of the numbers? how should I handle this?
Im waiting for the engine to cool down a bit before I go out and do it again, so throw up some advice for good ol brent. thx guys!~
#2
I live in an igloo
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: calgary alberta
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Please delete this post, it will be posted again in the second gen section. Sorry guys.
Last edited by BlaCkPlaGUE; 03-01-05 at 07:31 PM.
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